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Draw it in setchup, save as sketchup model, drag and drop the file into HD Pro. Rescale, change materials etc, then save to library. As an HD pro user (not premier) Your access to premier models is of course limited.

which software version are you using?

You need to hire an P.E. (engineer) licensed in your state who knows the building code. So someone local. I could figure it out being an engineer but the loads and materials and connections and etc. All come to play. IF actual pre-built trusses - you cn contact truss manufacturer as they tend to have engineers on staff to design the truss. PS that is not really a truss just a normal roof with rafters and collar ties near ridge and vaulted ceiling below. HEck this HD software does not even create collar ties and rafter vertical supports that ties into load bearing walls below.

i was hoping to find one here lol

Ask a licensed structural engineer. The geographic area is also critical for snow loading, if applicable

I have a question? i built a post frame building and raised my roof to allow a lift to be installed. I am curious on the trusses that i have built it is a 30x50 post frame building with trusses designed like my crude drawing attached that are 3ft on center. my question is what is my load rating for my trusses now that they are installed each? or is there even a way to know the load rating? the truss is constructed with a 186 inch top board with 2 155 inch supporting boards that are bolted across the center to allow for the extra 2 ft of height i needed. it is all 2x8 design and the boards the run across there are 2 of them they are also lag bolted together. Help if you can thank you

Did you try drawing it with the radius deck railing?

Hello, I am hitting a dead end with custom drawing some deck framing. I made a multi level deck drawing, with an offset curved end, which I ended up custom drawing joists and beams to make work. It looks right in framing view, but when planking is applied it still extends past as the rectangle I started with. I assume I need another step to unify the framing somehow. Are there more steps to get the planks to relate to the custom made framing as well? Thanks for any help, I've searched processes and videos and cant match this exact scenario. Thanks.

I saw that but for some reason the defaults for a basement floor are set with concrete, foam, and subfloor. I edited it in defaults and I think I figured it out now but still glitchy

There is no home designer 17. Home designer uses years, chief architect uses X(numbers)

Ooof lol, I originally posted on a different forum and the person who helped said they didnt have home designer x17 so i figured that was what i used lol. thank you for the assistance ill post there.

If you're using Chief Architect, best to post on that forum https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com This is the site for their Home Designer software. Same parent company, different program capabilities.

Hi everyone, First off, I apologize in advance for my limited experience and knowledge. I am a complete amateur and definitely not an architect or engineer. I’m trying to learn as I go, and I genuinely appreciate any patience or guidance. I am currently designing a small cabin in Chief Architect and have run into an issue with my shed roof and wall heights that I cannot figure out. Project specs: Cabin size: 30' x 16' Shed roof design Roof pitch: 1.5/12 Intended wall heights: Low wall: 8' High wall: 10' Vaulted ceilings throughout following the roof line (no flat ceilings anywhere) The intended framing setup is: Low shed wall: 91 1/2" studs 4 1/2" combined plates 8' overall wall height High shed/gable wall: 115 1/2" studs 4 1/2" combined plates 10' overall wall height Two side gable walls: 91 1/2" studs 4 1/2" combined plates 8' overall wall height with rake walls built above following the roof slope From my understanding, the math should work correctly: 1 1/2" x 16" = 24" 8'-10' 24" difference ? So unless I am misunderstanding something fundamental, a 1.5/12 pitch across 16' should naturally create approximately 2' of rise, meaning an 8' low wall and 10' high wall should be achievable. However, in Chief Architect, I cannot seem to get the roof/walls to generate correctly. What I have tried: Turned OFF “Flat Ceiling Over This Room” Set my top plate/wall height to 96" Set roof pitch to 1.5/12 Manually drew roof planes Rebuilt roofs/framing multiple times One thing that confused me even more is that I actually managed to get it working temporarily by splitting the structure down the middle with an interior dividing wall. When I did that: I could assign one side as the 8' section and the other side as the 10' section and the roof/framing generated properly However, the cabin is intended to have an open interior with continuous vaulted ceilings from the 8' side to the 10' side. As soon as I remove that dividing wall and rebuild framing/roof: the high wall extends above and past the roof plane, the wall heights become incorrect, one stud shows approximately 121 13/16", and the overall roof/wall intersection looks wrong. At this point, I suspect the issue is probably related to: Roof baseline settings Wall definitions Ceiling/roof relationships Room definitions Attic wall generation Or how Chief calculates automatic roof generation in open vaulted spaces rather than the roof geometry itself being impossible. Could someone explain: The proper way to set up a simple open vaulted 8' to 10' shed roof in Chief Architect Whether I should be adjusting baseline height instead of wall height Why the high wall is extending past the roof plane Why the roof behaves correctly with a dividing wall but breaks once the space becomes open Whether my understanding of the roof math/framing logic is correct I would really appreciate any explanations, corrections, or guidance. I am still learning and trying to better understand both framing concepts and the software itself. Software/PC specs: Chief Architect Premier X17 (latest version) Windows NVIDIA GTX 5050 8GB 16GB RAM Intel i5 2.20GHz I will update this with plans/screenshots shortly as I am currently posting from a mobile device. Thank you very much for your time. please help lol.zip

You have the default floor as 5-1/2". If you click the edit button, you should be able to change it to a 4" thickness, all concrete slab. Then just check that your ceiling heights are what they should be

That is opening "room specifications" for the basement. I checked defaults as well and they seem to be in line with what I want. Even the section view shows the floor detail correctly but the height will not adjust as I want it. 2022 is older and has some problems but since they took away the perpetual licensing for the new updates I refuse to pay for a subscription based product.

the dialogue you show.... what is it for? what level? I would go into the defaults and set each level... oh wait you are using 2022.... not sure what it has, as it has been a long time for me

I am having a weird issue with my concrete slab in the basement. There is a 5 1/2" wood/insulation/concrete floor that is floating above my footing. How do I change this to a regular concrete slab? Every time I adjust the floor height it shifts the footing as well. Thanks in advance.

I am new to this software and need to design a log cabin with a high pitch roof that extends to the ground. Can someone help me on this? I have no idea where to start with building the roof so that each floor decreases in size with the roof pitch. Please help! I have attached the picture of the house, it has a full basement below.

yes Program will join a cabinet to anything that is 3" or less away. So you can space cabinets apart and it will add the filler

11 years ago was this thread and the software has changed drastically since then.

Hmmm. my mistake. Thanks for clarifying. I am finding other resources, keep up the good work.

All of the Home Designer videos are human made and narrated by employees of the company. homedesignersoftware.com/videos/

Anyone have access to instructional videos (or other) created by humans? Wow it must be 2026 for a question like that. One of my "buying decisions" was the wealth of instructional videos available from Chief Architect. But so far the ones I have selected all have unlistenable robot voices with weird inflections and an unnatural delivery that I simply find 1) stressful to listen to, and 2) very hard to follow/understand. It's like half of my brain is just trying to relate what I am hearing to what is normally considered "language". That leaves half a brain to actually receive and process the intended meaning. Plus the distracting emotions of anger/resentment at having to endure this folly. So, I am looking for alternatives, because I need to understand all those tiny icons and nuanced controls and get this garage built! Thanks all!

Appears to create a filler when I manually move a cabinet a couple inches away from the wall. Is this the correct placement approach?

I'm having trouble determining if my cabinet placement is accurate or if I need to manually enter a 2" filler near walls. Would I use the 'partition' for this? I'm using frameless eurostyle fronts.