y-g-m-n

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Everything posted by y-g-m-n

  1. I Set them at 0 since I have the cabinets up against the wall and there is no room for an overhang. IF the back is exposed and out in open it would depend. but 1" is pretty much the standard overhang around where live. Now is there seating? like an island or peninsula? Then knee space rules dictate how much it should be and that is governed by height. See this - and peeps need to read it and follow it else you can get a goofy kitchen you end up hating: Basically, a free version of important rules to follow from Better Homes and Garden: Fundamental Kitchen Design Guidelines to Know Before You Remodel (bhg.com) And then the rule body National Kitchen & Bath Association: NKBA
  2. ONe trick is to insert a FLAT ceiling plane in those rooms you want at the desired lower height This should hold the roof flat and one height while also giving you the lower ceiling height. Might want to turn off THIS ROOM HAS FLAT CEILING to open it up to attic above this new ceiling plane. I am sure there is another way by setting the each room's ceiling height that is not DEFAULT to whatever you want and then there are some controls to raise wall heights to make roof soffit/fascia all one height - But I have not done that so I am no help with what to click on this method other then check your HELP screens
  3. are you sure it is not a shadow? to find out color of jambs a little trick I picked up is click on the Eye dropper thing next to the spray paint can on main tool bar. Put the tip on the item you are interested in and then look down at bottom of screen it tells you the color you are hovering over.
  4. SO layered Dimensions. one for each plan sheet That would be cool
  5. have you looked at the option page for the wall specification? STRUCTURE TAB FRAMING SECTION - At bottom Then hit HELP and it will explain it all. See screen shot.
  6. What gives with stairs? your picture does not show stairs but my guess is the underside of roof?
  7. well you could always go into the defaults settings and start changing them to what you want from the other templates. See the "style" is just a pre-set for the defaults - sets cabinet door& drawer type, flooring, wall colors, exterior wall siding, fixture color etc. Once you start and choose one of HD style that plans defaults get set and you are stuck with it unless you make changes to defaults.
  8. only thing I will say is when they are blocks for some reason it becomes a PIA to locate things using dimensions as you lose all the snap points and for some reason it sometimes changes the dimensions. Example you have cabinet that is 24wide and 1 " countertop overhand on sides. so width should be 24+2 = 26" Well make it block and then click so it shows temp dim of width and it will put all sorts of crazy things but hardly ever the 26" you expect. I have seen where you get the ~ in front denoting it is not a true number exact to 1/16" so it thinks this 26" cabinet is now say 26.04"
  9. Kohler Library has several Just go to your library search bar and type APRON SINK hit return and presto a bunch of them will show up. The library search is an amazing tool
  10. Crap I remember how to do this. Click on cabinet and turn it into an architectural BLOCK and then fillers go away. This is how I make bookcases - use a full height and open front w/shelves, dimensions and molding etc to my liking and then turn it into block. Bammmmmmm now it acts like piece of furniture except you cannot modify it anymore unless you explode it and tweak it and then block it again. Try it!
  11. I do not think there is a way in the Home Designer series but I bet the Full CA versions does. If you look at help it calls it CABINET FILLERS and tells you how they are automatically created between cab and wall and or cabinet within 3" Can I ask why you would want this gap on each side? My wife would scream bloody murder about the dirt and dust bunnies back in this gap she cannot clean out and would demand it be sealed off.
  12. Maybe make a simple plan that just has the exterior walls and foundation and upload as zip file.
  13. So you want the RIDGE to be one long continuous over entire width of house? OR you just want gable over garage?
  14. ONly shows up in PLAN view are you looking in PLAN view?
  15. you need to read about why attic walls are made. but to draw the outline then use the REFERENCE FLOOR DISPLAY feature which shows the floor above or below (you choose) in a funky red color so you know where it is. Then you can draw walls over the top and click one of them icon thingys to align it, or for your case just get close and draw the room divider around the exterior walls where the attic space resides. you need to play more and have the help screen open so when you click on a command or function or whatever the help screen keeps up with you and displays HELP info which all in all is pretty darn good at explaining software and plans. PLAY more.
  16. omg Go to floor plan and A level. goto wall drop down and click on Room Divider. now start on outside wall and go all around attic until you come back to where you started, Now it is a ROOM so click in the attic space and open up this room and make sure EXCLUDE fro livig area checked and then go to structre page and make sure FLAT ceiling over room is not checked so it goes to undersideof rafterers. Then close and I would reopen this page again and read volume on that first page, as they have said above you need to make it room not an attic.
  17. normally foundation is its own drawing and designed by engineer and approved by local building office Normally 3d views are to show the one paying what she will look like
  18. stem wall is part of foundation above footers that the Walls are built upon. It is not a separate item.
  19. Searrch in help for PONY WALL. It allows one type of wall on bottom and another on the top portion you decide what is used for top and bottom and the height of bottom. You decide how they should align and what you see in plan view. Best to align main layer as that would be the stud wall. For different width walls normally the wider is on the bottom and they put a CAP on top of lower to hide gap. easy peasy
  20. yes molding is typical per room when you construct home as it looks "right" and you have smae types meeting at corners. NOw with you ponly wall do you have 2 differet baseboards on each side thente question is how to join? Normally they would make it like a Cased opening but only up to top of wall where you would have some sort of "Stool" plate to cover top.
  21. the more you play the more you learn with this software as I bet there is always a couple of ways to do things. Don't forget it has Partition under cabinet which is basically Vertical Filler strip choose your width as it comes 3/4" to start. What found best was to goto a good cabinet manufacturer website and find their Spec Catalog which shows everything they make so you know what you have to do. Example is some do not paint/stain the sides and leave it bare wood so you may need an END Panel like you have. Then you check their end panels to know what sizes are typical. Think I used Craftmade and some of those RTA cabinet shops websites to find spec paes. No sense dsigning something that is SUPER CUSTOM and Super expensive.
  22. I just went to cabinet door library section under cabinets and grabbed one. Resized and changed color to my needs and slid it in place. Easy peasy Stick them on side or back for islands.
  23. so they added horizontal offset - Dayum such a small detail that should be in pro IMHO
  24. I wish they had the abilty to build up profiles all they need is to add horizontal offset and maybe Mirror. Then you could take a base and mirror and then rotate and use to build up a fancy crown by placing aganst the wall up near ceiling.
  25. I have issues once in a while with stem walls since they are "AUTOMATIC" and you do not have a way to edit them. SO I just make a little slab and slip it under wall to replace stem walls and no is the wiser