Kbird1
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Not if it is 18" out , turn on reference display and then on level 0 drag the wall close to the Level 1 walls , if you get close (2-3") you should get the Align with wall above icon ( or below if on L1) on the Edit Toolbar , which will auto align them after that. M. edit if you have nothing built/drawn in the basement ? just delete the foundation and rebuilt it is also the quick way to do it....make sure you have no wall or anything as it will ALL be gone.
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post pics of your floor plan , we are guessing what you need to do otherwise.....you didn't mention garage was attached in the 1st post so..... you can start the stair in the basement and go UP no issue there , but you do need to create a stairwell too ,Auto stairwell may work for that, but are you sure you made a basement? you do have a level 0 right? and it is at least 8 ft high? Stairs ALWAYS draw in the UP direction by default. You can force them to Build Down by holding the ALT key as you 1st draw them though if needed. Click Stairs in Pro will also build down automatically eg from a deck to the terrain too.
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as David mentioned take some Perspective overview shots the doll house overviews directly above the building don't let us see what the terrain is doing and a terrain perimeter /lines pic too. The terrain will auto build at 18" below the main floor ( level 1 is 0") of the building if the building has a foundation , so depending on how you measured your elevations and what they are referenced too you may need to make allowance for the 18" in your height calcs. At least in Pro the default height is changeable in HDA I'm not sure. note: The default distance is different for different types of foundations. you can use the Flatten pad checkbox to flatten the terrain under the building to start ,setting the terrain height right in relation to the building ,then working with just a few terrain lines to get a gentle slope. the elev. numbers for those lines must be calculated from the Default height AND using + or - with your numbers. Eg if you input 0" at the driveway it would actually be the same height as the terrain at the building which is always 0" (The main floor of the building is 0" too but is really 18" above the terrain ( as above) so it can get a bit confusing,so ignore the building) which may account for the "fishbowl" . you will need to use negative numbers since the build pad is 0" and up the back is +72" so the front would be say -12" then -36" not 0" at the driveway to get a slope. Moving your camera out to the side should let you see what's happening in the 3d window while you change numbers on the EL lines , (you can split the view windows with Shift-f6) You can use Display Options for each and every different view 2D or 3D cameras to display or not certain items or lock items so they can't be selected by accident. Some objects have a front group/back group option but I think that refers to how the program draws things rather than what is selected. . M. Ps as with all things HD there are many ways to get the same result , so hopefully other will chip in with ideas too, I am no terrain specialist but hope this helps.
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The technique used for custom cupolas ....not really a cupola.....ie using a BLANK 2nd floor, same as you are suggesting , which allows you to do more in a lot of circumstances than you can do, in the Attic level (which HD and Chief restricts) eg getting a room definition and thus control the ceiling height which is needed for doing it this way. Gullwing will also work using this technique ..... though I haven't seen the real world situation , it does work as can be seen with a 3/12- 6/12 and the "cupola" making the Dutch Gable. probably missed something in my instructions in the 3rd pic , so ask me if it ain't working for you. It takes a bunch of fiddling with ceiling heights etc to make it look right , so I'm glad I have Pro for when I need to do this for real then again maybe I did it the hard way? but aren't sure how much control Interiors has on Roof tools? everything here is done with Auto Roofs though. Cupola KB Article http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00869/52/Home-Designer/Roofs/Creating-a-Cupola.html
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Have a look at the KB Article on Custom Cupolas , the same technique of using a BLANK 2nd floor ( set ceiling height to 0" when building) may get you there with a bunch of messing round with room heights and wall placement. There is also a Thread on (Continued) Cupolas a few pages back we discussed several months ago. M.
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use foundation walls to make a stairwell outside the basement door , eg 4'x 10' , then the stairs will build . Hold ALT key to build stairs down instead of up. if you have build your terrain already you may have to use a terrain hole to see the stairs (under the grass) and you'll need to change the stair risers and treads to concrete (plan material since foundation is in) M.
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Mr Escher would be proud --- nice
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sounds like a Dutch Gable Roof but pics are always good ,either from program or the real thing... there is a Tut. on the KB for dutch gables but you may have to play with invisible walls or attic walls if you can't control Roof planes. http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00749/52/Home-Designer/Roofs/Creating-a-Dutch-Hip-Roof.html
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David Potter charges $65 or $75 hour for Lessons , he may be willing to open a copy your plan and work with you to do the detail ? and print then to PDF. you wont be able to open the file again ,once its saved in Pro, so use a copy of your Original. You have 2014 so neither Bob or I can help ,so David ,or Rich Wilson perhaps maybe willing to help? try messaging them.... I'd spend and hour or two google around though , lots of standard CAD details online ...unless you need a special case scenario? even some of Chief's Sample Plans of full builds have them, some are in PDF already . http://www.chiefarchitect.com/products/samples.html eg M.
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If you do decide to upgrade there is a tutorial for Pro to get you started here: http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00439/0/Creating-a-Cross-Section-Detail-in-Home-Designer-Pro.html
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I mentioned the alcove in my 1st post , but it seems he is only getting the alcove cos he tried using walls to make the fireplace, once walls are gone he wont have an alcove, he doesn't actually want or need a chimney chase by the sound of it. Just a Box sticking out of the wall. Could use geometric shapes for that too...eg open end box with wedge on top
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Pro can, it is a limitation of Suite , you can import/export DXF in Pro as well for doing Sections etc. Suite doesn't do crossections ,just camera views so you can't dimension etc or do CAD Detailing. Not sure of Architectural's capabilities for doing those? but may mean you need to Upgrade or hired DJP to finish the drawing for you?
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Yes just use Framing members and Posts ( similar to making a Pergola or Arbour) to make your own playground if the one in the free Library doesn't work for you. http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00889/ http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-02799/0/Creating-a-Play-Area.html http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-01081/103/Home-Designer/Framing/Creating-a-Pole-Barn-Structure.html
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AKAIK Suite can't do Cross sections can it ? ( didn't used to show foundations in Elevations either?) So importing images or PDFs are probably your options or just printing off Standardised CAD Details and adding to you Plan-set, most Planning offices make you remove any reference to Companies/addresses etc not your own as most plans are technically "copyrighted" . you can use the "snapshot" tool in Acrobat Reader to get an "image" from the PDF of the detail you need and paste it to Suite ( or Word or ? ) to Print it with the extra info. A lot of State's are required to post the Building Code Online by law , will take some digging but it has drawings for a lot of common situations. eg California https://law.resource.org/pub/us/code/bsc.ca.gov/gov.ca.bsc.2010.02.5.html or even your local govt.office/building Dept. perhaps it has a Handout? M.
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I thought I had seen a Library with kids Playground stuff in it too but couldn't find it in my version 10 but perhaps in a newer version ? or I didn't use the correct search terms?. M. Edit: There is some stuff in the bonus libraries for 2012 and up in a library called Outdoor Recreation, not sure what as I can't use it on '10 http://3dlibrary.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?r=site%2Flibrary&search=&x=true&hid_cpca=0&hid_cpu=0&hid_ctm=0&hid_ctnm=0&hid_order=&hid_norotator=false&hid_soft_family_1=0&hid_soft_family_2=1&hid_soft_1=0&hid_soft_2=0&hid_soft_3=0&hid_soft_4=0&hid_soft_5=0&hid_soft_6=0&hid_soft_7=0&hid_soft_8=0&hid_soft_9=0&hid_version_1=1&hid_version_2=0&hid_version_3=0&soft_family_2=2&version_1=on&x=0&y=0
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no problem as I said ,wanted to make sure you're "informed" upfront, since it can't do materials for a simple arbour accurately it seems. Make sure to get the Reference Manual PDF too, lots of reading to do..... it's more extension than the online help in a lot of areas. Pro can export to Excel which is good for most unlike the other titles where it is text only I think. M.
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without trying it but a thought would be .......try setting the "fireplace" room's floor height at 36" and the ceiling at 72" and see if that works ? Or use the "fireplace tool" to make the firebox , instead of walls M.
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AFAIK it Dimensions to whatever IT considers the Main side (Layer) which can be set in the Wall DBX with the checkboxes and radio buttons it also takes into account the options in the Defaults>Dims>Locate as shown , you currently only have it dimensioning the main side ( above comment) and to the Drywall (GIB) surface on it , not the framing. you could have it dimension both sides of interior walls with the checkbox provided....either to the framing or to the drywall depending on the Main Layer / Surfaces boxes. Mick.
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Just wasn't sure you really needed to spend the extra $$$ on Pro , especially for a one off build, wanted you to go in with eyes open.....so.... after reading below see this post too: https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/114-materials-list/ Pro's Materials list are only as good as the Model they come from and will need a lot of (extra) input to be accurate, ie you need to model it as you would build it , stud by stud, don't assume the Program "knows" , I brought Pro for use in my Business and have not found it great at all for my estimating needs. Here is a small arbour ,12' deep from the wall , 17ft between the posts , and 12'4" up the 2/12 slope for the glass roof......and perhaps some of it is my fault ? but i'll let you take a look at the Materials list. My preferences are set to Buy List so you would think it would round the lengths up to the nearest "Buy" size eg 12'6" means a 14' but it doesn't do that, and if a piece is 1/16th different in length it adds another line item. I need (13) 14' (3) 16 and one 18' (or 20') and the 2 6x6 posts.........it gets the posts right Of course it does not model . nails.bolts, screws ,glue,or post saddles etc either..... I'd hate to think what would be missing on an entire House even a small one. There is 292 sqft of glass, it says 1315' ? yes 1315 not 315. at $20-30 sqft that's a big booboo.... ( all pricing must be entered manually BTW if you want Costings.) there is almost 900 sqft of "invisible" materials ..R3,R4,R5 2 ft of downpipe ? no 2x10 ft long @ minimum why the concrete is under exterior trim is a mystery to me.... why the List "cannot find" 1/2 the 3x8 Rafters is too.... the materials list (had to use pic , it keeps scrambling the copy and paste)
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I don't know if the above technique works in other versions of HD Software , just have to try it, I cant test it. Even Pro Can't print full size Docs directly , you can print to smaller scale in PDF and then have it upscaled though. but most City's especially from home owners allow submittal in 11x17 or 12x18 inch too too, do you really "need" Pro though ? Is the City actually asking for a detailed Framing plan? ( other than the structural plans for beams etc? ) Do they really care if you frame it the traditional way or using advanced techniques? Does your City "Allow" Advanced techniques ? some don't especially in high wind areas.....
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Not possible as noted , it is a limitation of Pro , but you can just save the current plan under different names and do it that way ,,,, see here https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/161-creating-a-new-cad-layer-in-hd-pro/#entry830
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you don't explain "how the roof should look" but some guesses all the walls are Hip at the moment so assuming that is correct ? -auto rebuild Roofs is OFF ( default in Pro) and you haven't rebuilt them after moving the windows down -if its one straight roof line you want ? the Minimum alcove setting is narrower than the alcove on the right of the Wood wall.....making it 100" will fix it if needed (default is 36). M.
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schooled ! AFAIK "Unspecified Rooms" are included by default..... just do a simple total sqft calc of the whole building , width x length for each building Room sizes do not account for the wall thicknesses unlike the Living Space Calc. AFAIK.....
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If you search here you won't get it but over at the KnowledgeBase (KB) you will plus a couple others on creating custom driveways and Sidewalks with patterns and inlays http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00843/ http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00774/222/Home-Designer/Driveways/Creating-Custom-Driveways-and-Sidewalks.html
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I would leave 8 installed for now , so if you find the new library is missing certain items you use a lot , you will be able to import them into Suite '15 too I think Essentials still lets you install a lot of Chief's library but Suite has more items , Suites big advantage is you can download free symbols off websites such as Google's 3D Warehouse. AHD and Pro have this capability too. https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/ if you have particular needs I'd still call the 1 800 sales no# and ask since I don't have Suite '15 to 100% confirm stuff for you. Mick