solver

Inverted Wedge is the shape you want. I knew about that, and even placed one in plan, but failed to see how it resized. 

Taking a second look, now I do. You vary the shape by dragging a side, not the corner.

I always learn something from doing it the hard way, anyway.

Discovered this awhile ago, and kept forgetting to share.

Sometimes you will have gaps, especially where you have manually dragged a wall up or down. 

Setting one or more walls as Attic Walls seems to heal gaps.

This works for interior and exterior walls.

Setting the triangle shaped wall to Attic Wall, results in the second image.

Like the spiral stair. Space saving.

If you have the floorspace, like a 2 car garage, consider using tape to layout a plan or two. Ideally a bit of furniture and cardboard for cabinets will give you an idea of space.

Older homes often started with an outhouse, then added on a bathroom. Having a downstairs bath outside the 16x16 space would free up some floor area, and give the exterior a bit more character.

2x4 construction with exterior foam will give you a few extra inches inside, and a well enough insulated wall.

So much work for something so simple   Someone please tell us how easy this is.

I'm sure there MUST be an easier way. I have attached the plan file so you can have a look for yourself.

I did not do things in this order, so if something does not work, try again.

1) Extend the stair wall out so that it will cover the gap. Place a break at the corner where you extended the wall from.

2) Change the new wall (create a new wall type) to be solid paper. One layer, paper, 4.5" thick. Set it to Attic Wall. Realign with the stair wall.

3) In an elevation view, select the wall and drag it up forming a triangle.

4) Draw a Ceiling Plane at the same angle as the stair, covering the bottom of the exposed stair. You will need to lower it. Drag it over to cover the bottom of the triangle.

5) In a camera view, paint the new wall drywall so it blends in. Play with everything to get it looking correct.

Setting to Attic Wall for some reason makes the program heal the walls -- try it with and without that setting.

Making the new wall solid paper (other materials may work) lets the ceiling plane extend to its edge. If the new wall is drywall, the ceiling plane stops 1/2" shy, creating a visual problem.

Stair Cover Up.plan

Structural ridge. Glulam, PSL, LSL, solid, built up.

How the roof is tied into the porch roofs may also impact this issue.

Open Help and search "joist direction". This should get you going on that issue.

As for the wall. You could turn off the display of Attic Walls, and if you uncheck Invisible on the ones you changed, they won't show either,

Of course, this turns of all Attic Walls, so the Attic level will be blank.

This will not turn them off in 3D views.

Good ideas and plan Jo Ann.

Here is my twist on your idea.

Welcome Pat.

It would help me (us) if you were a bit more specific about a few things.

you will see that there is a shed (skillion) roof on the east and another on west side. I manually drew the roofs and auto walls were generated above the existing wall: they then show up on the floor 2 plan.

East and West are not shown on your plan, so you might use right/left/top/bottom as viewing on screen.

What existing wall were the auto walls generated above? 

Using a program that lets you write/circle things etc on an image often conveys more information than a written description. Paint on a PC is one program, but far from the best.

One of my early frustrations with the software was having to tap the spacebar to exit from whatever mode I was in. So much can be done with the mouse only.

I upgraded to a mouse with programmable buttons and set one to send a spacebar keystroke. Problem solved.

Have you considered how you will condition the space? 

Folding sinks are available as are toilet tank sinks. There are also plenty of small sinks that could fit in a corner, for example. Might need to look at RV suppliers for some things as they have generally scaled down versions.

Was going to suggest lowered ceiling with open joist. I think your primary focus should be air sealing between floors (exterior walls and roof too), and unsure about insulation being needed there. 

Winders don't work well on a narrow stair, unless the landing area is expanded. My stairs show a 9" tread, 8" rise and are 2' wide. Winders as shown in my 2nd image above are best.

Consider moving the landing and/or upper flight of stairs outside the 16x16 space. 

Thinking about the design process. I often design from the inside out, especially when there are few constraints on the exterior -- need to conform to setbacks, height restrictions etc. While trying to design within the 16' square is a good exercise, a goal of staying within the 256 sq ft might result in a better layout.

1 more.

All the information is in the help system. Suggest you start there. Search for "stairs".

There is also the Knowledge Base where you will find information on many topics.

Moving stairs and kitchen. Allows access to most of under stair space. Water heater under landing, drawers etc under lower flight.

Did everyone see post #44?

This isn't a real house. 

Park Model homes have some good, compact floor plans. You might get some ideas looking at the ones with lofts. They all have small stairs leading up, but the loft is not high enough to stand in -- unless you are 3' tall.

You would need to allow for headroom over the stairs, but reversing the runs so the longer one is on the bottom, opens up some additional possibilities.

I'm also showing exterior doors as out swinging. Only real problem is if you want screened doors. I would to keep all the bugs out  .

Clearance under stairs. Stairs can be built to save space, especially smaller ones like this. no need for large stringers hanging down below.

Plan with kitchen and bath reversed. Trying to use all the space under the stairs. Room for water heater left of refrigerator. Stairs are 2' wide and fairly steep with an 8" rise. In my local, stairs leading to space less than 200 sq ft don't need to meet code.

To manage your attachments (images), click your user name at the top of the page, click My Settings, click Manage Attachments on the left.

Is there a reason your images are not showing the bedroom floor?

Don't forget Glass House view if available. This one shows a small office and half bath.

Winders.

Consider 2x6 floor joist. You don't need to span the entire space.

If you would not mind, it would be interesting to know where this will be built. Just a general idea.

I've been following the tiny/small house movement for some time, and while I believe the tiny, built on a trailer places are far too small, small is still good.

You are understanding the problem with stairs in a small house, also the issue of the upper floor being warmer than the lower. The two reasons I've moved away from a multi-floor living space in my designs.

Have you considered alternating tread stairs? They help solve the space issue, and after a short adjustment period, are said to feel much like a regular stair. One of these days, I'm going to build a short set and try them myself.

Here is my Stair Dialog. Control over width, rise, run etc. I can also drag the stair to make it narrower, wider etc in plan view.

You could add winders at the lower landing.

I would add the porches to your plan too. You will need to be able to do sections of the structure to check for clearances.

As for insulation, have you considered a REMOTE or PERSIST house. Both methods place all the wall insulation outside the structure using ridged foam. You could do (from in to out) exposed framing, T&G sheathing,  insulation, then your exterior siding. Giving a rustic, cabin look, but still very well insulated.

The bath under the stairs could have a reduced ceiling height. The top landing could be a step or two down from the bedroom floor. You don't need full depth joist there either. 2x4 will work for the short span and give you a bit more room.

OK -- now I understand.

Are you sure that's what you wanted, because is doesn't look right -- no offense intended.

Could you post an image showing the roof where it's shape is clearer?

Start a new thread if you like -- I have some more to post and will wait for the new thread.

I added a dormer to your plan yesterday and was going to post, but as you said, where do you draw the line on making things bigger?

Start here.

There are also videos on YouTube, and the Knowledge Base, and the help within the program.