DavidJPotter

Here is a You Tube video of me looking over and editing your plan: https://youtu.be/yDUb1ibz3Pg DJP Floor Plan.plan

That just indicates that the grade beam (footing) has been notched for a door, it is an automatic function of the software. Unless you are a State Licensed Structural Engineer and thus licensed by the State to draw actual foundation plans, don't worry about minor details like that. DJP

This is not rocket science, just open your software and give it a try until you figure it out by trial and error (that is the best way, anyway). Read the data you have and then try that, until you get the outcome you want. DJP

I reported this as a bug to Tech Support. They told me it is now "logged" and they are looking into it. DJP

You Create a layout file for each printed page that you require (Floor Plan.layout, elevations.layout, electrical plan.layout etc). DJP

I do not see any windows in your posted image at all. Do you mean "doors", the doors with a bookcase in front of them? DJP

Kat, thanks for the correction! DJP

Do what Kat suggests for sure. DJP

Architectural does not have the ability to lock any layers, sorry. DJP

I did a sketch of your intended design in Suite and then in Pro so you can see the difference in capabilities of the two programs. I think you will be much happier with Home Designer Pro as opposed to anything else: https://youtu.be/GosnMg2IuSE DJP

The video you are referring to was done in Chief Architect Premier and can be done with Home Designer Pro but NOT Home Designer Suite. Whether or not your job can or cannot be done in Suite is open to question (I do not fully understand just from your post exactly what you want to do). It does not sound complex but in order for us to help you Eric and I must completely understand your intentions to determine whether or not what you want to do can be done in Suite. DJP

Only Home Designer Pro, Chief Premier and Chief Interiors have that functionality, sorry. DJP

Read the knowledge Base help article that Kat posted above. Read it, understand it and then implement it. DJP

I did verify that two windows can be made into a corner mitered glass window in X8 but three does not work. I reported it to Tech Support as a bug or feature request. I will share what they say when I get a response. I think Eric already noticed this earlier and I verified it in X8 and Pro 2017 as a short fall of function. DJP

I did find this Knowledge Base help article:https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-00673/creating-corner-windows.html At the top of the articles it states that the articles only applies to Chief Premier and Chief Interiors so cannot be done in any Home Designer titles, sorry. DJP

Eric has the right idea, really learn how all the tools work and their settings and practice following your study sessions. Once you really know what you have you then develop the judgement of knowing what the software can do and how you can get something emulated no matter the apparent limitations of the software. The main limitations are self generated and not actually "real". I am completely self taught, I never attended a class or seminar. I have taught seminars for Chief Architect in Idaho, New Mexico and Texas none the less so I know what I am talking about. Is it "easy"? Well name anything worthwhile that was "easy". If you want to learn, you can. The place to start is the PDF Reference Manual and PDF Users Guide that install with your software found under the "Help" menu. DJP https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zuEeA3zaC48

Home Designer Suite is sold for $99.00 (you get what you pay for). Home Designer Pro sells for $495.00 and with it you can make the floor platform thickness whatever you wish by default settings. Blaming the software is not the answer, if you want exactitude, you pay for it or you make due with what you have. DJP

I tried and tried but like Eric, was unsuccessful getting the corner window to work every time, I got it to work about one out of ten try's, so I consider it a rather buggy situation worthy of a bug fix, it should not be as hard as it currently is to do. DJP

Using LawB10's file I did the following video: DJP PS: I did not think of this while making the video but the floor of the porch could be lowered as well since the raising of the porch ceiling has a vanishing point.

You need to supply the forum with a little more specific data to help you: 1. what software title are you using? 2. can you be a little more specific towards communicating exactly what you are trying to achieve? 3. I do not understand how a 3" crawl space and a basement that is accessed by stairs are the same thing? 4. Images or sketches help a lot in saying what you are asking about. 5. a copy of your plan that others can look at and edit is also useful provided you get across clearly what it is you are trying to do. DJP

A place to start will be found in the "Build Roofs" dialog - "Roof Styles" tab where basic settings to build certain roofs will be found. You need to read the section about "Shed Roofs" and apply that data to your currently uncovered porch. That may lead to other steps you may need to take. Only Home Designer Pro allows manual roof editing and creation, all other titles depend ONLY on settings and additional temporary walls to get roof designs done. DJP

You can place a thin soffit, sized to the same dimensions and height location as the landing and have the landing soffit carry whatever material you wish. By default, landings pick up their material from the stairs they are connected to, so the soffit is a way to get around that and have what you want relative to appearance. DJP

Yes you should be able to but like Eric said, we could all be more sure if we had a copy of your plan or at least some screen captures of this alcove you are asking about. DJP

Usually the key setting for this is in Edit - Default Settings - Windows - Minimum Separation - set that value to zero inches and the other one is found in "Edit - Default Settings - Plan - Ignore casing for opening resize". That setting is usually the culprit when trying to do what you are trying to do. DJP

The important consideration is that the overall wall thickness matches your home and that the walls, inside and out look similar to your walls. Practically speaking, such walls must match relative to their "Main Layers" matching in such a way that they will properly join one to another and thus dimension properly (if the main layers is improperly set, dimensioning will not work and walls will not then properly join one to another). Without seeing a copy of your plan, Eric and I can only guess what is right or "wrong". Just be sure that if something looks wrong, it will be found that some key setting or element has been missed or misunderstood. DJP