solver
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Everything posted by solver
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You will find that turning off the display of all the extra items -- plants, furniture etc will make working on the model faster and easier. Remove the Upper Pitch setting from the garage gable wall and change the pitch on the right side wall from 8 to 3.
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Once you get the frame like you want it, select all the pieces, right click and choose Make Architectural Block. This will group all the parts together so they may be moved as one. Read up on the Transform Replicate tool. Very powerful tool for moving things. Also, Point-to-Point Move may help. You could use a soffit for the glass too. And if you know the size, it might help to do this outside the bath. Block everything together and then move into position.
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You could use soffits. A bit tedious, but doable.
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How about posting the plan file. Close it first. Zip it if you can.
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The only thing that should be checked on the Roof Panel for the garage end wall is Full Gable. It looks like you might have Upper Pitch checked.
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Start a new plan, just one room with a bumpout. Set the 2 end walls of the main space to gable. Change the overhang setting in the walls I've shown above. Build the roof and see how it works. My guess is after trying various settings, some need to be cleared and then reset.
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Make sure you change the overhang on all the walls.
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You can make the bumpout a room, then uncheck Roof Over This Room. You will need to fill in the missing ceiling with something like a soffit.
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See if this gets you started.
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Wish I had an answer, because I've noticed the same. Have you downloaded the Benjamin Moore and Behr catalogs. You will never get an accurate paint color representation on a computer, so I just pick a color that looks like what I want, and then choose the actual paint.
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Agree with Jo Ann. I'd use slabs. Do you have a Hole in Slab tool?
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Looks OK to me. See this article https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00897/troubleshooting-3d-display-problems.html
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Took longer to change the finishes, add doors and windows etc, than to draw the structure. I built 2 floors, and auto built a roof at the lower pitch. Pulled those roof panes back, drew in steeper roof planes off the first floor walls manually. Added return walls to the 2nd floor, pulled the roof over the "dormer".
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On a PC you would uninstall an application, not simply move it to the trash. Not sure on a Mac.
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You have referenced a Chief Architect article. If you are using one of the Home Designer titles, you may not be able to do this. If you are using Chief Premier, you are in the wrong forum -- see https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/ I'm unfamiliar with that type of construction, but assume the bond beam height will dictate the dimension of the lower wall. It would also depend on the ceiling and roof structures and how they connect with the wall.
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If the 2nd floor is finished, it's not an attic. Make it a true second floor. I would not call that a dormer, and once you have a 2nd floor, should be easy to create manually.
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Worked fine for me, but I'm using a 2018 version. My guess is that symbol was made in the latest version of SketchUp which is not supported in Pro 2017.
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Because there is no symbol imported.
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If you will provide a link to the SKP file, others may test the procedure. The SKP may have been created in a newer version of SketchUp, not supported by Pro 2107.
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Note: If you are using an older version of Home Designer, then you may not be able to import the most recent version of the SKP file, so consider downloading an older version if one is available. It may be that the SKP is too new for your version. Link to the SKP file and I'll give it a try.
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Home Designer 2018 Landscape Webinar
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The Knowledge Base is always a good place to look. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00888/importing-3d-symbols.html
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Thanks I don't do much with terrains, and I don't have Architectural to play with, but here is something that may help. These are Garden Beds, numbered in the order they were drawn. Same items, except I made #2 thicker (and higher) than #1.
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I'm curious, and simply wanting to understand how others look at the software. Did you consider painting the casing (and if needed, lintel) with a brick from the library. Also, why an orthographic camera? I don't think I've ever used any of the orthographic views.
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Notice I've drawn an almost complete round -- just a small straight section to fill in the gap. Try searching this forum for some tips on round rooms. I remember this being discussed, but it's been a while. I'd start by drawing a CAD circle for a guide, then drawing in the walls. The roof may not build cleanly. In my case, there are a bunch of extra roof planes generated, but they can just be deleted.
