DavidJPotter

Just from the images you posted it is hard to be sure exactly what you did and why. If you will make sure your settings are correct for the first floor and that "Edit - Default Settings - Foundation" are properly set for how you intend to build and then auto-build your foundation based upon proper settings then you would not get what you are showing us (it looks like you manually drew those foundation stem walls and then did not close or manually align them with the first floor walls (This is done automatically when you preset up your foundation settings and then just order it built under the "Build" menu). The software will by default align the outer edge of stem walls to the outer edge of structural framing layers of the walls above unless you order them not to with custom settings or if you manually draw stem walls using the "Wall Tool" and then skip aligning them manually which looks to me like what you have done. What did you actually do, I wonder? Here is a link to a You Tube Video I made intended to help you out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2l7L5gntl1A&feature=youtu.be DJP

Yes, the software always follows your settings, once they are relationally correct your foundation will be also whether set manually or auto, settings are King. If your settings are wrong, all else will also be wrong. DJP

What you are trying to do can be done but does require a lot of preplanning and trial and error to tweak in and create the final results. What you must do is to draw all your structures at the same time, in the same plan but you must then adjust, manually, the floor and ceiling heights of each enclosed structures relative to how they relate to each other in terms of topographic relative heights. It requires planning and patience (I would work out on paper the relative floor and ceiling heights and then apply that to each enclosed structure and then build roofs only after all floors and structures are verifyably set up properly. The difficulty is that the software is programmed on the premis that whatever is in the plan is treated the same so that places the burden of exactness on the end user (you) to pre program enclosed spaces to achieve a specific outcome. Here is an example The rear most building's floor is 15' higher than the buildings in the foreground in the image. No single structure is exactly the same floor height to the other buildings. After I got the building models set up only then did I start to modulate the terrain plane to match the buildings, then adding the driveways and parking lots. You work out the first floors only and when all is then correct only then do you create foundations for all structures. Roofs are built last. Here is a link to a Knowledge Base Help Article that addresses this problem in detail: http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00564/ DJP

I usually save-as or save the on line PDF Reference Manual to my hard drive, which from my point of veiw makes it easier to search for specific content. Try that and see if it works for you as well please. With a PDF document or even just a browser window you can use the keyboard command "CTRL-F" and then search the document or web page. With a PDF file you can also "Advanced Search" using the keyboard command "Shift-CTRL-F" as well. DJP

The Reference Manual in this case and in my opinion is unnecessary. If you select each layer in the Wall Specicicatioin Dialog, one at a time that layers material will be displayedin the upper right-hand "Select Material" part of the dialog. Each wall layer can be adjusted as to its width value and its material assignment changed, all in this dialog. Where you have an arrow with a question markis not a layer at all but rather a line dividing the outter layer from the next layer inboard. You can see that the dialog box for "Siding 6" contains 5 layers (siding then moisture wrap, then sheathing, then framing and lastly interior sheetrock or drywall. (all shown in image #1) In the dialog image for "thick siding" there are only four layers If you actually confront those dialogs, they by themselves, tell you what is what. DJP

I had to finish a custom home set of plans today, so earlier I just read what you posted and responded. This evening, I downloaded your plan to look at it. the second floor is programmed to be an "attic", there is no space on the second floor called "Study" at all (perhaps you worked on this since you first posted it?), I suggest you read and employ the aritcles suggested and then apply that to your plan. If you then still have trouble, post a newer copy of the paln please. it is up to you to clearly communicate your problems with text and image captures. Unclear communications cause us to guess and I am betting that most of us would rather answer than guess. DJP

Whenever I get goofy behavior or simple commands and functions start to not comply, I save my work and reboot the software. This has been true from time to time since I started. It does not happen often but it does happen. From plants, you will just have to learn the "Scientific Name" of plants and trees, that is how they are organized, I often use Wikipedia to find out what the name of an oak tree etc is and then look it up in the software. Not fancy but it is workable within the way it is programmed to work. DJP

The "Attic" setting automatically sets the floor joists to 2" x 6" which will not structurally support living space, so that is a "no-no" programming wise (wrong setting). Any space programmed as :"attic" will not be counted as "Living Space" by the software. the open below space gets that specific name after which it will have that attribute of open below. A "Study" should be named "Study". Names if this software are not just "names", rather they are specific programming commands for a space enclosed by walls. Each space enclosed by walls can and does have a Room Specification Dialog with a Structure Tab which gives you control over that space's attributes as to ceiling and floor. Both of the articles Jo_Ann posted above are gold so be sure to study them to see how they appy to what you are doing. DJP

I suppose you mean a structure with open sides (a series of posts holding up a beam for the roofs. The only difference between a "barn" and a "house" is its size.and purpose as defined by its creator. Any enclosed space by walls can be programmed and roofed in any Home Designer title or version. The main difference between Essentials and other titles is "choice" and detail. Only you can decide if Essentials fulfills your needs. Without knowing in detail what you intend, what you find acceptable, I just say that you should get started and see for yourself. If you require more choice and ability then you can upgrade at any time, DJP

Default settings can be reset or customized at any time by you. I have no idea how they changed (I wasn't there) but I do know you can control them via "Edit - Default Settings" at any time. I do not recommend using an Archive file other than as a last resort, if all else fails (that is what those files are for, not just for settings changes). DJP

I like your design, very well done! DJP

Interiors does not have a wall elevation tool like Home Designer Pro does, so what I would do if all I had was Interiors would be to add Text annotations to the plan view where needed and then make image-renders of the cabinets using your camera tools adding text annotations using Microsoft Paint or similar image editing software as a substitute for the non-existant wall elevation type tool commonly used for kitchen design plans. DJP

Like Eric said, you can delete dimensions, manual or automatic for the entire plan and start over or just delete them on a single floor using "Edit - Delete Objects" dialog, you can also just select dimension strings and delete that single, selected string or manually edit any dimension string, your choice. DJP

The squeeky wheel is the one that gets oiled. But on the other hand measurieng units are just that and the important units are the ones that you use; how those values are input and why is the important factor. Values are either positive or negative but after that is is where and why you apply those values that is the important point. Not how they are stated. DJP

Mick is speaking of the "Signature LIne" that is available at the bottom of posts here. Personalized data can be added and automatically displayed when one posts here. It is useful to people who are interested in helping others to know a little about the persons' computer and what software they are using (each title has differing abilities and tools). See the bottom of all my posts as an example where I list how to contact me, what software I use and a little about my PC. DJP

One of the largest sources of "slow down" in a plan (especially if your computer is OK with other applications) is the download and use of 3D symbols in your plan from Sketch Up. Although 3D Warehouse can be a boon and the symbols are "free", many of them are poorly made and can bloat a plan file's "3D Face Count", adding so many unnecessary objects to compute per second that many a computer is slowed down trying to keep up with poorly made (if free) 3D symbols. The symbols that ship with the program and that you can download from Chief Architect Inc are optimized for use in Home Designer and Chief Architect Premier unlike the lack of quality from home made free symbols at 3D Warehouse (some of them are well made but many of them are not). Remove any such symbols from your plan and see if that helps. Otherwise please contact Chief Architect Inc Tech Support for workable help and technical assistance. DJP

You should speak to Chief Architect Inc Tech Support to get a useful answer. Some of us end users have had problems and solved them but this sounds like it is specific to you and your PC or Mac. Tech Support is the place to get useful advice for these types of problems. Here you will only get opinions of persons with limited experience of their own machines. I have used their software since 1994 with zero problems but I always make sure that my current PC has well above "minimum requirements" for the software I use professionally (as much above minimum requirements as I can afford). DJP

Use a trash compactor and then call it a Dishwasher, no one can tell the difference at a glance. DJP

Manually by direct manipulation of its geometric shape. Take a look at this You Tube video where I manually do roof planes; http://djpdesigns.net/html/join_roofs.htm DJP

Probably "Foundation Defaults" or "Floor One Defaults" or both. You are right to assume you have some incorrect settings (that is THE reason 99.99% of the time). Find and correct those settings and then all will be well. Make sure you well understand what all the settings do, what they are for and where they are (time well spent). DJP

That is controlled by whether or not "Angle Snaps" is "on" or "Off", with them off it is near impossible to draw anything straight or at right angles. DJP

You can select any objects (including roof planes) and move them precisefly using the "Transform-Replicate tool" see this tutorial You Tube Video for a demonstration of how this tool works: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjyUx4edaqY You build your roofs and then raise them manually 18" or whatever you require using this tool. There are other methods available in Home Designer Pro but I prefer this one. DJP

Dimension tools function in elevation-cross section camera views but often times one must place CAD objects there for dimension strings to measure to and from (Not all Architectural 3D objects dimension easily in such camera views but can be done, easily once you see what works and what does not). Dimensioning does not function in isometric views though some isometric views can be sent to layout or printed at a predefined scale (not the same things as dimension strings). What exactly have you done or tried that did not work? DJP

HD Pro 8 was deisgned to run properly within Windows XP and perhaps Vista & Windows 7. If you are trying to run it in Windows 8 that is probably the problem. What is the operating system you are now trying to use it in? I run older legacy versions of Chief Premier and Home Designer but I do so on a separate hard drive that runs on Windows XP and if you do not want to get versions of the latest release then you need to run Home Designer Pro 8 within an environment created for and by Windows XP.. It is not surprising that you are having trouble with legacy software if you are trying to use it in a way it was not designed to be used. DJP

Here is another video with window and doors installed with framing: http://youtu.be/0jH_rNVXQyY DJP