djkiwi

House numbers and fascia color

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DJ,

How did you add the png file to 'my library'?   Did you add it as a new 'material'???

Hi Jo_Ann.

 

Yes, ok so I got the material in but what I'm getting is 3073 repeating itself. I've attached a picture.

post-768-0-80228100-1411715915_thumb.jpg

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DJ,

While in 3d view, select the object  (that you placed the number on)  with the rainbow tool.

In the window that pops up, choose 'stretch to fit'.

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Not sure what you mean by the "blank" Wall Panel , if it imported correctly you should see what I see (image) but it maybe a 2014 version issue so keep it handy for when you get Pro next month as it works in 2015 as can be seen.

 

post-25-0-37948700-1411758201_thumb.jpg

resized to 24x96  Panel and reveal colour change be changed as desired.

post-25-0-53050600-1411759688_thumb.jpg

 

You could forego the Reveal pieces to save money , it will get costly if you plan to do a lot with 2ft wide panels ,or is that just a "feature" for the front wall? ..  will you really notice the reveal if it is the same colour as the wall ?

 

I am familiar with tamlyn extrusions from the US Trade Mags I get but a lot of products like them aren't available here. Vertically joints can be butted over roll flashing (over rainscreen) and horizontal joints can be done with simple a "Z" flashing , it is fairly cheap to have these custom bent with a doubled safety edge though they will give a slightly different look obviously.

 

some vertical panels going in , excuse my Helper's appearance...

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Not sure what you mean by the "blank" Wall Panel , if it imported correctly you should see what I see (image) but it maybe a 2014 version issue so keep it handy for when you get Pro next month as it works in 2015 as can be seen.

 

attachicon.gifWall Panel-library.JPG

resized to 24x96  Panel and reveal colour change be changed as desired.

attachicon.gifWall Panel-resized.JPG

 

You could forego the Reveal pieces to save money , it will get costly if you plan to do a lot with 2ft wide panels ,or is that just a "feature" for the front wall? ..  will you really notice the reveal if it is the same colour as the wall ?

 

I am familiar with tamlyn extrusions from the US Trade Mags I get but a lot of products like them aren't available here. Vertically joints can be butted over roll flashing (over rainscreen) and horizontal joints can be done with simple a "Z" flashing , it is fairly cheap to have these custom bent with a doubled safety edge though they will give a slightly different look obviously.

 

some vertical panels going in , excuse my Helper's appearance...

attachicon.gifGarage_Construction (31).JPG

attachicon.gifGarage_Construction (32).JPG

attachicon.gifGarage_Construction (35).JPG

attachicon.gifGarage_Construction (39).JPG

 

Hi Mick. Unfortunately it wouldn't import as anything but a blank.

 

Thanks for posting those shots. Nice work. I intend to build my rainscreen system exactly the same way. Intrigued as to the wood and dimensions of your vertical runners and the vapor barrier you used?

 

You are right about the cost of those aluminum reveals.  I also have some samples of easy trim reveals. These appear to be higher quality than Tamlyn but are also 50% more expensive. 

 

http://easytrimreveals.com/

 

The problem is panels by themselves can look a little cheap to me and look good broken up. I was going to put a bumpout on the front of the house to achieve this but I'm right on the setback line. Here are a few pictures. First one is anodized and second is same color.

 

http://www.houzz.com/photos/2785264/Franklin-Street-Residence-Southwest-Corner-modern-exterior-denver

http://www.houzz.com/photos/4872142/Napier-Street-Barrie-Ontario-modern-exterior-toronto

 

I think I may just leave a gap between the panels with bug screen and let the rainscreen take care of the moisture. I'm also thinking of adding a 1/2" of foam board as a thermal break but will then need to deal with window depths.

 

The other option is something like this where they ripped 4 x 8 hardie into 2' panels but lapped. I spoke to the architect who designed this house and she wasn't a fan of the aluminum reveals either because of expense. 

 

http://www.houzz.com/photos/3564721/Juanita-Residence-contemporary-exterior-seattle

http://www.houzz.com/photos/3564725/Juanita-Residence-contemporary-exterior-seattle

 

Cheers

DJ

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DJ,

While in 3d view, select the object  (that you placed the number on)  with the rainbow tool.

In the window that pops up, choose 'stretch to fit'.

Thanks Jo_Ann. It seemed to work ok now for some reason and never duplicated it.

 

Cheers

DJ

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For the vertical rain barrier strips I use 1/2" treated ply cut into 1 3/4"-2"  strips  , locally most suppliers have them in stock so no ripping needed, there is recycled plastic strips for horizontal work , they are a bit like honey comb in that there are holes so any water will drain thru. For Shingles usually what looks like 3/8 thick Pot Scrubber material

 

http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=8&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CEoQFjAH&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.mtcc1170.com%2Fimages%2FBCRainScreen.pdf&ei=6jQmVJLHC6jLigLr2YDgDQ&usg=AFQjCNG9SkjF8HxVm1RmnnQr-LKEGiIlXw

 

http://www.jlconline.com/coastal-contractor/best-practice-wall-shingles.aspx

 

I use 2 layers of 30 min Bldg Paper with half roll laps usually , never been a fan of tyvek/house wrap myself ( see PDF link above.)

 

I used Roll Flashing behind each panel joint (like a Soaker)  and bedded the panels onto a continuous bead of Big Stretching caulking , also sealing the joint between the sheets , but you could space the panels with a 1/2"-3/4" reveal too and expose the Alum. roll flashing ,which would give you a shallow reveal in the vertical plane , horizontally you need the 1/2" Z-Flashing seen on the Napier Street House on Houzz you linked too. My sheetmetal guy bends these for me and its pretty economical....but is a different look to the Reveals , though you could limit that work to the Front façade ( Curb Appeal ) and go cheaper elsewhere. If doing it yourself it maybe cheaper of course but all those reveals/panels add a lot of labour too as does exposed fasteners.

 

I am surprise the Wall Panel imported at all , usually you just get a error about it being made for a "newer version" and it doesn't import but it will when you get Pro as X6 is the same "version" as 2015 titles.

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Thanks Mick. It will be my first time doing a rain screen so the ideas are appreciated. Part of the challenge with this house is it's on a corner lot so curb appeal is on two sides of the house instead of one so consistency is important. 

 

Cheers

DJ

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Hi guys, I'm still having problems with colors and realized it's not the lighting after all. For example I've applied Benjamin moore iron mountain to the front (around and below the windows). The picture shows the front almost black whereas you can see the inset from the catalog as gray. Also I've attached a link to the color in BM which is also clearly gray. I'm noting most dark grays I select appear nearly black.

 

I wondering if anyone else sees this as black as well and/or has had a similar problem. I'm thinking I've got some settings screwed up somewhere. I've attached the plan as well which shows the color as iron mountain.

 

http://www.benjaminmoore.com/en-us/paint-color/ironmountain

 

also here is a picture of "iron gray"

 

http://www.houzz.com/photos/1263396/Bethesda-Mid-Century-Addition-Renovation-contemporary-exterior-dc-metro

 

Cheers

DJ

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I still suspect lighting. See images -- in one, wall is shadowed, other it's lit.

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Thanks Eric. I see what you mean. I played around with the angles and tilt etc and you are right. I was able to get a color that accurately resembles the swatch.

 

Cheers

DJ

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Hi Mick. I played around with the reveals a bit. By increasing the hardie board size to standard 5 x 10 and/or 4 x 8 it makes the front "less busy" plus keeps the cost of the reveals down. I'm estimating the trim will cost around $250 for the two sides as shown in the picture. I'm still not sure whether I'll do anodized reveals or primed and the same color as the siding. I'd like to do Milgard or Eagle aluminum windows but the problem is not many aluminum windows meet energy code in Washington State. The ones that do use Cardinal 366 glass or triple pane glass making the glass too dark, too expensive or both of the above. 

 

Because this house is on a corner lot it effectively has two frontages meaning curb appeal needs to be considered from both sides.

 

Thanks again for the ideas.

 

Cheers

DJ

 

ps. If you are building the rainscreen and there is no window trim used (modern look) and the siding butts up to the window edge do you normally just thicken the vertical runner (barrier strips used)? 

 

 

 

 

 

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1st impression is the front wall looks a little to much like a "face" to me , i'd be inclined to split it into 3 sections ,perhaps using a 10ft sheet centred and then going out either side , you may need to do it anyway as my tape measure shows that wall as 20'1" , so the extra reveal will give you more to play with too.

 

Ali Windows can't be used here either , I actually use a lot of Jeldwen Windows out of Tacoma here, mostly Vinyl.  However although not seen in the pics on that same "Studio" above we used Ali Wood Clad windows which are still acceptable though definitely more expensive.

 

Most of the places I work on are more traditional styles so usually have wide trims around the windows so yes we double or triple up the rain screen to support them and siding as needed but usually leaving a gap between of 3/8 or more ( water can easily bridge a 1/4" gap) so water will still drain to the bottom.

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Hi Guys, I'm wondering if there is a way to adjust overhangs. For example, the following picture shows an overhang of 6 inches. 

 

http://www.houzz.com/photos/2959478/View-Ridge-Residence-contemporary-kitchen-seattle

 

So when I set the countertop overhang in home designer suite at 6 inches it sets 6 inches for the front and the back. I'm not seeing any setting so you can set the front to say 1" and the back to say 6". Also how do you set the side cabinet color (currently showing as fir) to the same color as the countertop color (white), same as picture? Maybe there is a workaround to these?

 

Thanks in advance

DJ

post-768-0-91223100-1412532038_thumb.jpg

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A search should bring up the info you need.

 

A soffit or slab work to create a custom counter top.

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The Overhang shown is actually 12" DJ , perhaps more though the question answered below pic says 12" ( 6" is not enough to sit under) 

 

you can use a Slab or a Soffit  or even a cabinet partition set to the countertop colour to make the waterfall end

 

Use back to back cabinets for the island and make the doors "panels" or "blank" if you don't want doors on the seat side, then you should be able to control the countertop overhang or

 

You can also place a Slab or Soffit as Eric suggested , set to the counter colour

 

and once you have Pro you will have custom countertops too so it wont be an issue as any shape is possible.

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Thanks guys. That soffit tool is pretty powerful and did the job. Mick you are right I put 6" overhang whereas I meant to write 12". All good now.

 

One other thing I've noticed is imported materials seem pretty inaccurate. For example I saved a swatch of the vg fir cupboard doors from these cabinets. 

 

http://www.houzz.com/photos/2959478/View-Ridge-Residence-contemporary-kitchen-seattle

 

Then I applied it to my doors. You can see the result on the double doors to the upper right of the fridge. As you can see it's not very accurate. Seems a common occurrence for me at least. 

 

Cheers

DJ

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Hi Mick. I've tried to get rid of the "face" as suggested. Also found this great gray color from Benjamin Moore HC 166 Kendall Charcoal for the Hardie panels. Also my wife doesn't like white exterior windows so I've changed them to a darker bronze. The green door is now under review with the new changes. 

 

I'm not sure if you are familiar with the Andersen 100 series windows but they are quite modern looking and made of Fibrex (wood and vinyl combo). The warranty is only 10 years but they seem to be good value windows. 

 

See this review by Matt Risinger

 

http://mattrisinger.com/andersen-100-series-windows-review/

 

Also interesting install video

 

 

The other thing I'm thinking is moving away from clear cedar on the front right of the house and changing to smooth lap instead (mainly for maintenance reasons) color to be determined. 

 

Cheers

DJ

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The Fir colour maybe off due to lighting ?  if find HD is pretty finicky on lighting and it can take some playing around, for interiors i'd love an option just to turn ALL lights on when needed.

 

Andersen isn't here , they are US only I think but have a good Rep. , have had for years , I see there stuff in FHB Mag. , I thin Chief has/had a Andersen Library for some versions of the software.

 

you could use hardiplank on the right side and use Clear cedar as a feature panel above and below the window, don't think I have pics of that though.

 

I prefer the new look on the left but try centering the middle panel and align the panels on the gable above with them and see what you think.

 

M.

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Hi guys. I hope all is well and everyone had a great thanksgiving! 

 

I've been working through some budget numbers on my plan and had a couple of questions on the suite generated materials list and prices. The first picture shows a section of the plan that shows two bedrooms that will be built in an attached carport.  It has a roof already but will need to build a subfloor using joists that will span right to left spanning about 14 feet. The second picture shows the materials list for this area.

 

The problem is when I generate the materials list it's giving me odd things like 40 foot joists. I did try cut list and buy list etc. Plus I'm not sure why it says 2 x 12' whereas I'm hoping to use 2 x 10 joists. I'm not sure if defaults can be set for this.  I'd like to see say 40 x 14 foot floor joists etc. I'm wondering how other people are using this materials list or there are other options I'm not seeing or whether I should bother with it for lumber. Still on suite right now but wondering if pro had any other features that may help.

 

Thanks

DJ

 

 

 

 

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You might want to start a new thread with a more descriptive title. You will often get better responses this way, and it makes it easier for future searchers to find information.

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DJ, Home Designer Suite (all HD and Chief Architect premier software too) is merely a mechanical device that tabulates based upon how you set it to tabulate and it measures how descretely well you built the 3D model (plan file). It does not have opinions, it does not take care of our errors or mistakes, it merely tabulates what you put there and how you put it there. If you did it wrong or in error, then the resulting materials lists will be wrong and error ridden. HD Suite is not, basically an estimation program, it is only a 3D modeling program that tabulates what you did and how you did it.

 

DJP

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sounds like you may have the joist direction wrong perhaps ,and as far as I remember Suite only allows 2x12 joists unlike Pro where you can specify what you want/need.

 

Personally however I do not find the Materials List helpful as the model must be built EXACTLY as you intend to build it and it has a number of errors which if you search here you will find other threads about the Materials list problems.

 

M.

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