DavidJPotter

Then what are the "Stairs" for??? DJP

It is a lot easier to place posts (AKA Newels) by way of the "Wall Specification Dialog - Rail Style Tab - Post to Beam" setting. then you vary the spacing of the Posts (aka Newels) by way of the "Input Box" for "Newel Spacing" to add or subtract newels and their spacing one newel to the other. Eric, above, suggested you share WHAT software and its Version you are using which helps us help you better, since different apps have different capabilities from version to version. DJP

Looks like you also want a loft room over the great room. It is a little confusing to me that you want a vaulted ceiling and then intend to cover half of it with a small, not very useful in terms of head room loft room, is that part of what you are trying to do? When you look at the floor plan and ceiling heights compared to the elevation views of the house, they DO NOT AGREE WITH REALITY in that the Great Room area is at least two or three feet higher than the ceiling heights would create if you followed them slavishly (not workable). it can be done but the plans need to not lie to their reader like these obviously do. These are my preliminary thoughts on looking at your plan file and the online plans and images. I haven't had breakfast yet so I am loath to start making a video just right now, maybe others will have some input while I have my morning coffee and eggs. DJP

Here is a group of European type plugs and switches created by a Chief Architect User in Norway that you might try to import using "Library - Import .calibz" from within HD Pro. You will just have to try and see if your Pro will import these symbols. It may or may not work. DJP EuroPlugs.calibz

I doubt that you will find any "Max" users here, good luck in any case. DJP

What file format are they currently in, please? You can find out what file formats can be imported as "Symbols" under the "File Menu - Import 3D symbols" for a complete list, take a look. DJP

Create the garage foundation Manually. DJP

Post a copy of your plan please. DJP

Here is an example of a parapet roof version of your plan DJP new-parapet.plan

You have then slanted or shed roofs, using the same method all you need to do is to change the "pitch" settings to "zero inches" or perhaps 1/16" : 1' pitch to obtain flat roofs ("Flat" roofs are not actually perfectly flat, they are built to have a slight slant so when it rains, the roofs drain instead of "lake". Without more detailed information, I cannot advise more. After downloading and looking at your plan I now see that Suite has a limitation of 1/4" in 12 as a minimum pitch. I applied what I suggested to you above and got the roofs more flat looking. You may want to consider using a parapet roof system. You create a second floor that has no ceiling and set the "Ceiling Height" to the intended height of the parapet exterior walls. That way you can obtain the appearance of flat roofs (0.0 Degrees) and assume the roof system is slanted to the edges of the second floor parapet (similar to a Spanish colonial pueblo roof look). The missing attic walls that result can be manually drawn in at need. DJP

Select and then open the dialog box of the ramp and lower it bottom until it meets the surface of the terrain or raise the terrain using its dialog box to meet the ramp. Either method should work, it is just a matter of which method fits your situation. Open those dialog's and really see what is there and what it empowers you to do. DJP

You can "lock" layers but such locks are global, not selective by area or room. Even Chief Premier cannot do as you ask unless (can only be done in Chief Premier) create custom layers and then lock those. That cannot be done at all in any Home Designer software title. (Chief Premier costs about 3K compared to HD Pro at just under 500 dollars) DJP

Under Materials List tools in HD Pro you can selectively select a materials list from a "Room" (a space enclosed by walls) or all floors (which would include the as built as well) or for an "Area" by using that tool to draw a poly-line around just the area you wish to measure for a materials list. DJP

Yes, on remodel projects, I commonly model the existing home and call it "As Built" and then save-as a copy of that and name it "Version One" or some such. Then to the copy of the as-built I add the additions. An important note on the "Materials List" tool, it is programmed to measure how perfectly you 3D modeled the structure and is as accurate as YOU can exactly 3D model the structure and not an iota more (Most new users do not bother to learn the software well enough to do that). I am just trying to be realistic relative to a professional grade materials list using this software. I do NOT recommend any Home designer software except Home Designer Pro because it contains the most choices and the least barriers to getting it right. But again, the bottom line will be determined not by the software but by your willingness to thoroughly learn the software BEFORE using it for production work. It is your choice to make, the software is an intricate tool but will NOT do it for you without your competence being present. For remodels you would use the Polyline Materials List tool and draw the closed polyline around only the addition. DJP

The new size limitations do NOT apply to your physical printer. If your printer largest size is letter or legal, then all you can print to paper are those sizes. What print size refers to is the limitation of size Home Designer software can print to, THAT limitation has been removed. It does not mean that it magically causes your small format printer the ability to print like an Architectural Plotter. It means that printing to PDF and other print file formats that can be read by Architectural Plotter machines has been removed in Home Designer. This in no way alters the abilities of the physical printer you may have in your home or office. The limitation is removed from the software itself. DJP

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The size limitation was removed for all Home Designer titles for 2021 per the Home Designer Website, take a look please. DJP

Number zero: Set the room dialog boxes-Structure Tabs to the style of floor and ceiling framing you desire. Number one: Set all values to what you intend to use on the project in "Edit - Default Settings - Framing (all categories and floors) #2: Order that framing be built (Walls, Roofs, ceilings and floors) #3: check the results for correctness and then manually edit what is not found to be correct. You can view the results using a "Framing Overview camera or in plan view turn on the framing layers that you wish to see so you can evaluate and edit them as you see fit. DJP

I knew you would figure it out pronto, thanks! DJP

Several rooms had improper settings for vaulted ceiling rooms, which when corrected allowed the software to file in missing attic walls. On the problem with the gaps in the interior wall, I found nothing that Suite is capable of fixing (I easily repaired the wall poly-line using Premier but Suite does not have that ability, HD Pro does but no other HD titles) .Perhaps someone (like Jo_Ann) can take a look and come up with a workable solution using Suite alone. DJP Current State closer v2.plan

Without being able to open and inspect a copy of your plan, nothing but guesses could then be made, Please post a copy of your plan so actual help can occur please. DJP

I have been a user-teacher since the mid 90's and this is usually caused by an out of date software driver for your video card and or your video card may be too weak to support Home Designer software. First make sure you have the latest software drivers for your video card and then if no joy, take a look at upgrading the card to something more modern. I am not, never have been a Mac user so other suggestions may be coming from other users who do. DJP

First, once you have enclosed a space you give it a "NAME" so if you want a "Deck" name the space "Deck" and you will then get one, only the deck name gets you a deck. DJP

I am guessing that Jo_Ann is doing something you are NOT: mainly using "Temporary Walls" to help guide the software to a desired result. You temporarily get rid of any interior walls (rooms) that are misleading the roof generator and use only those walls and enclosed spaces that can lead the roof generator to your desired result. Once the roofs are correct you NEVER THEREAFTER use Auto build roofs and when roofs are correct you can then replace all interior walls as you wish. DJP