Kbird1

Keep the Fireplace Flush with the Ext. Wall , and build the chimney/chase separately wide enough to cover the "bulge". Then apply whatever material you like to it. Instead of using the Fireplace tool there are Fireplaces in the Library , eg Rustic Fireplace 1 and 2 which are architectural blocks which can be then exploded and a different material assigned to the Chimney/brick material in the "bulge" ( or any of it components) M.

Sounds like you are trying to use the WALL Break tool instead of the LINE break tool which looks like a lightening bolt and will appear on the EDIT Tool bar once something is selected , in this case the edge of the landing where the stairs connect. It only appears if a line object is selected ( the wall break tool is always on the toolbar). I think the requirement to zip plans is no longer needed .plan and .calibz files can be posted direct to the forum now as long as they are smaller than 10mb. Mick

Can you post a copy of your Plan here ? I'll have a look if you like I also tried this new technique in a new plan and it worked for me in Pro 10 and Pro 2015 Trial , your User Signature does not say what version you have and you haven't said. There are 5 2015 versions alone , all with different features which is why it is a good idea to add it to your sig, , as answers frequently depend on the version of the software being used. If need be select and open the landing and remember the height setting, close the DBX and select and open the Upper staircase and then uncheck automatic heights and set the bottom height to the same as the landing height, that should hopefully get the upper staircase to "jump up" in the 3D view. You may have to break the edge of the landing where the stairs touch the landing in half to get them to connect. The break will also allow you to select the "no railing on selected edge" checkbox will will get rid of the rail across the stairs in the image you posted. M.

Nice Trick Derek , 1st time I have seen that trick....I have always drawn the 1st stair then the landing then the second staircase and end up having to break the landing edge and sometimes set the bottom and top heights manually for the second staircase. M. Karen if you see this I noticed in your image that Angle Snaps are OFF , that box following the cursor , see it its a warning that you should turn them back on

this question popped up in the FAQ today too , might help https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/288-need-help-building-stairs-and-stairwell/#entry1494

Not quite sure what you are asking ? Are the two photos from the same room ? on the outside the roof is a gable above the window but inside it appears to be a sloped ceiling ? should be doable , if what I see is correct ? make the gable roof, uncheck the ceiling tab in the Room's DBX and then do the ceiling with a custom ceiling plane... As a followup to the bay/box window any of the three methods allows you to make the material "wood" even the simpler soffit , ie you can apply any material to any "Object" . I try not to "paint" stuff unless there is no other way , I usually assign the material needed in the Objects Materials Tab if at all possible. M.

Actually the flooring material on the seat is pretty common ITRW , but if you can't change the material the normal way you have a few choices... Cabinet Soffit > change size and material and use to cover/hide the window seat ( same height, width but make 1/8 thicker) Slab> as above Custom CounterTop > as above M.

There was a bug in the last Patch that is causing the crown moulding error , it's not your fault/something you've done , if you do a forum search you will find a "Bug" report/thread about it. In the Staircase's DBX (dialog BOX) on the railing TAB do you have railing transitions set for the left side ? and smooth transitions..? You can , if ever needed follow the link to the old Legacy Forum too, it is sometimes worth searching there too.... Mick

The columns I made need to be unzipped/extracted then imported as usual with the import> import calibz menu item M.

some pics would help show what the issue is , we will be guessing other wise .... Your foundation will always show above the terrain ...that is how it should be, even in real life..... it depends on what type of foundation you built as to where your terrain will build. there are KB articles ( see my sig) which cover all this nicely.... eg http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00322/72/Home-Designer/Terrain/Setting-the-Height-of-Terrain.html or http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00861/72/Home-Designer/Terrain/Understanding-How-the-Height-of-the-Floor-Relates-to-the-Height-of-the-Terrain.html If you didn't build the foundation yet , your grass is probably showing 0-6" down from the main floor height, ie you may have grass for carpet if so make sure you have a foundation or slab floor 1st , then alter the Pad elevation in the Terrain's DBX (dialog box) to what you need and uncheck auto elevation. Mick.

There are a few in the Library , did you check for bonus libraries? been a few new one's lately too and I made some a while back and posted them here : https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/22-cupola-thread-continued/?hl=cupola

Okay use the Box Window tool then , I think 2012 works like Pro10 and you have to use a Elevation view to raise the bottom off the ground. (2015 is easier it has a DBX for this setting) We discussed this a month ago in another thread....i'll see if I can find it.... M. here: https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/250-bow-and-bay-windows/?hl=window

One Tip for drawing curved walls is to draw a CAD Circle the right radius/diameter 1st , then the curved wall will try to "Snap to it" as you draw the wall , you can also use CAD lines to 1/4 the circle ( turn on arc centres) so you can tell where the wall intersection points are....when all is good you can delete the cad circle and lines... Keep angle snaps on as David suggested but check out the other options too in Prefs. you can change there colour too so they are easier to see as you can for the selected item , it doesn't have to be grey .... edit handles can be resized too and made red or what ever colour you prefer . M.

try setting the casing to 0mm then Phil and see if it covers the Framing/studs I see in the exterior Doorways.....it might be white? but you can change the exterior casing material to the same stucco as the house to make it look like the stucco wraps into the recess and back to the door. those are thick walls ...wow ... you can probably use the bay window tool to make the bay/bow window tool instead to make the Bay as I think they allow for doing the window seat.... Your roof can be more correctly modelled using the Upper Pitch checkbox if you have it in Interiors? in the Wall DBX. The two Pitch Roof or Gullwing as HD calls it is pretty easy and there is a good tutorial in the KB on doing it. good luck on the furniture shopping..... M.

Okay ,found it after climbing into the roof with a camera view ... the existing roof pitch is too steep to have a 12' wide addition AND have the same roof line if the addition was 8' high (not 9") your addition would be 8'9" wide , is that what you are referring too with the 8'9" above ? Is the existing structure really 8/12 pitch? per Roof DBX settings... ( check with a Level App on your phone if you have too) if it is only 6/12 that will make a huge difference.... You would need to goto 5 /12 ? maybe on the office at 12' wide and 9' high ceilings perhaps 6/12 if 8' ceilings Edit: and you can just turn off the railing in the Wall DBX for the 4 walls of the office and make the wall type Siding as I thought. The inner wall will need to be reversed so the siding is on the outside...ie facing the Barn area not the office. M.

so far..... The walls on the office aren't in line with the main building on both ends 1/2 " out ? fix that and align walls with those above. The gable problem is cos you have eaves set to 1/4" so the roof/fascia is cutting onto the gable , make it 1 1/2 " and then the fascia will generate along with the siding,generally the siding would come up behind the fascia to keep it waterproof in the ITRW, and you have to allow for sheathing too (1/2" OsB/Ply?+3/4 siding?) The Roof looks right ....before you extended it (plan so I am confused as to the issue ? M

Did you perhaps move/open the Doorway with no Base slightly too wide ? ie the base is buried in the wall perhaps? , little strange cos the Base on the Arched Doorway is missing too. You could move that wall back towards the front door 2" and see what happens , the photo appears to show it this way too ,not flush at the corner. you can turn base off if you don't plan to install any too , I don't see any in the photos. Or turn it off , then back on to get it to regenerate hopefully. What you call Pockets Windows just look like window seats to me , are they raised on the outside too ? photo's? plan view how have you drawn these? M.

hi Phil , you have more than 1 issue with your walls I'll post some pics , excuse the handwriting , my mouse writing skills aint too good apparently... Looks like you have your exterior doors set up as "Recessed" and no exterior Casing , this also turns off the Jamb which is why you are seeing wood/framing in the door-ways , turn casing on and set it to 0mm,1mm 0mm and make the material stucco , so you cant see the framing in the doors. I couldn't get it to make a plywood door per your pic but I didn't try an arch top top like you. David will no doubt have some advice too Mick.

pics of what you have done would help ...... eg is it a hip roof? a gable ? etc etc.... there is a setting in the Wall DBX in the roof tab for "extend slope downward" did you try that over the addition ? Add a slab floor and draw exterior walls between your Posts , not sure if drawing right thru them will simply eliminate them or not? or perhaps you can just uncheck the railing checkbox in the Wall DBX and define the new wall type you need eg 6" siding.... ? Do a "save as" and make a couple of back ups of your plan to date in case you get something way out of whack and can go back, before you try these things. M.

Hi Phil the only cabinet you have is a bright red soffit speared thru the wall on the RH side of the Door in the "Bay area" with curved walls... at least that I can find ....I was going to turn off everything but cabinets in the display options but saw you had a soffit only , wasn't too hard to find being RED Have you somehow made plywood your default door material ...so it only shows when you add a door perhaps? does the real "Bay" have a door ? or is it a bay window with a seat ? as per photo? is the a door in the middle? will keep looking at it.... M

As far as I know concentric only works on full round top windows not on quarter rounds but you could use Angled Soffits at say 3/8 x 3/8 , they are not the most intuitive thing to work with in HD Pro but once you have the 1st one done you can copy / paste and flip around as needed, but I don't have a workaround for the concentric ring if you want it too. in the plan defaults > Plan try checking the "ignore casing for opening resize box and see if that lets you take the opening to the wall if you don't want the arches all the way to the floor ,as per the pic ,try a window pass thru instead of a doorway.... there appears to be something out of the post between the Arches too. M.

You are right JoAnn , I just did a quick cross section , and there wont be enough head room , however the landing is real narrow as well only 2'11" so not wide enough , I think Code may even be 39" (3'3") for stairwells . You can fix this since there is room upstairs by lowering the landing to 42" and making it 42" wide too , make the bottom stairs 5 treads and the top 9 treads......... while playing with this JoAnn I just found the lower interior wall ,the staircase is against, doesn't line up with the Upper wall , (4" out?) but am unsure which wall is incorrect ( or if you or Tim drew this up? ) but it throws the staircase out as it come up under the upper wall. M.

Perhaps you are doing it differently ? but I'm not sure you need to customise anything really if printing to PDF (recommended) , all the sizes should be in the drop down boxes provided , you just can't choose a paper size larger than 18x24 in PRO ( 11x17 in lesser versions) in the Select Printer Paper Section but it is fairly easy to get 24x36 PDF's and Print them at a Copy Shop or yourself. My Photo Printer will do 11x17 , ( or 12 x18 or 13x19 but cheap paper is hard to find in these sizes) which is tabloid size and places like Staples sell it cheap , so doing it this way allows you to print your own if you want .....the PDF comes as (4) 11x17 pages which you can tape together on the marks provided. If you want 1 page 24x36 ( or 22x34 ) you need to print the PDF on a 12x18 page (or 11x17) then have the Copy Shop upscale the PDF to 200 % which is why the drawing scaling should always be 1:1. *** note that if you send to layout at 1/8" scale on a 12x18 page at 200%, when printed the scale will be 1/4" so figure in your 2X size to get the reqd scale on your final Print. NOTE that Adobe Reader usually sets the default print size scale to 95%/Shrink to Fit , so you need to change that to None/100% to print at your desired scale or you wont be able to measure of your drawings. 24x36 22x34 12x18 Then print at Copy Shop @200%

Hi Tim didn't think about it yest. but I am not sure if you can open my Plan ? I use HD Pro 10 so perhaps not ? think you might need Pro too ? wasn't too much really so here is an image of the notes I made on the plan All in all JoAnn once again came thru with some nice workarounds ... learning new stuff myself M.

I didn't attach a Plan before Tim as I didn't find anything major wrong with JoAnn's plan just a couple of cosmetic things but I have marked up the plan now for you to check out. let me know when you have it so I can remove it from my post as HD is limiting Uploads now for each user and I am almost maxed out... thx. M.