Elovia

I would guess that the file or template has somehow become corrupted. I was able to view the house in the 3D overview camera, but something appears to be wrong with the plan view. My first inclination was to see if you had inadvertently placed an item very far away from the rest of your model. After opening the file, I don't believe that is the case. I suggest that you send your save file to Tech Support so that they can diagnose and advise you better. Good luck.

You can save yourself time if you have long distances of linear elevation difference ... meaning straight (not necessarily flat) runs. You only really need to add closely spaced break lines to smooth the curved sections.

Yes, this can be done in HDPro ... in one of a couple different ways. First and easiest is to model the complex top shape in SketchUp or similar and then import and place atop your wall. The second and more complicated way would be to use the method I described a few weeks back to another user. Please see the following thread: https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/2328-sloping-half-wall/ Neither method is 100% perfect, but the quality of your output depends heavily on the time devoted and attention to detail. Good luck.

For katalyst777: Mobo = motherboard I have the same video card (nice!) but with an older ASUS motherboard. I haven't tried any version of HD in Win10 yet.

Those "odd visual effects" are the result of having the exterior surface of the pony wall exactly co-planar to the foundation wall. To avoid the visual effect (also called z-fighting), you would need to re-align the foundation wall slightly (greater than zero difference from the pony wall), adjust relative thicknesses, or apply some other method to ensure the volume of pony wall face material is constructable over the face of the foundation stem wall. I'll leave the details to you for your project. This is why I originally recommended using a soffit with the desired material applied and placing it up against the wall, so that the material has thickness in and of itself (and HDSuite, used by the original poster, can accomplish this technique). Otherwise, spend time creating a new pony wall type with the correct materials, main build layer placement and layer thicknesses, so that when you drag the lower portion of the pony wall down over your foundation wall, it actually curtains the exterior surface of the foundation rather than embeds within it. If all you want is a pretty picture (not judging: that may be the desired outcome), then changing the textures to match may be all that is necessary. Good luck.

If you want to use a pony wall with the lower portion set to have a stone or brick surface, you may. In an exterior 3D camera view, you should be able to select the lower portion of the pony wall (i.e., the stone or brick portion) which may require you to TAB a couple times until what you want is actually selected (depending on your settings). Then, grab the lower edge of the lower wall and drag it down to cover your exposed foundation; likewise, you can drag the top up or down to vary the height, or drag a corner up or down to create an angle. I know of no way of doing this solely using automatic tools. You may also use the Break Line tool from the object tool bar to change the shape of the lower wall section. See if this is the result you seek. Keep in mind this software does no engineering, so whatever you do, make sure the design is constructable (not all are) and that it meets local building codes (not all do). Good luck.

If you haven't already, make sure you upgrade the drivers for your video card to the latest version. Otherwise if that doesn't help, David's advice to check with tech support is your next option. Good luck.

I've always found throw pillows to be awkward to place. That said, you can place them in your drawing, select them and by holding down the "CTRL" key drag them over a piece of furniture such as a sofa. You can adjust the height of the pillow either in the pillow's specification dialog box, or by selecting and dragging it in a 3D camera view. To get the most natural placement, which taken for what it is, I usually partially bury the pillow in the sofa or chair padding ... and usually place more than one. It still looks a little awkward and not very natural, but it does convey a setting. Good luck.

With a fair bit of work, it can be done in HDPro, but I'm not sure it can be done in HDInteriors. Here is my technique applied in Pro (I don't have Interiors so cannot verify it works in that title): After drawing the wall, I viewed it in a back-clipped camera. I then drew a CAD arc on the face of the wall in the shape of the desired curved slope. I then drew a vertical CAD line from the tallest height of the wall to below the lowest point of the arc, and used the Transform/Replicate tool to create many copies offset from each other by 3". Then I selected the wall and used the Break Wall tool on the wall where the top of the wall was crossed by a CAD line. Once all the wall breaks were in place, it was a simple matter to snap the new vertices to the intersection of the CAD line and arc. The smaller the space between CAD lines, the smoother the curve will appear. You could use smaller than 3" spacing. It just depends on how much work you're willing to put into it for the desired results. Good luck.

See if this knowledge base article helps: https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00863/rotating-the-direction-of-a-material.html Good luck.

Barring the suggestion by scottharris, you can create an arched ceiling shape in SketchUp and then import it into your hallway; this is likely to be a rectangular block with a concave curved surface on the underside.. This is probably the easiest (or only) way for HDSuite. Alternatively, with significantly more work, you can create a barrel ceiling in HDPro using many ceiling planes similar to the following knowledge base article, but using ceiling planes instead of roof planes: https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-01187/creating-a-barrel-roof.html Good luck.

Perhaps. Please let us know what you're trying to achieve and why you need to use the lock chord option for the arc. Often is the case in geometric problems that there is more than one way to arrive at the same conclusion. For example, if you have a chord start point and bearing and also know the location of the arc center, you can draw a CAD Arc with the help of a CAD Line and a CAD Circle; the line would originate at the known end point, and the circle radius can be set in its property dialog, then drag it to the known arc center. Now use the draw arc tool to connect the chord points of intercept with the circle, select the arc and drag/snap its curve to the circle using the appropriate grip. There are other ways depending on your known information with which you're starting. Help us help you by giving us a better picture of what geometric information you have available and what you're trying to achieve with it so we can provide better (more accurate) guidance. Good luck.

Soffits will acquire crown (or base) molding if the room is defined for such and if they're connected to a room defining wall that has crown (or base) molding. If you do not want crown molding on ceiling beams, you have several choices of items top use instead: slabs, beams, or shapes. Hope this helps.

Use an inverted wedge from the shapes library to close the triangular opening besides the stairs. While the software is good at what it does, it cannot model every design choice automatically. Sometimes you need to manually adjust for your given solution, such as in the case identified. Hope this helps.

HD Pro, HD Architectural, and HD Suite have a tool called the Plant Chooser in which you may select plants by their common name. See the KB article linked below: https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00936/using-the-plant-chooser.html Hope this helps.

Soffits will display only one material on all surfaces, so if it is important to maintain a wall covering over the face of the soffit different from the "ceiling" material on the underside, as shown in the picture in the original post, then you may also need to use a thin veneer (~1/16") soffit with the appropriate material applied.

I do not understand the question. Or you've asked and answered it yourself. Create the bump out sections of your 10' ceiling height room to either side of the fireplace, and then fill the ceiling space in each with a roughly 2-ft deep soffit. Hope this helps.

Select all dimension lines and zoom in to see the locations to where the ends of them actually point. Make sure they point to the location that you think they should. You may be able to adjust an end point by dragging it to a new location (e.g., from outside wall board to inside wall board, or vice versa). Good luck.

Since you have Pro ... Yes. See the "Front" tab in the base cabinet specification dialog.

I probably would model that step using one or more slabs. If you want a nosing on the step tread, then model the tread using either a soffit or custom countertop. Think that the step is similar to the soffits that surround a tray ceiling, only they're on the floor. Edit to add in link: See the below-linked thread for an approach to your step challenge: https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/137-tray-and-vaulted-ceilings-and-wall-affects/#entry712

Dave, Draw your two LINES as described in the article. Hereafter they'll be referred to as LINE 1 and LINE 2. It may be helpful to turn on the option to edit object parts. Draw a CAD arc between the outer end points of LINE 1 and LINE 2. Make sure the arc is concave in the correct direction as shown on your plat. Draw a CAD line (hereafter referred to as the layout line) from the midpoint of the arc to the center of the arc. You may need to turn on the option to show arc centers and ends. Extend the end of the layout line that is at the center of the arc some distance away from your arc. Draw a CAD circle and set its radius to the desired arc radius. Move the circle so its center is on the layout line. When positioning the circle on the layout line, make sure the circle's circumference is to the left of the LINE 1 end point. Now select and move the layout line from the point at the midpoint of the arc to the point at the end of LINE 1 using the point-to-point move tool found on the edit object toolbar. The layout line should now intercept the circle's circumference. Select the circle and using the point-to-point move tool found on the edit object toolbar, move it from the point where the circle intercepts the layout line to the point at the end of the LINE 1. If you've done this correctly, your circle should now pass through the end of LINE 2. Now select your arc and drag the trianglular grip to snap to the circumference of the circle. Delete the circle and the layout line, and you should now have CAD lines/arcs that match your plat. Good luck, and hope this helps.

I don't want this question to languish. There used to be a way to migrate those files, and I did that from 3D Home Architect to HDPro 8 or 10 (i don't recall correctly which because it was a long time ago). I suppose once that migration occurred, one could export the library items from the intermediate HDPro software and then import them into a more modern version. The issue is that library items have come over the years in several different file formats, and the original file format is no longer directly compatible with or recognized by the newer software versions. Unfortunately, I can't recall how I did the original migration; it had something to do with copying a folder (in the Windows environment) from one location to another. I'm getting too old and my memory isn't what it used to be. There also used to be a knowledge base article (or was it in the reference manual?) on how to do this, but I'm sure it has since lapsed into obsolescence with newer software versions. All I can suggest is keep looking, and if you have the intermediate software resources, you may be able to find the solution. Good luck.

I'm reminded of the following: Q: How do you eat an elephant? A: One bite at a time.

Something to check, Frank ... do you have a center snap setting in Suite? And if so, is it turned on?

I'm fairly sure not much has changed regarding this program limitation since 2010 when I sumitted the following post on the old legacy Hometalk forum: You won't be able to use the automatic Window Tools to create a corner glass window in the Home Designer line of software. The closest you'll get is with a fat mullion in the corner, as you might have already discovered. BUT ... given sufficient time, determination and attention to detail, you can create a reasonable model of one. It all depends on your abilities and desire. Shown below is a corner window built completely out of soffits (i.e., every piece of the corner walls*, not including the roof system). It was a fair bit of exacting work. I could have left off the sash in the outer corner, but I left it for detail; a pure glass corner is difficult to see in the render. Cautionary note: These types of window systems really need careful scrutiny by a licensed structural engineer, to ensure they will support any required load. The images drawn below are good examples of things that may be drawn or sketched but are not easily reproduced in the real world. Good luck. *Edit in to add: The walls are true walls to allow the building of the roof system, except that the partial walls where the window is placed are invisible. The items built out of soffits include: replacement visible walls above and below the window (interior and exterior soffits above and below), the window trim, the window sash and sill, and the window glass.