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Recreation No.2 Theater and Music
ValMcCall commented on Chief_Content's gallery image in Members Albums Category
I've used this program sin e 2011. Musical instruments were free until most recently. Now, any design that I have created with same, the instruments are gone. That's not right. -
2 story house foyer 1 PNG.png
DonCastelluccio commented on DonCastelluccio's gallery image in Members Albums Category
I use soffits at the top and bottom of the walls as I can add mouldings to those that match the rest of the room mouldings when needed. For the vertical pieces and other horizontal pieces that are not at the top or bottom of the wall I used the closed box found in the library under shapes. - Yesterday
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Yes, that is basically my problem. I finally ended up sending an email off to the truss manufacturer to see if they'll be able to incorporate the interior soffits into the trusses so that the outside wall can effectively be lowered to allow for enough insulation at the top plates. I'm envisioning the plates on the outside wall to be in the same plane with with the bottom of the interior soffits. Hopefully they'll know what I'm asking. I could probably do this with a more elaborate roof, but I'm trying to keep is simple to keep the costs down and to avoid leaks. I might have to take that ceiling down to 11', but I think that's a waste since construction materials (drywall, sheathing, etc.,) are built around 8', 9', and 12' heights.
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I think what you are saying, is that using soffits for the trey ceiling will not build your framing correctly, to show a lower wall/ceiling on the exterior family room wall. Maybe this approach will get what you want?
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I was also trying to provide more space for the chandelier in the entry way by cutting into the soffit in the family room, while also making that part of the soffit only 12" high, instead of 24" high. Once I started doing that and adding crown molding to the family room all kinds of strange things started happening as I could not for the life of me stop the crown molding from generating in a six inch space of the entry. Image 5 shows what happens when I try to move that soffit out of the entryway to make the entryway ceiling space larger. Then the crown molding wraps around the soffit and into the entryway! It's not room molding as room molding won't draw on the soffit, I have to use soffit molding. This is just a nightmare. FWIW, the room molding draws on two of the five soffits. It won't draw on the shorter soffit of the soffit along the wall in image 5, and it won't draw on one of the outside walls. I don't want crown molding on the soffit that's on the side of the entryway ceiling as shown in images 5 & 7.
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Solver - I was trying to knock down the height of this wall, in the red rectangle by using soffits or a manual ceiling plane about 12" - 18" deep. I don't think it can be built and insulated with the top chord sitting right on the plate like that.
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Jo_Ann, I'm trying to lower the ceilng at the edge though, not raise it. If the program is rebuiding then I took that to mean that the ceiling was running into the roof. I was trying the soffits, or the lowered ceiling plane, to get it under the existing roof structure. I realize if I use the default on the buffet it will have the knobs in the right place, but my actual hutch that I own is NOT the default size so the default one really doesn't do me any good. Solver, I had 10' ceilings to begin with. along with taller windows. Then I started talking to the 'energy vanguard' gurus (actually well respected well known people) about the Manual J, S, T, D, etc., who turned me in the opposite direction. Add to that the fact that I want the ductwork in the basement ceiling/main level floor, I was told to reduce the size of the windows and go with 9' ceilings as a default (like the bedrooms, laundry, bathrooms, etc.) So, the only way to reduce the window sizes and still have high ceilings that look good is to put a soffit around the perimeter. I had it looking pretty good, it looked like a tray ceiling, but there wasn't enough room above the plates for the required amount of insulation. I went with 12' in the family room because I absolutely need a 12' section in the entry for the family heirloom chandelier that is 30w x 45h. The 9' default almost works because most of the other areas that I want with high ceilings have the balcony and porch on the exterior so that extends the roof out which I thought would be far enough so that it was up enough above the plates on the outside walls of the family room and kitchen. No problem with the 10' in the kitchen, but the family room and the entry way are a different story. I do have the email that states putting the ductwork in the attic is just a "we've always done it that way' sort of thing, rather than physics and cold air dropping being the real reason. Current energy gurus state if you have a tight house, currently most new construction would/should be that way, there will be no problem putting the supply registers in the floor, vs. the ceiling. But that's off topic here. I was just anticipating further questions on the subject. I think this person will also try to steer me into going with a ventilated attic as well. All this from a very well known person in the HVAC field.
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DIYARCH joined the community
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In terms of Home Designer, I would suggest downloading and learning Sketch Up to make the ceiling applique to then download and use as a custom symbol in Home Designer. The same thing can be done within Chief Premier using available tools, once learned. DJP
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Is it possible to model the catalan vault ceilings in Chief Architect? Specially the intesections between the window or door vaults and the main vault. See attached examples.
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philippg joined the community
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10' ceiling, taller windows.
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No idea what your problems are, but I did quickly make a new hutch, and fixed the roof. Why 12' ceilings and why soffits around the perimeter? Default Ceiling 9 Window Downsizing 1700 sq ft 01-18-2020 (eric).zip
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Surely you know that you can't raise ceilings with 'auto rebuild roof' turned on, because the roof will rebuild to accomodate the taller ceilings? If you raise the buffet-hutch to the default height of 94.6", the knobs won't be up in the air.
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I came back to say my fix actually did not work. I had rebuild roof turned off. Thank you Eric, your suggestion fixed my issue.
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Yeah, the knobs in the air are a confirmed bug in the program. They were told about it back when I still had Home Designer Pro 2018. I assume it won't ever be fixed. Definitely have upper cabinet fixing to do, but that's easy compared to this ceiling problem. Still can't get it. I don't understand why this program is drawing attic walls that aren't aligned as I'm surely not drawing walls in the attic. I contacted customer support and they suggested I do this with manual ceiling planes. That didn't work either. I've now gone back to trying to achieve 10' ceilings in the kitchen and 12' ceilings in the family room surrounded by "soffits" at the 10' height so they match up to the kitchen ceiling height. That will solve the cabinet height problem but I can't figure out how to get the 12' ceiling underneath the roof without the program adding a raised portion on the roof. I would certainly think I could do this by manually creating a ceiling plane at the wall and lowering it by two feet in effect making a soffit but it should be better than a soffit because I would think the framing would at least recognize it. Still no luck. Would you know how to do this? Plan is attached. Once I get this done, I'll be battling the entry way again, which needs a 12' ceiling because of the chandelier I have but I want to separate it from the family room so that the family room ceiling is a four sided rectangle. Basically I want a 12' ceiling in the great room surrounded by soffits that drop down to the 10' height and I'm at my maximum height with the HOA so I can't raise the roof. Untitled_4.zip
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1st floor. Turn on the Auto Dormers layer.
- Last week
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I found a solution - the idea of starting of scratch was not appealing. On Floor 3, I manually deleted the north wall and north roof plane on the middle building. Put a new wall back, rebuilt the roof and the warning did not return. I picked this wall and roof plane because this was the location of the deleted dormer.
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Thank you David. I will send the plan to support.
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I checked all levels on all buildings before posting. Any other ideas?
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I opened your plan (thanks for sharing it), in Chief Architect X12 and got the same error message. I tried several things to find the source or just make it stop and was unsuccessful in those efforts. You can: 1. Start over with a new plan, in terms of the error message I consider your plan file corrupt (this often happens while learning the software and too much guessing is done or in this case, you did something the creators did not forsee anyone doing). 2. Or when you next see the "Dormer error message" place a checkmark in that error message dialog to "Do not show this message again during this session". Then you should not see the message again until you reopen the plan for another session. 3. Send a copy to Chief Architect Tech Support so they can find out exactly what you did to cause this problem and communicate any possible solution back to you. DJP
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I've not looked at the plan, but I'm sure the dormers are there. Check all levels, including the Attic level.
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Hi All, I keep receiving this warning message "New Dormer Positioned Too Close To Another Dormer" even though I have no dormers in my plan. I was playing with dormers on this plan but have since deleted and rebuilt roofs. How can I fix this issue? I have included my plan. Thank you. Lot.plan
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With Pro, you have manual roofs so you may draw them where you want. For automatic roofs -- roofs build over rooms, so you need to think of the balcony as a room (there is a Balcony room type), with a railing wall defining the outside edge. Because your columns span 2 floors, they need to be placed and sized manually. Your questions tell me you don't understand how the program works, so I'd suggest reviewing the links I provided above. The hour long getting started webinars on YouTube might be a good place to start. There is also a tutorial found under the Help menu that goes over the basics.
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I've drawn a two-storey box shaped house to start, but am unsure of how to begin drawing the exterior columns and then draw a hip roof which extends outward to the edge of the columns. Do you begin be drawing an exterior wall surrounding the exterior walls of the house, and then change these outermost walls into columns?
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deskcomm5 joined the community
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You will need to explain what problems you are having. You may have trouble with some of the details like the 2nd floor railing, but for the structure itself, I see no problems. I found this column which looks close enough in the standard library.
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I'm trying to model the Oak Alley Plantation style. Basically a two-storey square box house, with a large overhanging hip roof supported by large columns. a second floor balcony meets the columns and wraps around the entire house. I'd also like to include a roof-top terrace if possible, as seen in the photo of the Oak Alley Plantation house.
