Kbird1

as always post the plan / model so others can play with it in HD and or SU

post your Real plan Rick , your test plan doesn't reflect the real conditions well in regards to floor levels , width of buildings , true roof pitches etc you may have run into an age old problem in that CA/HD can not do a building of the same width with two different roofs easily, especially if the floor levels (0") are the same, not sure if that is fixed in the latest Version or not? eg try adding a shed roof addition on to the end of a gable roof house.

Bumped : Edited 1st Post to include attaching Pics and Plans to your Posts

Warren X7 Has been released and as long as you import your KARE Table .dae ( not drag and drop in plan) it now imports correctly with all the textures , I did renamed the textures by adding the letter "a" at the of their names on import to ensure no conflicts but it appears to work now, not sure if they will fix this in X6/2015 titles or not though. M.

HDA does not have Manual Roof Planes but in this particular case Posting the Plan File ( attach like the Pics) is gonna help us all , and you should get more than "guesses"

A winder staircase needs walls ( invisible if needed) to work AFAIK ( check manual) but for a single step I would use a landing rather that a staircase , you can stack them up 3 or 4 or 5 deep even if needed to make them look like stairs , it is quite often how we build them on the job too, just set the top and bottom height for each one ,so they stack up eg 0"-7" , 7" 14" ,14" 21" for 7" steps (risers). The Auto Stairwell button on the edit menu will do an automatic "open to below" opening if you click it after placing a staircase , you can do the open below your self if wanted though or just alter the auto one as needed after letting the program do it's thing.

Because you used a floating Dormer ( per CT post) you have to use JoAnn's method above to get the Room definition, then you can turn it off in the Room DBX. The Subfascia "Workaround" you have stumbled on works on that particular Roof as I suspect you have the "Trim to Soffit" box checked in the Build>Roof>Framing DBX and are using "Use Soffit Ceiling for finish" on the sloped ceiling of that porch roof. , The trim to soffit causes the Rafter overhang on a normal roof to be cut down to the size of the sub fascia , you can check that in a cross-section if needed, If it is unchecked as with open soffits the Rafter stays at full depth. You would be better off deleting those two Roof planes , editing the build Roof DBX to the correct pitch ,overhang, framing sizes etc and redrawing those two roof planes since you can't re-enable Auto Rebuild Roof Planes you said above , so it is drawn as it will be built. PS 2x6 is a very small Fascia but you know what you have there already. M.

Did that work FW ? It's the UnderArmour logo right? how do you mean it is facing the wrong way? cos it appears to be already right , just to high to sit on the Rack I am assuming the Logo is the top of the rack lying flat like a shelf , if it supposed to be a Logo standing up on the rack then DJP's advice should get it done. M.

there is a setting in Preferences>Architectural in Pro to allow stairs section to move independently though I am unsure if it will allow yo to do what you wish to do. Please post back to the thread so the next User with the same question will have an answer too , thx.

Add a Floor Beam and Posts from the Framing Tools as needed , or draw a wall and make it load bearing by checking the foundation box in the Wall's DBX which will cause a footing to build.

https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/791-reflections-in-mirrors/?hl=red%2Btint#entry4528

try updating your video drivers , PDF are Images , an many older Intel Chips need newer drivers for that to work. there has been several posts on Red images but not PDF's particularly , try searching the forum or other posts with RED 3D views etc.

you said you changed / worked on it since then M.

1st glance at plan: you need to zoom in on your landings and resize them so they are not over lapping each other 3rd straight staircase isn't as wide as the stairwell on right side, drag to drywall, also turn off "nosing at landing" checkbox. when you have 3rd stair case selected click on autostairwell icon on edit toolbar to open floor to main floor. I changed the Auto railing to an interior stair railing wall , but this cases the wall under the stairs to disappear (fixable I think) but I see something I haven't seen before ,the Balusters have no bottom, not sure if a bug or not , may have time to look again later. M.

1st know that it may not be possible to duplicate exactly 100% what you have there in the real world (ITRW) as some settings just can't be changed by anyone. For stairs to "snap" to landings they MUST be exactly the same width...if not you must put a break ( with break line tool) in the landing edge where they connect, then they will auto-join and not sit on the floor. Also have a look at the Stair information in the Manual as the Stair Tool will Auto build landings with a single click IF you build the stair in the right order ie landings last. There are other posts here about this feature too. M.

try the (re)build trim/fascia box on the Build roof dbx without turning auto build on and see if that fixes anything did you rebuild the framing after changing the Rafter size? HD doesn't do sloped crown moulding BTW. Post the plan

check the box in the railing wall DBX for Square 1/2 post at wall to get that. post the plan so others can have a play and figure it out if needed. M.

the fascia issue is cos you made the rafter and fascia the same depth (5 1/2") , fascia is always one size bigger to hide the rafter and subfascia/soffit etc. turn crown molding off in the Room DBX if you don't want it. Is auto build roof off? perhaps the roof needs to rebuild to correct these issues BUT don't do that if you have manual roof planes without checking the "save manually edited roof planes" box . you might want to make a copy of your plan and try it there 1st. PS did not open plan , will check in tomorrow when I have more time. M.

No problem , glad to help if I can , but thanks for reporting back to the Thread so future Users will know about the Issue too . Perhaps this 64bit version program is why .dae files seem to have a "model" folder zipped with them nowadays , your file was the 1st time I have seen that but I am not that familiar with MAC programs. You could always email KARE as a Design Professional and see if they are familiar with the issue so their 3D artist can also save files to older versions perhaps like you can with .skp's , if you are spec'ing their Lines they should be interested...

Good Question took a bit of digging but YES Edit>Defaults>Manual Dimensions>Edit ( or dbl click dimensions icon for defaults dbx) at the bottom of the DBX click on the Number Style Button and change it to Feet+inches. On page 62 of my manual , which point to page 89 The number style for the coordinates is controlled in the Number Style/Angle Style dialog. See “Number Style/Angle Style Dialog” on page 89.

saw this thread on CT today too on the copy method. https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/4189-combining-plans/

This is a problem in all versions but you don't say what version you or he is using , so there are different answers as different versions have different Tools. Are you using a Home Designer Title by Chief Architect or are you using Chief Architect Premier? .... if CAP you should be over on Chieftalk here: https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/forum/7-general-q-a/ But some info pulled from other threads here on this : ---Try adding the 2nd storey as a "Blank" floor instead of derived from the 1st floor , you then have to draw your own walls , 3rd floor on House may need to be set to 0" high. It is better to build all buildings at each level as you go, if possible, especially in Titles lower than Pro as you don't have the manual tools to fix problems --- Try drawing the garage in a new plan , and then Copy/paste+hold position and paste it into the original plan...

ok ...if that is what you are trying to do then Kat is correct the "Auto Stair Railings" cannot be changed except for the settings in the Staircase dialog , like spacing ,size and height , placement is automatic though. If you draw the Railing too close to the edge of the staircase it will fall to the ground , though you wont see that till you look in 3D, so it is handy to use Shift F6 to split the view so you can see what is happening. M.

posting pictures or even the Plan file are always good ideas so we can understand what you are trying to achieve otherwise we are just guessing 1/2 the time, ie I am not sure what you mean by "too close to the edge of the Step" . The solid wall at the rail bottom is do-able by placing a wall there instead of a rail or changing that part of the Rail ( wall break tool) to Solid perhaps and setting the height to the ceiling, different ways work in different situations and there is usually more than one way to do something. There are other posts here on the forum about similar question , so you could also try the search function, look for answers from User "solver" (Eric), I know he has posted on this before with images etc. M.

David's video shows another way to center objects and is very handy for placing doors and windows etc accurately in the plan too