DavidJPotter

Read the knowledge Base help article that Kat posted above. Read it, understand it and then implement it. DJP

I did verify that two windows can be made into a corner mitered glass window in X8 but three does not work. I reported it to Tech Support as a bug or feature request. I will share what they say when I get a response. I think Eric already noticed this earlier and I verified it in X8 and Pro 2017 as a short fall of function. DJP

I did find this Knowledge Base help article:https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00673/creating-corner-windows.html At the top of the articles it states that the articles only applies to Chief Premier and Chief Interiors so cannot be done in any Home Designer titles, sorry. DJP

Eric has the right idea, really learn how all the tools work and their settings and practice following your study sessions. Once you really know what you have you then develop the judgement of knowing what the software can do and how you can get something emulated no matter the apparent limitations of the software. The main limitations are self generated and not actually "real". I am completely self taught, I never attended a class or seminar. I have taught seminars for Chief Architect in Idaho, New Mexico and Texas none the less so I know what I am talking about. Is it "easy"? Well name anything worthwhile that was "easy". If you want to learn, you can. The place to start is the PDF Reference Manual and PDF Users Guide that install with your software found under the "Help" menu. DJP https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuEeA3zaC48

Home Designer Suite is sold for $99.00 (you get what you pay for). Home Designer Pro sells for $495.00 and with it you can make the floor platform thickness whatever you wish by default settings. Blaming the software is not the answer, if you want exactitude, you pay for it or you make due with what you have. DJP

I tried and tried but like Eric, was unsuccessful getting the corner window to work every time, I got it to work about one out of ten try's, so I consider it a rather buggy situation worthy of a bug fix, it should not be as hard as it currently is to do. DJP

Using LawB10's file I did the following video: DJP PS: I did not think of this while making the video but the floor of the porch could be lowered as well since the raising of the porch ceiling has a vanishing point.

You need to supply the forum with a little more specific data to help you: 1. what software title are you using? 2. can you be a little more specific towards communicating exactly what you are trying to achieve? 3. I do not understand how a 3" crawl space and a basement that is accessed by stairs are the same thing? 4. Images or sketches help a lot in saying what you are asking about. 5. a copy of your plan that others can look at and edit is also useful provided you get across clearly what it is you are trying to do. DJP

A place to start will be found in the "Build Roofs" dialog - "Roof Styles" tab where basic settings to build certain roofs will be found. You need to read the section about "Shed Roofs" and apply that data to your currently uncovered porch. That may lead to other steps you may need to take. Only Home Designer Pro allows manual roof editing and creation, all other titles depend ONLY on settings and additional temporary walls to get roof designs done. DJP

You can place a thin soffit, sized to the same dimensions and height location as the landing and have the landing soffit carry whatever material you wish. By default, landings pick up their material from the stairs they are connected to, so the soffit is a way to get around that and have what you want relative to appearance. DJP

Yes you should be able to but like Eric said, we could all be more sure if we had a copy of your plan or at least some screen captures of this alcove you are asking about. DJP

Usually the key setting for this is in Edit - Default Settings - Windows - Minimum Separation - set that value to zero inches and the other one is found in "Edit - Default Settings - Plan - Ignore casing for opening resize". That setting is usually the culprit when trying to do what you are trying to do. DJP

The important consideration is that the overall wall thickness matches your home and that the walls, inside and out look similar to your walls. Practically speaking, such walls must match relative to their "Main Layers" matching in such a way that they will properly join one to another and thus dimension properly (if the main layers is improperly set, dimensioning will not work and walls will not then properly join one to another). Without seeing a copy of your plan, Eric and I can only guess what is right or "wrong". Just be sure that if something looks wrong, it will be found that some key setting or element has been missed or misunderstood. DJP

If you merely wanted to sketch or trace over something if he could give you an image file (.jpg. .png, .bmp or .tiff) you could import that into your software and then resize it (scale it) and then trace over to emulate your swimming pool. DJP

Please be more specific when you ask a forum question: 1. What software are you having trouble with? 2. post an image or images to illustrate your question 3. post a copy of your plan file so others can look and see what is wrong. DJP

Here is my attempt to help on You Tube: https://youtu.be/VVtJTjdUGFM DJP Stair Trouble 10APR16 v1.plan

Here is your edited plan attached and a video of me working on it in X8 (my copy of Pro 2017 is on my laptop - other PC): https://youtu.be/P284mjCim6U DJP House 160412 01 ... 160408 04 architect no interior.plan

In order to get exactly what you want relative to appearances,you often times have to abandon reasonable solutions (like you have that do not work) and try something out of the box that does. It is reasonable to use walls as you have but they have limitations relative to materials as you are complaining of. If you were to use solid railing walls you would then have additional materials tab settings to help control the bottom and edges of walls via the wall's materials tab. Or you could use invisible walls to mark the space and visually use cabinet soffits that carry only one material all the way through their boundaries. Either of those choices would get you around your current problem. The Materials eye dropper and painter are handy but far over used by new users without any study of their four tool modes, an object's materials tab should be the first choice for controlling materials. DJP

When a layer is "locked" you may not move or edit the objects on the locked layer in "Display Options". When walls normal is locked you cannot create any new walls or edit the walls that are present, you may not be able to lock just one wall, it is all walls or no walls. DJP

Check with Chief Experts.com for his seminars, there are no teachers-seminars for Home Designer users except those offered by Chief Inc for Chief Premier users. I am the only Home Designer teacher I know of, I train only on line using my Go to Meeting Service. I have worked with several Canadians over the years. DJP

I have never thought of adding the tracks, you should be able to find an opener in the library catalogs somewhere. I guess you could check at 3D Warehouse but I have never needed them in any of my plans. DJP

Like anything we do in software, especially Chief or Pro, it is a matter of turning on and off the various layers that enhance the graphic communication we intend. In Premier you can create a annotation set for this, in Pro it is a lot more manual per view. Eric, a "reflected" plan is usually called a "Reflected Ceiling Plan" and shows just stuff located on the ceiling. Floor plan structural, floor plan electric, floor plan HVAC, Roof Plan and reflected ceiling plan. Different views for different purposes. DJP

Here is a solution to your problem: https://youtu.be/0tbTg28egxs DJP

The proper sequence is to first set all relevant default settings. Then build roofs and check them to make sure your settings are correct. Manually build trusses. Check them in an elevation camera to make sure they are as you want. Then build roof framing, when trusses are in place, the software will build to the trusses. Manually edit any auto framing where it disagrees with what you intend to do. DJP

I do not know what you saw but Pro is Pro and Premier is Premier. Pro has a tool specifically for creating a hole in the floor or ceiling. You just use a closed poly-line tool and then use the "Convert tool" where you can choose what the poly-line will become ( a hole in the ceiling, floor or roof - roof skylight). All of this is fully explained in the Reference Manual (found under "Help") DJP