Basement Rake Wall Stair Railing Not Stopping at Truss Beam or Ceiling

[TechGuy]

Hello All,

 

I'm looking for a bit of help to find out if there is a way to model out these basement stairs as built with Home Designer Pro 2022.

 

I'm currently challenged in finding a way to keep the railings from penetrating into the first floor.

 

 

Any insights and guidance would be greatly appreciated.  Please let me know if any additional information is useful.  I will try and post the plans next, as I've currently exceeded the attachment limits.

 

Many Thanks in Advance,

 

Guy

 

[TechGuy]

Basement -As Built.plan

 

The draft plans are now attached.

 

Thanks,

 

Guy

 

[solver]

I would experiment with turning off the stair railings and use a railing wall (pony wall with railing on top) set to follow stairs.

 

[TechGuy]

Thanks for the suggestion solver,

 

Some of my initial attempts were with trying to use pony walls with railings on top as you suggest.  In my view that is much closer to how they were actually built.

 

However, the issue remained the same.  The railing penetrates the first floor.  The only reason it works with either method on the right hand side is that the wall hides the protrusion.

 

Quick and dirty update of the draft plan.  Only the left side was modified to be a pony wall.

Basement -As Built -v2.plan

 

I'm still a relatively new user, so I'm hoping it's just a combination of settings I've not figured out yet.

 

Thanks again,

 

Guy

[solver]

There isn't an automated way to make the railing stop. Using a railing wall, you can stop the wall where the railing starts to protrude.

[TechGuy]

Thanks again solver,

 

I attempted a variation on your suggestion as my focus is on the basement.  I'd prefer not to have a gap in the railing across the ceiling.

 

I was able to stop the railing wall where it intersects the truss beam / ceiling.  This minimized the amount of protruding railing, but did not eliminate it.

 

This also gave me an idea to try after work.  Perhaps I can add another wall break, and shorten the railing height for that section?

 

Thanks again, and I'm very interested in any other approaches or ideas,

 

Guy

[Rookie65]

Since you have the rise/run figured out, make 2 separate stair sections and connect them. The lower can have railings on 2 sides and go up the number of treads until it hits the ceiling. Don't use automatic heights. Then create the second stair section w/railing where you want/don't want it. You can then connect the bottom of the 2nd stair set to the 1st and it will look like a full set of stairs.

[Jo_Ann]

A challenge to experiment with.

I found the pony wall /w rail method easiest to use.
After following Eric's instruction to place the wall,  then break the wall .
Open the upper pony wall and set the baluster/newel tab railing height to 2".
This eliminates the unwanted upper rail.

You will still have missing balusters below the ceiling.
Get the matching balusters from the library, and manually place and size them  (there should only be 4 or 5 to place).

[TechGuy]

Thanks Rookie65,

 

I had ran across the separate stair sections suggestion in another post and previously tried it.  I found that it still caused the same type of penetration issue as I mentioned in my most previous post where I broke the pony wall, and removed the railing from the upper section.

 

Thanks Jo_Ann,

 

I'm going to look into trying this suggestion.  I only recently got hints of being able to manually place library objects.  I'm hoping that this might be a more straightforward solution than what I've cobbled together.

 

Thanks again, I really appreciate the knowledge being shared,

 

Guy

 

[TechGuy]

Hello All,

 

So I've come up with somewhat of an acceptable solution for now.  The downstairs railing no longer penetrates into the first floor.

 

 

In reality it still penetrates the truss beam and ceiling.

 

 

With a bit of a tedious process I ended up breaking the pony railing wall into four sections and progressively lowering the railing heights.

 

 

I also ended up with more newels/posts than reality.  Using the half post feature did not match the two joining halves properly because of the wall angles. I reverted to just using a starting full post and no end post.  Even with this setting, the last visible post was mainly just showing it's squared off base.  Writing this up made me realize I could then change those to be somewhat the same object and size.  However it's still a bit off.

        

 

I hope this may help someone else out one day.  In the meantime, I'm going to try Jo_Ann's suggestion next.

 

Thanks,

 

Guy

 

[TechGuy]

Hello All,

 

I took another stab at this and incorporated Jo_Ann's suggestion of being able to manually place objects.  I think this version represents rather well in its current draft state.

    

 

 

Basically I started over with the stairs.  This time the stringers were modified to represent trim.  The pony rail walls were placed next to the stair instead of underneath.  I had to break the left side pony wall once.  For the section that the railing started to protrude through the first floor I found I could change the railing height to 12 1/2" instead of the suggested 2".  Then after disallowing the newel/posts I only had to place a single V-01 piece of millwork.

 

 

The results came out better than my previous attempt.  There are still some slight anomalies.  The manually placed millwork does not follow the stair slope, and the second pony railing wall section follows the slope at a different height.  I intentionally left the manually placed object with it's default material so it would stand out for now.

 

 

Otherwise I'm fairly happy with this being able to represent the as built scenario for now.

 

 

Thanks again for all good suggestions and insights,

 

Guy

(WhoSpentWayTooMuchTimeOnThisChallegne)