OldmanFreeman

Gable wall won't generate with Dutch Hip

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I have finished my house plans and met with the truss engineer yesterday. I have been making a lot of copies for him with inside and outside measurements as well as printing the floor plan and elevations. Now, one end of the house is not looking like it is supposed to (and did earlier).

 

I am using a gable with a Dutch Hip above the garage doors. (I've used the same roof line on the other end of the house and it worked fine.) I am attaching screen shots of the plan, which shows the dormer roof line, the "Edit" screen for the smaller garage door showing the Full Gable Wall button selected and a picture of the garages with a HIP ROOF! If I edit the larger garage door wall to make it a "Full Gable Wall" then both of the gables work!

 

Please help me solve this mystery!

 

Thanks

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Screen Shot 2018-06-28 at 6.24.03 PM.png

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34 minutes ago, OldmanFreeman said:

Please help me solve this mystery!

 

Someone will need your plan file.

 

You want a Dutch Gable over both doors?

 

ht1.thumb.jpg.fde977f6012ddd9eaff505cf7ed8090c.jpg

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Change the large door wall to hip and build the roof.

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Only place I see to select Hip is on returns. Tried that and no change.

 

Deleted the roof and I can see the full gable wall as I should.

Screen Shot 2018-06-28 at 7.59.33 PM.png

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The overhang is interfering with the roof build.

Make these changes, then rebuild the roof.

OldmanFreeman roof.JPG

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ht3.thumb.jpg.09994b99d1dc7cc81b413e4e59f8b304.jpg

 

Not sure what you are using the plan for, but here are a couple of suggestions.

 

I try for full inch dimensions where possible. Yours are mostly random -- close, but not exact. It's far easier for the guy building to not deal with fractions.

 

Before

 

ht1.thumb.jpg.f0c9df3d05885899919001f2efce4b24.jpg

 

After

 

ht2.thumb.jpg.afdc68a3b7bbac2e77398da8bc56f83b.jpg

 

Also, reach in closets are typically 24" inside (sheetrock to sheetrock), more depth is mostly wasted space.

 

I'd move the washer/dryer to the outside wall for easier dryer venting, and maybe tighten up the spaces a bit.

 

ht4.thumb.jpg.84a6eff224ca37e7ec91b770989fad38.jpg

 

 

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Jo_Ann, that worked. Thank you. It makes sense now. When I met with the truss guy and my builder yesterday, my eave overhangs changed from 15" to 24".

 

Eric, thank you also. My "Edit" page is different than the one you showed. What matters though is that it works now! The 2' closets help and I did make the measurement changes you recommended. That end of the house was a very late night reshuffle to make room for the bonus room stairs. My wife really wants to fold her laundry on a counter in front of the window so I'll have to work out a dryer vent. The 2' entry closet did allow the appliances to slide back so they don't hinder the cabinet in the corner.

 

I am thankful there is a place to get help and you both were so kind. I appreciate it.

 

Steve

 

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You might also want to reconsider your stairs.

A u-type stair is less invasive to the upstairs planned room, and it is a safer type of stairs.

OldmanFreeman rear entry stairs.JPG

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Jo_Ann, thanks for the suggestion. I'm only putting the bonus room above the garage though. That is because, the living space in that end of the house has 9' ceilings. The garage will be a step or two lower than that so I'm dropping the ceiling in the garage to 9' so I'll have a bit of additional head room for the bonus room. That also shortens the stairs needed to reach the bonus room. I am considering some attic trusses over the living space, though it will have a higher floor level, it will still be useable for storage.

 

I appreciate your help on this project.

 

Steve

 

 

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