y-g-m-n

No reason to have in floor plan. Create a window and door list

you need different molding choice that has a top and has flat vertical surface on back wall side. Stock choices kinda crappy IMO. The content library has Windsor One Moldings which has some good choices for lintels

what year software? Shingles are under main library ROOFING and then manufacturers if yo go download from their site (might have to pay unless you have 2026 subscription based.)

PS you should install tile on walls as custom backsplash not molding.

Ditto to above. molding is meant for those cross section shapes in library to be "Extruded" around room.

well what fixed it? Curious peeps wanna know

can you post picture of PLAN with CROSS SECTION Camera location/lines

it is a WIN safety thing. might need to lower your security settings to allow you to download but it looks like it downloaded and is just giving you warning about opening it. what comes up when you click SEE MORE? If it downloaded click the download arrow button and OPEN FOLDER for downloads. then you can RUN/open file by right clicking on it and hit RUN AS ADMIN.. BUT make sure you trust it else an EXE file is an executable which if written by BAD guys can kill your computer or give you virus etc.

have you checked for each door/opening under the FRAMING tab what the headers are set at? Why would you set them @ 3.5" Depth (height) or width? for a load bearing wall the depth depends on the opening free span and if your door width is less than or equal to 49" you should get 3.5" which i see it drawn in your framing picture. But you want to leave that default table set as when you purchased software as it pretty much goes by the Lumber tables for header sizing. Remember headers are for Doors, windows and any other wall opening and meant for load bearing walls but framing crews will fit them on all wall openings even those not load bearing since it is just what they do and know and play it safe for little money. you would not want a 2x4 going across an opening of 10ft with a hip roof load on top....

Pro 7? never heard of that version Latest is subscription based titled HD 2026 one before that was HD 2025 etc based on year it. OR do you mean Chief Architect X17?

or make each step from a SLAB. SO first on on terrain then stack them on top and located. PS it is good to have top step (LANDING) be 4ft out from edge of door opening. This allows people room to stand and open door and other safe things.

me I would not worry about framing around the door and just stick in a door into your ICF wall... MAke it look pretty in 3d.... for the wife or whoever you are making this for. IF you need site detailed drawing - well then I would use something else... HD is not perfect nor can do everything - for that you need the pricey CA.

maybe try Play & adjusting variables in the: JAMB, CASING, LINTEL, ROUGH OPENING and FRAMING sections in the door edit screen until you get what you want - lots of ways to cheat here knowing what each does. under framing you set header size or go to default and how it is built along with side framing of jack and king studs sies and qty etc, As always have the help scree open so it can help you - very powerful tool the help screen Then use a stock door so you can set width and all the other variables like the arch at the top. If all that does not work - maybe first set in a door opening to dims of cutout and turn off all the trim (casing, jamb & lintal.) Turn off framing etc. Then see if you can add door inside? Never done this so I would just have to play with the tools ya got.

So they framed inside an opening for the door? I am guessing the outside stucco material lines up. Does the inside sheetrock or is the door framed opening inset? When it is all finished what will be different there? I mean if nothing then just stick your door in the main wall and forget about this framing.

Change NUMBER STYLE (pretty much on lower left of any object edit screen) to Number Style = DECIMAL FEET Ange Style =Quadrant bearing Then draw a line and then edit it to length and angle written on plot plan. do this for the 3 straight sides. Then move them so they connect at proper ends. then draw in arc and edit it to match info on plot plan. Easy Peasy. I have tried it where you draw rough shape then edit lines but it is PIA as you have to be sure what is locked start or end else it changes other lines. Now what you may find out is it is not perfect due to rounding on surveyors part so just choose one to be the error part like maybe the radius. Here is your plot plan: The arc is the part I had to make work as I figure that is easier to mess up than others. IT is just a poly line you need to convert it to TERRAIN. plot plan.plan