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  4. I have a second floor that extends about 18"-24" over the first floor. I want to put a wall attached sunroom on my deck even with the first floor. Problem is I have 96 inch clearance from bottom of the 2nd floor bumpout and the top of my deck. The back wall of the sun room requires 100 inches. I guess my question is, what is likely to be under the vinyl ? Will there be a way to modify the underneath?
  5. need to select room. then click EDIT button. Thengo to STRUCTURE TAB There you will find CEILING info and button to turn off
  6. Try room defaults or check the reference manual too
  7. Sorry - looked everywhere but don't see a place to uncheck "ceiling over room"? Looked in tutorials, etc. Actually don't see anything in the program that mentions ceilings at all.
  8. With that, I think the roof is about buttoned up. I think it looks right from the outside. The main thing I've noticed left outstanding is the ceiling underneath the 2nd floor room that supports the roof behind the actual 2nd floor. If I make it an open underneath room the whole 2nd floor roof disappears. I probably need to adjust the ceiling height for there not being a floor.
  9. We are enclosing an existing car port that already has a ceiling and a roof. How do we remove the ceiling rafters that seem to be automatically added when adding a wall? And, yes, I need to work on the stairs as they need to be set into an already elevated existing home.
  10. That makes sense...I updated my signature. Home Designer 2025 - definite novice. I bounced around the tutorials quite a bit but some answers were not really easy to follow. But will play with the tab help. Thanks, E
  11. ingenius! I’ll try it tonight
  12. I have figured out how to put a shed roof over the circular stairwell, using auto rebuild roof. 1. Delete the roof over the right half of the 2nd floor stairwell. 2. Create a 3rd floor blank plan (this will prevent interference with the existing roof). 3. Turn on floor reference display, and create a 3rd floor invisible room,shown in the image.
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  14. For a weatherproof transition between these roof types, implement these critical steps: Structural Connection: Install double 2x ledger board on main house with 1/2" galvanized through-bolts (spaced 16" OC) Use Simpson H1 hurricane ties at rafter connections Water Management: Step flashing must extend 12" up pitched roof under shingles Saddle flashing over flat roof membrane (minimum 24-gauge galvanized) Slope flat roof 1/4" per foot toward scupper drain Material Transitions: Ice/water shield over entire flat roof deck + 3' up pitched roof EPDM or TPO membrane for flat section with termination bar at pitch transition Climate Consideration: In freeze-thaw regions, add heating cable in gutter above transition to prevent ice dam formation.
  15. I have a master plan that I start my jobs from too. Just take a layout, make your changes, then save as a name that's easy, like 18x24 master, or 24x36 master. Then when you open it for a job, save it as the job and get rid of the ".plan" suffix so it becomes a layout for that job. Then when you make your changes, it saves as a layout for that job, and your master stays intact for the next one
  16. Thank you for sharing! May I ask how you set-up a "Master Layout"?
  17. I've taken the 18x24 default layout sheet, set up a master layout with the information I want, saved it, then created a 24x36 master layout sheet from it. Then I can use it whenever I want. I don't mess with the title block. I just take the border, bring it to the edges of the larger paper, then slide the block to the right edge. It's large enough, I think, for all of the information needed. I have it saved in a file and just pull it from there for each job. Plus, I have a bunch already "made up" for the clients I work with the most. Often they like having their business logo on the paper in the space at the bottom right corner between the block and bottom of sheet as well.
  18. I am using HD Pro 2023. I would like to be able to print layout view for printing plans in 24"x36", Arch D. I can change the "Drawing Sheet Setup", but it doesn't scale the title block, etc to the larger size. Is there a way to make 24"x36" the default print size as well as have the title block. borders, etc scaled appropriately?
  19. Which version of the software are you using? Filling out your signature will let people help easier when we know what version and year of the software you're using. Questions should be posted in the "Q&A" section so more people will see them. Tips and Techniques is where you post things you have learned that may help others. If your project doesn't have a ceiling, delete it in the structure tab. Then the roof framing will act as your ceiling framing also. As a side note, your stairs look way off, so those setting may need to be reviewed as well. Turning of the framing is done in the "display options" tab. You can select what items to show in each camera view. It would benefit you greatly to spend some time reviewing the reference manual or help tab available on each page.
  20. Sorry to appear (or be) slow - but I don't see any "Display" menu or option in Home Designer? I have tried to delete roof but as it is really a ceiling, it doesn't work. I don't see any option ot even work on a ceiling. thoughts?
  21. Thank you, I was completely fixated on making the section of roof that lowered with the fudging/tweaking around the stair come back in line with the rest of the 1st floor. It never occurred to me to tweak the rest of the 1st floor to match.
  22. When you refer to the roof ridge "breaking" you need to be more clear what you are referring to. If you are meaning that raised section of the roof, , do you not remember how to adjust that?
  23. because if I put it there the roof ridge over the main house breaks that's why I asked you if you were able to do it without the roof line breaking
  24. ??? You can see the image I posted showing the position of the 2 walls (orange & blue). Why, oh why, are you not following that?
  25. Doing that, to get the roof ridge across the main 1st floor to continue across as one ridge I have to move the orange room divider well forward of the curved stairwell wall so I end up with roof in front of the curved wall in the plan where it doesn't exist in real life. Have you been able to get the main roof right without getting roof in front of the stairs?
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