SwedishCowboy

Home Designer Pro 2015

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I am new to product.

After installing, there were no updates to 2015.

I am trying to do a plot plan as first task.

When I enable Select Objects the cursor does not show selection arrow icon, but instead shows the enable Edit Behaviors / Edit Object Parts icon (looks like it without a checkbox).

I seem to be able to select multiple lines (they show an enclosing box), and do a Snap Settings / Object Snaps.

However, the lines are separate (not polyline).

How do I get a polyline object?

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Make sure "Object Snaps" is "ON" or line entities will not "snap" to each other. This is a generalized answer because you have not stated which "Title" of the 2015 version you have, they vary wildly in tools and abilities.

DJP

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The "Edit Object Parts" following your mouse cursor around indicates that have that tool active.  It's purpose is to only be able to select individual lines in a polyline, so you need to turn if off.  Under your Edit menu, go to "Edit Behaviors" and uncheck "Edit Object Parts."

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to get a line to become a polyline you need to convert it to polyline but it would only be a sprinkler line......a cad box could become a slab or ??? there are about 8-10 choices when you "convert to polyline" with the right click menu option or icon once an item is selected.

 

M.

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Thanks for helping me remove part of my blinders.  I now see the enable / disable functions a little better.  Since nothing is done when I "Snap" the lines, I guess I am just enabling them to be snapped and need to change them in some small way to get the "snap" to happen.

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lines will snap together automatically if they are close enough , same for walls etc....  post some pics then well be able to give you specific help , as I am not sure what you are trying to do.....

 

M.

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Apparently lines will snap to close coordinates if "Snap" is enabled when they are drawn.  If you enable "Snap" after being drawn, nothing is done unless you change a line.

That is my understanding.  I now have a polyline object based upon it.  Thanks for the help!

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if you have the "snap to grid" on it will default to the nearest "snap point" , turning the grid snap off makes it easier if you are trying to draw precisely in CAD in particular.

A lot of settings are not retroactive as you have noticed , I think there is more info on that in the Reference Manual. You can get it by downloading the PDF which is linked on the help menu.

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This kinda on topic so forgive me if I expose too much of my naivete. I thought I posted this a few days ago but I can't find it. 
 
I have HDPro10 and used it successfully to design and implement a major remodel of a spec house. I have also over the past 3-4post-195-0-07975900-1401912296_thumb.jpg years or so designed several models of walkout basement homes and made good use of the miriad features in HD Pro10.
 
Recently a contractor friend asked me to undertake a design to add a cupola to his two-story log home.
 
I have found (and not just recently) that certain automatic functions of Pro10 are both frustrating and time-consuming when trying work-arounds. 
 
The issues become time wasters as I've been at this for days without being able to make a complete presentation. 
 
As an example I attached an illustration of the design that has multiple flaws and is incomplete at this time. 
SIPs have been chosen for the hexagon cupola as it is to be added to an existing home in a high wind environment.
The cupola is to be mounted upon (straddling somewhat) the massive log ridge-pole and tied also to the associated 4X12 rafters at the apex of the roof. The floor will be suspended from the ridgepole & rafters and stabilized with joists to nearby attic walls.
 
A) The automatic attic walls are my biggest impediment in this design case. Seems it cannot be disabled and the close ones snap to the new cupola walls and make for regeneration errors.
 
B) I cannot make all of the sides of the 6 ft-on-a-side Hexagon absolutely the same dimension, even though the 120º angle is achieved.  
 
C) Since the floor of the cupola is to be elevated above the second floor ceilings, I cannot prevent the attic walls from distorting the module and/or changing the characteristics of the SIP walls.
 
D) The roof of the cupola is to be 3/12 because of height restriction, while the existing house is 5.5/12 pitch. There is no option for a SIP roof in Pro 10, so I have to manually revise the cupola roof;  Owner doesn't want framing under it. 
 
E) the plans ultimately would have to be reviewed by the county so flaws are problematic.
 
1) So I come to the question, have I overlooked a useful feature in Pro10 to resolve any or most of these issues?
 i.e.: a) auto attic walls on-off;   B) SIP roof option;  c) Better object generation (like a hex room).
-OR-
2) Would Pro2015 provide improvements in flexibility to help me though this and other projects like this?
 
I might add this particular project is pro bono but it could lead to a few paying jobs if I could be more efficient. LOL.
 
Much Obliged
 
Whidbey_Bill
 
Home Designer Pro10 & 8
Windows 7 Pro. 
Intel Quad 3 GHz, 6 GB Ram
Samsung 240 HDD, One TB file storage
25" Samsung T260 SyncMaster LCD, AMD Radeon 3800 Video.

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David, Rich ,JoAnn etc may have some thoughts and I can't answer the 2015 question as like you I have Pro10 but

Attic Walls are automatic and cant be turned off....

Pro10 doesn't do Sip Roofs , think this came up recently in another thread ( do a search) and they are problematic,not sure even Chief Does them?

I am not aware of any premade Hexagon rooms ,but check you dimensions are set the same , usually they snap to the main layer (framing) but you may have temp. dims set to snap to surfaces ,so a temp dim will appear to be longer , eg by the thickness of the siding.... ie: you may have it correct already.

If you upgrade to 2015 I hope you will update this as I'd be interested ,I too am thinking of upgrading since '15 does multiple monitors....

If you post your plan , I can take a quick look if you like , the new forum allows 10mb uploads you just have to zip the file 1st.


Looking at your images , I'd say the Cupola is way too low , they would have to cut the log main ridge beam otherwise and support the roof somehow else..... ie very costly...

if it is right ? cant you in elevation view pull those rafter down into the Cupola wall area ? vs the Cupola sitting "on" the beam as described earlier in your thread...

 

edit:  Is the cupola decorative only? ( ie open to below will cut out floor) to just let light in etc? then I guess the main ridge pole concern wouldn't be a concern , I don't see access stairs so maybe so ?


I don't see attic walls in your pics so not sure of the issue there...


Mick.

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Hi Kbird.

 

The Cupola is to be erected by the home owner and the SIP wall assembly with roof attached is to be lifted by crane into position after the sub floor and needed floor joists are in place. The owner expects to notch the pre-assembled cupola around the 28" diameter ridge pole so that's already understood. the cupola floor will be separated (elevated) from the second floor ceilings by about four or five feet and that where the issues arise, i conceed.

 

A ladder from a nearby ceiling pushed through a floor hatch is the method for access.  I may be doing the best job possible with the programs constraints.

If, before I build the NEW third floor, I PULL DOWN the offending attic walls to just an inch or so, I can manage to build a pretty close model as you can see in the JPG. But rebuilding the roof and framing to accommodate the inserted cupola intiates the unwanted distortions. Trying to correct them leads to other problems.  I've had five years with Pro10 so I can handle most of the features but this job has a special set of circumstances, as you can see.

 

The cupola height inside is restricted, of course,  for several reasons. The owner doesn't want his open ceiling to be significantly "messed-up" with a lot of framing hanging down. He's comfortable with low headroom just so he and his spouse have a viewpoint above the tree line. The cupola inside has just 5' 6" max headroom and the floor is to be flush with the bottom of the ridge pole. He cannot cut the 4' spaced  4X12 rafters, of course, so they will protrude into the cupola space as shown. There is a height restriction of 35' from the county, and we're adding the cupola to a house that is already 30 ft 6 in. at the peak.

 

Yeah, a lot of constraints. And rebuilding, or resizing the design to make it fit the existing structure is very challenging. etc, 

My profession is aerospace test engineering and product design including spacecraft, so I am no stranger to CAD. 

 

Thanks for reviewing. If 2015 has a few augmented features the $300 upgrade would be worth it to save time and angst.

 

Bill

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I'll close my issue by saying that i talked to Kelly at CA tech support. He advised thar "attic wall" attribute can be checked off in the pop-up dialogue box which might help. I'll try it but regenerating a roof may switch it back. 

 

HD 2015 still has automatic attic wall generation. Rendering with shadows is interesting. There isn't a method for making equal sided hex walls although I succeeded earlier today in making a 6' hexagon in SIP with all sides ± 1/16 th, but resorted to 1/4" snap. good enough for now. No SIP roofs.

 

Kelly at CA suggested that all of my issues are accommodated in CA X6 which can be rented a month at a time. Call sales for more.

 

Bye. . 

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"1) So I come to the question, have I overlooked a useful feature in Pro10 to resolve any or most of these issues?

i.e.: a) auto attic walls on-off; B) SIP roof option; c) Better object generation (like a hex room)."

Bill, if a regular roof plane can be made to look like a SIP roof panel, no one else will know but you and me. Seriously, it is not important whether or not an object is or is not what it is named, for drafting purposes, as long as it looks like one and you label it as such, for all practical purposes it is.

Attic walls can be temporarily turne off in "3D Preferences" (the command you use is to uncheck "Automatic rebuild walls, floors and ceilings", that is the function that automatically rebuilds them per unit of time).

You cannot delete them with "Automatic rebuild walls, floors and ceilings" "ON" but you can open them and make them invisible by way of their spec. dialog.

HD Peo 10 has a polygon deck tool, you can use it as intended and then convert it to a room, changing the walls and name as you desire, but I rarely use that tool for that purpose, though I have on occasion. With practice and determination you can make a perfectly symetric hexigon room manually, I have done it many, many times. The key is to dimension it one wall at a time, clock-wise until all the walls are equal, it does take some patience.

The real key to making a manual coupla is to create a blank second or third floor, that action prevents any attic walls intruding into the space you wish to build the coupla "room".

The 2015 line is worth your attention but you do NOT need to upgrade to do what you have described above, you do need to learn ALL the tools available that are built into HD Pro 10 first (the same tools exist in 2015 that you are not using now).

DJP

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Thx for the feed back Bill , get the Client to pay for Pro 2015 as you Payment , cheap design by 1/2 I'd say....

 

Was not aware CA X6 could be rented monthly .....

 

We had a thread on the old forum and one here about 2-3 weeks ago on doing Manual Cupolas , it may help , as as David said the "3rd floor" must be derived from a "New Blank plan" and not derived from the 2nd floor below or it wont generate properly.

 

the old thread

http://hometalk.homedesignersoftware.com/showthread.php?19505-Adding-Cupla-affects-entire-plan

 

Not sure how you got your 3rd floor?

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