Kbird1

Hi Keith , not a Vacation but that's why I've had more time here for the last few months but they finally said to go back to work/ live life normally and see how it goes , good timing in a way as I got a call about a Reno but as they say if you don't use it you lose it and I am not used to it , especially the rip, tear and bust of Demo. Eric and I see the odd weird thing but there is obviously a difference in how 2014 handles some stuff , like the corner of the new building ( we talked about that in another thread a few months ago) and the hole above the porch roof on that same building on the RH side. Road markings are "smart" ie they need a ROAD to attach too and you didn't used a (polyline) Road ( can use with or without a curb) which is why you don't see them I believe. not sure in 2014 but in 2016/X7 Road Markings have no thickness ( they are basically CAD Boxes with white fill) but they auto adjust to the road height once they "sense" the Road. I did notice the "road" you used ,had varying heights and thicknesses , eg some parts are 25 mm high but only 10mm thick ie they are floating 15mm above the ground... There is a KBA on doing Road Markings actually :https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00864/creating-road-markings.html I think you/they should consider communal areas for the storage sheds / carports /guest parking (many families have 2 cars too) to help consolidate those areas and give more room for wider Roads and larger yards , it should also be less expensive to Build (2) , 3 car, carports than 6 individual ones. Something like this perhaps......... PS I think Eric meant the cylinder in the Shapes Library

HI Keith still here started back at work this week , and straight into a full on demolition for a Large Reno so I've been way too tired at night to do much here this week, especially since my new helper ( the Client) hasn't helped much at all .... I might have to take his Cell off him each morning from now on.... Looks like you have been real busy too....coming along nicely, Are the old buildings at the back being turned into Apartments?. Eric has given some good advice , I was wondering about all the different colours too but if that is how they are and they don't want to change then I guess that's their choice. The Gate and Roads are too narrow in my way of thinking at only 3m , corners are too tight ( but not sure where curves are planned.) the other thing that occurred to me was how are they going to see who is coming/going on a one way driveway especially as there appears to be a 6 ft high block wall right across the property for privacy for the Units, you would be 1/2 way thru the gate before you could look into the development and up the Driveway. The end Unit on the old building could perhaps have the kitchen /bathroom areas flipped and that Unit's Carport be put next to the New Building's RH Unit Carport, perhaps even make it a Dual Carport? so the Road can be wider. May have more time on the Weekend , to go into things a bit deeper....

Opened your plan and a couple of things.... What is Code for Garage height were you are ? here it is 15' your's is currently 17'2" so you may need to lower the Pitch Your garage door is not a standard height (84" or 96") , so use an engineered header (3 ply LVL) to squeeze a 8' door in , if needed, however check with your garage door supplier as many are framed to the stated size now , as the casing /frame is actually in front of the door , so your rough opening doesn't need any allowances. You will may need a Low clearance kit for the door too if you go with an 8' door in a 9' foot ceiling garage , once again check with your local supplier. You might want to change your new TD Callout Character height to a scale of 4" for ease of use ...I am not even sure what 4 65/1285th is? use copy and paste then you don't need to fill it in every time.... test plan garage-MH .plan

uncheck Soffits or set to them 0" thickness (maybe not in Pro ? ) so make soffit material "opening -no material" (invisible) and uncheck Boxed Eave on the Options Tab in the Build roof DBX. PS you may need to Do a Roof Framing rebuild to see the effects of the changes. M.

I think you are clicking on the Gable Roof line itself ? ( which is basically just a CAD line) rather than the Roof planes created by the Gable Roof Line Tool , as it works for me in 2016 Trial .

That sounds like the Frost depth for Ohio to me Jo. , so a minimum for Code , could be way deeper too if not a Daylight Basement . M.

If you need to locate specific Tie Downs you can use Markers or Callouts like this:

Are you saying you can't select the Roof Plane as normal in Pro 2016 ? it's always been selectable in the Past.... (IN PRO) .... however if doesn't work that well if you change the Pitch afterwards (lock fascia height) as the Roof doesn't repair itself well even with Auto Roof on, which can lead to manual roof repairs. It's better , once the main Roof is done at the Correct pitch via the Build Roof DBX to go back in, turn off Auto build Roofs , change the default pitch to what you need on the new Gable , close the DBX, draw the Gable roof line, (nothing should happen), open the Build Roof DBX again, check Build Roof ( not auto) and retain manually edited and drawn roofs and then close the DBX letting the new Gable Build at the desired Pitch.....(if something is wrong , then use the Undo feature and try it again.) M.

HD usually does it Auto but if you use a framing reference on one you will likely need it on the Other to force the new layout which may not correspond to HD's auto generated one.

and the other setting under Plan defaults

Start and End are a Preferences Setting ,perhaps under CAD? Under Edit, but Edit Object Parts should not generally be left on that is why there is a toggle button and they add an icon to your cursor to remind you to turn it Off. The "show wall length as drawing " setting is really helpful too. The Walls in HD will always try to stay connected, and if within about 6" will try to auto-connect to each other , but you can set your snap settings something that works well for exterior walls eg 12" , which will help ,and then open the wall after it is drawn an alter the length if needed before drawing the next one , because as you have seen it can be frustrating, trying to do it afterwards. You can of course also break a few walls , by shortening them by a foot or more which stops the auto join and auto drag of walls to get an existing design to behave. M.

I was only thinking about the garage roof at this point , but I agree ,I think there will be the need for alot of invisible walls in Suite to get the Roofs to generate as needed. The roof on the garage isn't a Dormer, just made to look like one with that small side roof , Joanne and I helped another User about a year ago with something similar , so I think that thread is probably well worth reading , especially Jo's notes on using invisible walls. https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/140-shed-dormer-extending-whole-length-of-the-roof-how-to/?hl=%2Bsaltbox+%2Broof+%2Bfake#entry716 M.

don't know I pulled it out of the HDP10 library , Jo has HDA 10 , so perhaps.....any version since should be able to import it.

it allows you to add a Gable on a Hip roof , similar to the way the Gable over Window tool does it (or by breaking the wall and labelling the wall gable) however it can be used when you need to put a wall break where you have a door or window so a wall break wont work or if there is no wall like in an Alcove situation , I think it can be used over Bay,Box or Bow windows too

Gord , fill in your Profile Signature ( see mine below for a how to) as I think it may depend on What software you are using , do you have Pro ? then select the Roof plane and change the Pitch in the DBX (dialog Box) @Law : there is no wall to select if you use the Gable/Roof Line Tool ...not Sure if Suite has it ?

How are you trying to change them? Been a long while since I had Suite but I thought the type of Railing was determined by the Template you used for the Plan? you can change materials , I am just not sure about the Type of Baluster/Newel unless you do it manually. (might be different in 2016?)

I think Jo meant this Cabinet Trim Cabinet Trim.calibz There is actually a lot of stuff in the Old Library , not in the new but a lot of stuff has migrated to Bonus Libraries to make the initial download of the Core Content smaller. M.

Not sure if HDA has it , but there are two options for Toolbars now in Preferences depending on whether you use High Dpi Icons or not on a High DPI monitor., the change has taken some getting used to You are correct no Layers in any of the HD Product line but I am not sure if any program in that price range does?

Best Answer ...don't use the Glass Shower Wall it is a PITA , instead make your Glass Shower wall out of a Soffit , they neither break walls or Floors like that and don't do Weird stuff like a Glass "Wall" does as it doesn't have the "wall" attributes which make it cut floors ,ceilings, other walls etc. out of curiosity I wonder why is it cutting a 4 1/2 wide swath if the glass is 1/2 thick ? did you perhaps just change ALL the materials of an interior wall to glass instead of using the Glass Shower Wall in the Wall types Tab? M.

does Suite have the Bay Window tool? it allows you to build a Bay with no foundation I think.... If you have uneven wall heights split the room with a Room divider and set the ceiling height of the Room on either side to the height you need and you should get an off centre Ridge , try it in a simple test plan , move the room divider around and watch the results in a 3D window as you play. ( see below) BTW you did the right thing with the 3rd floor , it is the only way to make Rooms in the Attic , as HD's "attic" (level A) does not allow Room creation etc. Post the plan with correct heights etc so someone can help you , with a plan like this which you altered to make it "look right in 3D" , without notes on heights and correct roof pitches etc , there is really no point trying to do anything as it looks fine and we have no real idea what it should or you want it to look like. M.

Yes Bob , you would need to break your default wall type and change it to the single side Type , unless the single side Type is you default Wall , in which case you would break it to make some of it be finished both sides. M.

yes ....get a 7' garage door or raise the garage ceiling 3.5" so the beam can fit under the Top Plates...... or of course a Beam that can span that at distance without as much depth eg LVL M.

Didn't realise you already had HDA 2016........... post the Punch DXF to the thread and say pretty please , and with luck some kind Sole with Pro 2016 maybe able to import the dxf and post a .plan back for you. M.

Pro Does , even as far back as version 10 , someone else will need to advise on other Titles.

It's much simpler to do than you think Bob , it'll take longer to read this than actually do it.... -1) open wall definitions on the Build wall Menu and pick the wall type from the drop down box you want to copy ( eg, interior 4) , - 2) hit the copy button , backspace out the Word Copy and put in DWall 1S Only. ( Drywall 1 side Only) - 3) Select the interior Dry wall Layer below -4) and choose Delete , - 5) then ok to close the Wall Defs. DBX (dialog box) these might help too: https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00382/modifying-a-wall-type.html http://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-02944/defining-a-new-wall-type-in-x7.html