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You did not say which product you are using but you can use a CAD line drawn at the center lines...dimensions love to snap to CAD lines...

I had the same issues...Solver gave me a tip about this being caused by 2 different exterior wall surfaces applied to the same wall...he showed me the pony wall fix and the "ghosting" disappeared...hope this helps... OTOH...your attempt to model such an elegant and diverse model and floor plan gets a big thumbs up!!! Regards Rick

I just registered for the terrain webinar...looking forward to seeing how the programmers are thinking...

Welcome to the terrain frustration club...even with over 50 years of playing with the dirt on job sites, I too find the terrain building process to be quite a bit less than intuitive..but here is my take on it...IMO, and I have done it both ways, I find no advantage in building terrain first...too many variables as the plan develops...especially when dealing with sloped terrain and a walkout basement.... With help from others on the site I have been able to fight my way through the maze...understanding how different dialog box choices affect the outcome is paramount to getting satisfactory results...The terrain specifications "flatten" terrain checkbox has a big effect on how the terrain follows the building...JOAnne helped me with that one...but conversely the 'flatten terrain region" checkbox kind of works in a different manner...I have battled the jumping up and down of adjacent terrain regions and found that adjusting the subfloor height works better than trying to chase the terrain when it jumps... Please post the plan so we can see what it actually looks like and hopefully you can provide some input into what you are looking for in the end result... Hope this helps a little... Regards Rick

Tyler The software is for graphic representation of building design...Depending on the code jurisdiction, engineered systems such as beams, trusses and engineered floor systems may/will require sealed drawings and layouts from a structural engineer licensed in your state. Some areas have stricter regulations on what can be built without any type of sealed drawings...for instance...in the areas I design in, most any residential structure under 3500 sq feet requires no engineering for basements and framing unless trusses or floor systems are used...typical construction standards of design and workmanship need to be met...additional software would be needed but sealed drawings will like still be necessary... Regarding the truss/floor system engineering, sealed engineering drawings and layouts are provided by the truss supplier with the purchase of the product Hope this helps Regards Rick

David Do you think my observation that the pictures on the internet don''t match the plans is correct...When I realized that little piece of information in the small print, the front wall height problem you so aptly described made more sense... The OP wanted the vault ceiling...as I mentioned earlier, I was easily able to create a 5/12 vault after fixing the ceiling heights...with your plan, am I seeing ceiling planes with a plate height of 12'... Regards

David I looked at this plan last night. I changed the ceiling heights to all be 9' and then built ceiling planes under the great room roof...it built a perfectly centered vault ceiling like the OP requested...then I looked at the big picture and noticed the fine print that appears below the pretty pictures...it says the photographs may not be the same as the plan due to owner modifications...at my skill level it became 4th and 40...I punted...your tenacity is amazing...I learned a lot from this video...your abilities to interpret what you see in these projects and how to remedy the situation is uncanny...thanks for all you do!!! Regards Rick

Is this the look you are seeking? If so...I deleted the room dividers...reset the garage floor and stem walls to -6" and used the slab tool to add a 6" curb at perimeter which brought it to floor level 0"... I moved your cars... Hope this helps Regards Rick Garage-Levels rev.plan

Ok...I will stick my neck out a bit...you have received advice from two of the most generous helpers on the forum...Their wisdom and experience have helped so many... I, on the other hand am a “constructor” first and a software user with developing skills...as mentioned earlier, the accuracy of your model will absolutely determine the results of your material list... You do not tell us your experience or skill sets...they are extremely important to obtaining your definition of success...learning how the software interprets your inputs is the great trick...I have been building for over 50 years and designing on the drawing board almost as long...when on the board, I control the “ construction process” using my experiences to drive results...you will find that this is not how the program works...the info you enter for defaults is paramount to getting the model to look as you wish...my advice is to practice with the program with simple box building and change defaults to see their affects...you will likely have a few “ why did it do that” moments...use the contextual help offered by the use of the F1 key...it provides instant information about the operation you are attempting... Good luck , remember it is a dumb tool you are using and have a bit of fun Regards

Jo Anne Thanks so much for the tutorial...I never really wanted to use retaining walls...your advice on some grade changes and especially the unflatten pad tip were the game changers...voila... no retaining walls...I attached the plan again because I don't know the techniques for other attachments,,,maybe someone can help me learn them...it looks great and even has my RV pad included Once I got the elevations where you placed them...I used 50 years of playing in the dirt experience to manuever the elevation planes where I needed them...the couple of areas that still need a bit of attention can be fixed with a flat shovel and a rake... Thanks again Regards Rick Kingston_Ranch_WO_revision_2.plan

I have been trying for many, many hours to build the needed walkout terrain plan for my own house project. I have read all the knowledge base articles and watched the videos...I have used elevation lines, areas, flat area modifiers and chants to the terrain gods...still can't get it anywhere close to right...I have 40 plus years of real world dirt experience...I could have done all the dozer work required to grade the site in the time I have spent working on this terrain model...the desired grade profile for the front and left side are acceptable...attempts to lower the grade for the walkout result in dislocation of the driveway elevation...creating a mini skateboard park...retaining walls were not originally part of the design but are acceptable...the flat area depicted with the hatched part between garage and house will provide a platform for the A/C compressor...any help will be much appreciated... Regards Rick Kingston_Ranch_WO_revision_2_terrain_questions.plan

I realize that the likes/dislikes poll is really meaningless as long as no decorum violations have been committed...somebody dinged me for my only post on this thread...why would you ding a member here for providing real world experiences to a new member? Someone who has asked for help in deciding which version to buy...the anonymous nature of the system encourages cowardice...whoops...might get dinged again... Regards Rick

thammond Welcome to the club and to this site...You will find that the experienced users of Chief Architect are excellent tutors and very giving of their time...I will offer this unsolicited opinion on the various versions of HD 2021... I am a very experienced constructor but a some what weak software guy.As I searched this forum prior to making my decision I quickly learned that to build models in the real world mode I needed to get HD2020Pro...Eric and DJP, two prolific tutors on this site can virtually build any model you can dream...and they understand how the tool works...and the steepest part of the learning curve is learning how the program does what it does...extensive construction knowledge does not always help you solve problems...you can't bully the software into "thinking" like you...conversely, when you gain experience, that knowledge allows you to look into the model and determine what is actually happening...good or bad... Without knowing your background but reading between the lines when you said you might have to build roofs manually, I think you would be better served by looking at the trial version of Pro...yes, it is more money but it does so much more...my 2 cents worth...donated for free Happy Trails in your search... Regards Rick

Thanks Eric...I did the corrections you suggested and they helped a lot...but in the process I noticed that the roof returns were set to flat...as soon as I set the returns to slope... I attacked the visual problem with the exposed framing by looking at how it was framed...I changed the fascia to 8.5 inches tall and the sub fascia to 7.25 inches...I then set the ceiling soffit height at 94"...exposed framing was gone and I had a nice looking reveal... I mean it when I say thank you to you and the other experts on this site for your help... Regards Rick

Thanks Eric...I will try to duplicate your efforts but the pony wall process is a bit muddy in my mind...I will dive in after dinner...

Eric, Thanks for the video...never occurred to me to use a pony wall...but....the problem I was kludging a fix for is still there...the hole in the wall looking into the porch roof cavity...I pulled the surfaces around to try to hide it...I could make it go away but still got ghosting...

By layers I meant deleting surfaces then deleting the wall itself...when I embarked on the mission to fix this better than I had kludged it there were 4 click deletes needed to get the wall to disappear...and you are correct as usual...I dragged some planes around to try to cover the gap...knowing full well that it was using a band-aid when a tourniquet was needed...

One more question regarding the soffit I placed in the front porch ceiling...I did that to hide some sins at the ceiling/overhang junction...I have tried to hide the exposed framing when this ceiling models...I realize it only can be seen when looking up and back towards the OH but I would not build it that way so I want to model it how it builds in the real world...is it a fascia/sub-fascia specification issue...maybe you can help there as well...

Eric, That is one of the tricks I knew...and I deleted all the layers on that wall...I deleted down to the attic walls which, as far as I know, never completely go away...I was very careful when I built this revision from scratch to avoid the attic wall conundrum and all walls were modeled as expected...The problem arises when I change the gables from B&B to fiber lap...when I try to change the attic wall to fiber lap the whole model changes...the lap siding is applied with the material dropper/painter...all surfaces react as expected except this one... The model was built in 3 phases; the main house with 40' span,,, then the interior walls for the porches and then the garage with full overhangs...it built exactly as I expected until the porch walls are made into railings...Rear porch is set as a balcony and blew off the entire return...front porch rail build changed the OH to 36'return...I manually built the return on the rear and extended to the wall...I just made the front to match...I admit this was frustrating...Sorry for the long winded explanation but help is needed... Regards Rick

I have spent a bunch of time trying to resolve an attic wall gable end that ghosts the default board and batten siding through the lap siding that was I changed...the wall is the attic wall over the main house at the utility room...you can see the flickering between the two surface types...i believe it is an attic wall issue...I have tried all the tricks I know of to rebuild(???) the wall to remove the obvious wall staggers...I even cheated on tho porch ceiling by putting a soffit under its ceiling,,,it is strange because the same defaults and overhang builds are on the backside balcony were implemented...This is not a game changer in the overall plan development but this will be my house and I want to use as much skill in modeling it as possible...Time to call in the experts... Thanks Regards Rick Kingston_Ranch_WO_revision_2.plan

Please post both what version of HD you are using and the plan. It is difficult to help without seeing your plan settings or how the model is being constructed by the software. To post plan, please close it in HD First and then attach it to the post...file size needs to be less than 25 mb... Regards

Close the plan in HD2021...make sure it is less than 25meg....attach to a new reply...send...

Andy I built a second floor and opened the stairwell...I patched together the end walls to show the room...I did not delve into all the defaults or any of the manual roof work you have done...maybe this will give you a starting point... Regards 5-pier plan lacking attic trusses-2.plan

Hi Andy I opened your plan and do not see any 2nd floor at all...what are you thinking about for a floor plan upstairs...need a second floor layout to get started down the road to trusses... I will pass on a bit of advice I was given by DJP...don't get lost in trying to build attic trusses...Chief does not provide engineered trusses...only artwork...the truss mfg will be the final arbiter as to what you end up with for room width...roof pitch will determine the ceiling height...a stick built frame up of the second floor will provide an approximate room size... Edit: I would like to expand on my comment about DJP’s advice. As an experienced constructor, it was difficult for me to step away from “truss” design. I wanted to have a somewhat accurate idea about what size room was available after truss design. Just last week I had a design discussion with the truss supplier. He provided information I was not cognizant of about scissor and vault type trusses that did make sense but was in conflict with my design needs...in the design I am working with now, I wanted a half vault ceiling with a 9 pitch roof and a six pitch ceiling plane...not possible for reasons which I was unaware...so 4 pitch is what we get...this is caused because the truss at 38’ span and 9 pitch has to be a piggy back design...I only bring this up because Andy’s 12 pitch with a 36’ span will likely trigger a similar result...likely but not certainly...only the truss builder really knows...hope this helps and not confuses... Hoping this helps Regards Rick

Eric Many thanks again for all you do to help on this site (and on Chief talk)... Keeping in mind that I am a construction guy and not too computer savvy, I have to confess that I have no idea how to accomplish what you suggested... Regards Rick