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plans .zip

I understand and I apologize for not including screenshots/plans initially I was on mobile and didnt have a file. I’ll attach them to this reply so the issue is easier to see. Right now, all room ceiling heights are set to: 96" finished ceiling 94 1/2" rough ceiling I’ll also try your suggested setup and report back with the results to see if it resolves the roof/wall issue. And yes, the 16' dimension is outside-to-outside overall. For the wall height, accuracy between the plans and the actual build is important to me because the finished high wall will be exactly 10'. The framing plan is based around using 114 5/8" studs combined with 4 1/2" of plate material to achieve a true 10' wall height. Normally I would agree about avoiding cutting every stud, but in this case I’ll likely be trimming them anyway. The “stud grade” material available from our local lumber yards has been inconsistent, and I’ve seen as much as 1/4" variance between pieces. I’d rather take the extra time to cut them uniformly and avoid ceiling inconsistencies later on. 809 showing bad roof.pdf 809 Telegraph Floor plan view.pdf 809 Telegraph render back.pdf 809 Telegraph render front.pdf

I have 2 bathrooms like this. Tried 2 new walls that did not have sheetrock on sides that touch - program did not like that very much and would delete first wall drawn. so I end up just using SOFFIT and went from floor to ceiling. Looks great.

hard to answer without pictures and maybe copy of plan. For the rooms what do you have ceiling height set at? My suggestions to try is make all rooms with a wall height of 1.5" base plate + 3" for 2 top plates + 92.625 for pre-cut studs = 97.125" Do not worry about high side at this point Set roof pitch at your 1.5" per foot. draw outer walls. Then generate roof using the auto roof function. IT will create attic walls above normal walls on high side. See you say 16ft but is that out to out or inside or what? Also, why so important to have exactly 10ft tall wall? Studs come in 2 lengths for 10ft. 120" or 104 5/8" PRetty much always have bottom plate and 2 top plates at 1.5" thick each. So for your 10ft wall you have to buy 120" studs and cut everyone - adds labor cost and probably a wavy ceiling at edge.

Hi everyone, First off, I apologize in advance for my limited experience and knowledge. I am a complete amateur and definitely not an architect or engineer. I’m trying to learn as I go, and I genuinely appreciate any patience or guidance. I am currently designing a small cabin in Chief Architect and have run into an issue with my shed roof and wall heights that I cannot figure out. Project specs: - Cabin size: 30' x 16' - Shed roof design - Roof pitch: 1.5/12 - Intended wall heights: - Low wall: 8' - High wall: 10' From my understanding, the math should work correctly: - 16' span = 192" - 192 ÷ 12 = 16 - 16 × 1.5" rise = 24" total rise So unless I am misunderstanding something fundamental, a 1.5/12 pitch across 16' should naturally create approximately 2' of rise, meaning an 8' low wall and 10' high wall should be achievable. However, in Chief Architect, I cannot seem to get the roof/walls to generate correctly. What I have tried: - Turned OFF “Flat Ceiling Over This Room” - Set my top plate/wall height to 96" - Set roof pitch to 1.5/12 The issue: - My high wall ends up extending above and past the roof plane - The generated wall height exceeds 10' - One of the studs is showing around 121 13/16" - The roof/wall intersection just looks incorrect overall At this point, I suspect the issue is probably related to: - Roof baseline settings - Wall definitions - Ceiling/roof relationships - Or how Chief calculates automatic roof generation rather than the roof geometry itself being impossible. Could someone explain: 1. The proper way to set up a simple 8' to 10' shed roof in Chief Architect 2. Whether I should be adjusting baseline height instead of wall height 3. Why the high wall is extending past the roof plane 4. Whether my understanding of the roof math is correct I would really appreciate any explanations, corrections, or guidance. I am still learning and trying to better understand both framing concepts and the software itself. Premier x17 latest software version Windows, nvidia gtx5050 8gb, 16gb ram, I5 2.20ghz I will update this with plan/screenshots posting from mobile device Thank you very much for your time.

I'm working on a project where the contractor decided to frame an extra stud layer on the interior side of this kitchen (in order to create enough depth for plumbing and a washer/dryer hookup). How do I adjust the way the walls connect at the corners so that the extra framing layer hugs the inside of the walls on each side, rather than cutting halfway through them?

@y-g-m-nThank you for posting. Below are comments a couple of the questions (that I have answers to). What do they do about file structure though? what happens here if you do not update on their schedule? We will continue to release new versions (typically every 12-18 months). Current subscribers will always have access to the most current version. If you maintain your subscription, your product key will accumulate the older versions. Upgrading is not compulsory, you can stay on the older version as long as you like. File compatibility between versions remains the same as previous products - the files (plan, layout, and library) are forward compatible but not backward compatible. Kind regards, Derek Chief Architect Software

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I thought I'd come back to this post to see if there was any interest or actual (successful) takers of this offer. Seems like nothing.

did yo make new wall with out drywall on one side? for the look you can "PAINT" with the "stud wall with insulation" Shows studs and pink insulation in between.

I'm trying to create a garage that has no finished surfaces on the interior. The result would be that you can see the studs and trusses. When I delete the finished layer from the wall it shows a plywood surface even though none is indicated in the wall structure. And I can't find any way to remove the white ceiling under the trusses.

y-g-m-n: Thank you so much. That was a heart-stopper. It was exactly wht the problem was. Hawk

maybe your view is on floor 0 and not floor 1? Should see number 1 like in attached pic. If you see 0 click up arrow to change floor that you see

Hi: I laid out a complete single story floorplan. I then decided to switch from a foundation and footing to a slab. I entered Build/Floor/Foundation/Monolithic Slab. I hit return and my first floor disappeared. I now have only a foundation plan. What happened? I didn't delete anything that I am aware of. I don't want to lose all my work. Does anyone have any idea how to redeem this?

Hey @y-g-m-n, I really appreciate your taking the time to reply, that was the issue and it is now fixed on my end! Plans are off to the engineer.

the back wall as drawn is on first floor but you have few windows in tha wall drawn on 2 floor. windows have to be drawn on same floor as wall.

Do you have a terrain or floor below? Maybe post your plan so we can take a look.

I have finished my plans, built the deck and when I go to the elevation the rim joist, post and footings are not there. I need help!! This has never happened before.

Get the lastest updates to the Sharp Appliance catalog on the 3D Library, or through the Library Browser's update and direct download features.

HELP!! Project file attached. So I've recreated this model from scratch, exterior only, trying to get around this issue. New model file attached...same wall. Upper floor windows in the rear wall wont cut their openings. I've isolated the issue...vaguely...to setting part of the space inside to "Open Below" in room definitions... Any help would be greatly appreciated as I now need to deliver these plans and I need the 2d elevations to do that. 850 HEIM NEW.plan

I have it in HD Pro 2025

The point to point move tool is not in Home Designer Architectural 2025. It is available in Home Designer 2026.