solver

I tried to do this without using Pro only tools, but as I don't have Suite, not sure if I did.

Achieving this type of roof has been dealt with before, and there may even be a KB article on it.

The key is thinking about the space as 2 rooms.

Draw a wall (Room Divider) under the ridge. Raise the ceiling height of the rear part to whatever the back wall is. 

Adjust the pitch of the rear roof so that the ridge is in the correct place. I used 4.5/12 with an 84" rough ceiling.

Set the roof overhang to 2" on the rear gable end after breaking the gable end wall in the center.

To get the rear part of the gable roof overhang, on the 1st floor, draw a shallow bump out on the back half of the wall. Set the end wall to Full Gable and the front wall to High Shed. Set the walls to Balloon Through Ceiling, and adjust heights to get the roof aligned. Change the overhang so it aligns with the front part of the roof.

Change the walls to Room Divider on the bump out so they don't show.

Room Specifications are for the bump out space.

click on the wall, open wall specification, click roof    remove the D and change the pitch.

That will also change the gable generated via the Gable Roof Line tool.

The gable generated via the Gable Roof Line tools takes its pitch from the main roof, and cannot be changed independently.

The gable generated via the Gable Roof Line tools takes its pitch from the main roof, and cannot be changed independently.

Gable/Roof Lines

The Gable/Roof Line tool can be used to automatically generate a gable above the bearing wall of a hip roof plane. It is best used in situations where roof directives in walls are not possible. For example:

• If a Wall Break would be required in the same location as a door or window;

• Where a wall is not present, such as across the front of an alcove;

• Over a Bay, Box, or Bow Window. 

What is the LawB10 method?

Make the front cabinets 8 to 10" high adjust to the rear cabinets ie: cabinet height 10" floor to bottom 26".

go to the library click millwork> balusters and newels.

adjust the cooktop cabinet so that the Baluster fits the way you want it

for the hood use wall cabinets

How does any of this relate to the island?

Custom countertop, soffit, legs from library.

Just create a copy of an existing wall -- name it something descriptive, then delete one layer of drywall. Done.

Why not just define a new wall type. It's simple as you would be using a copy of an existing wall.

You can turn off moldings on a per room basis, but not drywall.

Good questions for tech support. See the Home Designer or Chief Architect websites.

Are you auto building the roof, because it does not build clean for me.

Clearly the ceiling finish, but where is it coming from?

Walls don't align because the main layers do not align. Walls were drawn in opposite directions, so they are reversed from one another.

Fixing the wall poly line gets the door back, but there is a gap in the floor.

See the image where I painted the lower floor walls green.

See the images. Shed roof on ground floor.

Post the plan file so we can have a look.

As for getting rid of the double top plate sitting on the rake, here is my theory.

That gable end is a wall to the software, and walls are framed with a double top plate. I don't believe you can change that on a per wall basis.

Do you have Wall Coverings?

Also, see the Knowledge Base.

I agree -- the materials list is lacking. 

I'm curious about how you would like to see 2x material specified. Standard length studs are easy, although the program would need to know how you frame things like corners,  and where walls join in a T.

What about top and bottom plates? And all the short pieces like your gable end studs, cripples, and miscellaneous like blocking for drywall, kitchen cabinets, grab bars etc.

If the program could report the exact length for each piece of material, then to be useful, each non standard length piece would need to be assigned to a specific piece of lumber.

I know the program could do better, not sure if best is realistic.

Robert -- What are you talking about? 

If you have a specific question about your project, it's best to start a new thread.

There are some really good videos on YouTube and there is the Knowledge Base with how to on many issues.

Also, there is the internal Help system.

If that is a room, and Roof Over This Room is checked, you should get a roof if Auto Build Roofs is on.

You are not required to build a foundation. Just specify your floor structure as it would be built.

Looks good Karen -- thanks for the update.

I deleted all the stuff on the second floor and changed a few settings and the roof seemed to build OK.

Try that, then add back things until you see a problem.

Check Default for floor structure. Rebuild foundation.

Also, every room that is a slab, should have that checked. Somewhere you are 4" off for your floors. I found it, but forgot where it was. When you rebuild the foundation, the walls are 4" above it.

I don't do foundations much so someone else would be better qualified to respond.

I changed the floor definition in the rooms above, using a Room Divider to create rooms as needed.

New Harmony - Eric A.plan

Have you followed the tutorial?

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00359/automatically-building-the-basic-roof-styles.html#Gambrel

Don't understand what you are trying to do, or what is wrong with what you have done.

Not sure  why this happened, but I deleted and redrew the walls and they look OK now.

I've had similar things happen in my own plans.