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Yes, I framed inside the opening for the door (I'm the owner/builder). Trying to create a complete set of as-built plans to go with the custom build. The original architectural plans were done a long time ago and are hand drawn. I have a hybrid set of plans currently that was started in a different CAD program and then dropped into Adobe Illustrator, but I'd really like to have a proper set of CAD files to go with the house. The door framing is inset a couple of inches on the inside of the house leaving a much larger inset at the front which has a 2nd curved relief over the door to bring it flush with the ICF wall. I'd really like to understand how to create these sorts of models in Home Designer. I do understand that it may not be possible to get exactly what was built, but I'd like to get as close as possible. The difference for me is just dropping a door into the ICF wall will not really come close to matching what was built.

So they framed inside an opening for the door? I am guessing the outside stucco material lines up. Does the inside sheetrock or is the door framed opening inset? When it is all finished what will be different there? I mean if nothing then just stick your door in the main wall and forget about this framing.

Pity about 2d plan shadows - important tool where I work for Council applications. Not enough new features for me to upgrade just yet. Thanks Derek - I found the new features page in the meantime. PS - How about a new north pointer to replace that country and western arrow head? (I draw my own)

I am working with Home Designer Pro 2026 I have 2 story house. The bottom half is ICF block and the upper half is 2x6 engineered. The front doorway of the house is a 2x4 wall built inside an 8ft x 8ft opening in the ICF block. I have not found a way to represent this combined ICF + 2x4 wall. I have tried creating the primary ICF wall with a passthrough hole in it, but there isn't a way to build a wall inside a wall. I've also tried a pony wall with the 2x4 wall on the bottom and ICF on the top, but Home Designer insists on putting in a stucco drip edge at the split between the two wall sections. Looking for best option to create this composite wall section.

Check the Dimension defaults to be sure you unchecked the sides. I got different dimensions when both are checked and all RO when the sides are unchecked.

I'm trying to dimension this floor plan, and for some reason some of the windows and door are showing the rough opening size and some are showing the exact size. I only want the RO size displayed. I went into the dimension settings and set it to RO's, but it hasn't fixed the issue. Any ideas? Inconsistent Window and Door Measurements Problem.pdf

Another method you can use which has worked for me is to make a special wall (using an arched doorway) with the thickness equal to the depth of the arch or barrel ceiling. Make certain you set the wall to no room definition, no locate, and no moldings. So far it seems to work well for me anyway.

Change NUMBER STYLE (pretty much on lower left of any object edit screen) to Number Style = DECIMAL FEET Ange Style =Quadrant bearing Then draw a line and then edit it to length and angle written on plot plan. do this for the 3 straight sides. Then move them so they connect at proper ends. then draw in arc and edit it to match info on plot plan. Easy Peasy. I have tried it where you draw rough shape then edit lines but it is PIA as you have to be sure what is locked start or end else it changes other lines. Now what you may find out is it is not perfect due to rounding on surveyors part so just choose one to be the error part like maybe the radius. Here is your plot plan: The arc is the part I had to make work as I figure that is easier to mess up than others. IT is just a poly line you need to convert it to TERRAIN. plot plan.plan

If it's a PDF, import it to your plan, set the scale from marked dimensions, then trace it. You'll want to turn it so that your walls run straight up for the structure. In other words, turn the terrain, not the house

I have a plot survey map of my lot, how do I build a Terrain perimeter with bearings and dimensions?

Thank you for sharing this valuable information!!!

I've downloaded all the free cats I think I'll want... Any recommendations for 'must have' catalogs I should purchase as a new user?

Well hell... For several years I've been figuratively 'trapped' in another company's pile of garbage modeling software. I've been wanting to migrate to CA for decades. Since it first came out on Fred Meyer store shelves. I almost pulled the trigger a couple years ago (in a fit of rage over the previous platform's random bugginess) when the full version CA could be had for a one-time fee of $2800. Unfortunately I decided to wait given the economic times. When I did get to a better position and was more than ready to drop my wad down and move on over to CA I found they had gone to a SaaS price model...same price, now yearly, and I don't own the software. Holy hell was I disappointed as I refuse to pay that mount of cash for a product that I don't own outright. So I waited again...and gave up on the CA dream. Then I recently stumbled across CA's Home Designer Pro 2025...a standalone, stripped down version of CA...for $800?? Hell yes, take my money!! At least I won't have to use that other garbage anymore going forward. That alone will keep me onboard for quite a while but I seriously doubt I will ever sign on for a SaaS version and I'm very disappointed that I've finally got aboard the CA train only to find out I'll have to pay at every stop just to get to my destination. Not cool...not cool at all.

I have been using Home Designer since it was part of Better Homes and Gardens. I have gone from the architectural version to pro about 9 years ago. I use it constantly to designer custom modular homes in which I general contract. Not happy with the subscription model. I will keep my Pro 2025 since it will always work and do what I need it to do or at least until it will not work with a new OS. I am not interested in having to "rent" the software and lose everyting if I can't pay for it. I think I will be able to use it until I retire in about 10 to 12 years and then it won't matter. It has been a good run but I am out for the subscription.

Oh thank you! Took a sec to figure out I need to send a vector view to layout otherwise the "plot lines" option is greyed out but I've got printable elevation views now!!

I tried that before but I guess I didn't have the wall break close enough to the other walls to create the roof lines I wanted. Now I have it. It's not perfect, but easily close enough. Thanks!

that roof might be too flat for shingles as they have a minimum roof pitch for them to work properly otherwise you have to treat it as a flat roof with the rubber overlayment and guys with torches sealing it off.. especially if you live where it snows. Check with a shingles manufacturer website or drive to HD or Lowes and rear the package on a shingle bundle. Doing this research now can save you headaches when actual building. see where I live in Hurricane gulf coast those would get ripped off in high wind events since wind can easily pick up edge and lift them off.

how did you make vaulted ceiling with ceiling plane? Then drag its edge over the wall studs as sheetrock is automatic no matter how you do anything. PS if you need help you can google it and there are peeps out there who charge for their help services with this software

I hear you leaving a rude comment, but your description of my questions do not offer me anything to learn how to better explain this. I've provided as much info and photos that I possibly could think would be relevant to figuring out how to solve the latest problem, which I'll reiterate again: how to raise the outer roof on just one section of the building (without causing strange ceiling and roof glitches), when the interior and exterior ceilings of the same wall are somehow different heights in real life. Or if it's too complicated for a simple solution provided on a forum, that's why I asked about a potential alternative way to get help. I didn't see any clear information about that from the support resources. Why not just tell me the information I'm leaving out to be able to answer my question instead of leaving a rude comment? I'm not trying to attack you back, I mean that frankly: there's enough negative energy in the world already, and there are more productive ways of communicating online.

I hear you complaining about getting help, but your description of the problem, (and the posted image) do not offer much for anyone to have an opinion about what needs to be done.

I fixed it! Part of the railing was missing but it wasn't obvious.

Is this what you want?

Did you send the view to the layout as a 'live view' or 'plot lines'? Plot Lines will be a crisp view.

I'm trying to get some gable walls for my rooflines but it is giving me very large gable walls which extend into parts of the building which shouldn't happen. I've attached three screen shots. A - shows current gable walls. B - shows (black lines) planned gable walls and peaks C - shows what happens then the planned gable walls are made into gable walls. I've tried all kinds of combinations (even with interior walls) to create the roofline I want, but with no success. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

Banging my head against a wall over here with this building structure. Now I'm having this problem with a weird gap where the vaulted ceiling doesn't meet the upper wall. This doesn't seem to be a very active forum – is there another place I can get some hands on help with this model?