stpete111 Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 stpete111, Don't judge a wall by it's color. If you click on the wall to view it's properties, you will see that it is a thinner exterior wall. A thinner wall was the only way that would allow me to extend the front walls of each dormer, out further (to lengthen them). The dormers have to be done manually. I don't know what is going on with your attic walls. Ok I see, well Mick is right, you are very good at coming up with creative workarounds to get the right results in this software. I wish I could just afford Pro, but alas. Does Chief Architect ever run discounts on upgrades? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpete111 Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 I think I detect a Southern Drawl quoted per earlier post in thread............ "your default overhang is set at 1/4" , it should be minimum 1 1/2 ? ( I used 2 1/4) otherwise you will lose the siding as seen, as the fascia would be in the wall as it is 1 1/2" thick (usually) but maybe 3/4 thick with Siding tucked behind it.?" ....some more info...... the fascia is part of the Roof System and Roofs ALWAYS cut walls , so keep fascia off the wall , the overhang measurement is to the back of the fascia from the STUD (main layer) not the siding, so make it to big to start and sneak it back in till the siding disappears or do some math and figure out what it needs to be if you fascia is hard on the siding. Got it. Please note that I do read every word of you and Jo Ann's posts and try to apply the settings and/or at least understand them. If it seems like I ignored or missed something you said in a prior post, it simply means I tried applying that setting in my real plan, and I ended up worse off for some reason. I'm starting to think I should just upload my real plan... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpete111 Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 @Jo I used X7 as Stpete is using 2016 and I couldn't open the file in HD Pro 10 , yours on the other hand I could... I thought you had Pro 2016 Trial now though? I noticed your 4" ext. walls but couldn't figure out the why??? Honestly I did not think you could do that on the 2nd floor with the Roof settings , but I have never figured out why the overhangs don't work like they should with Gambrel Roofs and you end up having to set it so it doesn't extend too far down, rather than at the correct measurement. Not sure why you have a wall missing between the 1st and 2nd dormers? though you may have mistaken the Soffit for an invisible wall in plan view? I'm guessing the soffit was to make the roof edge look more like the photo? The inside of the Dormers need a bunch of work to clean them up , I'll have another look tomorrow , when I have more time. M. I really appreciate your willingness to keep looking at this with me. Should I upload my real plan? I don't know why there would be any other difference than the rest of the house being attached to the right (there's one more section that's not in my original pic) but trying to apply you and JoAnn's settings is not giving me the right results. If I were to upload my plan, please tell me what the Structure settings (ceiling heights) should be for both floors of the section in question - I will apply that to each individual room so you don't have to do that tedious part. If you've already started on your own model or just don't want to get involved with my mess, no worries at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpete111 Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 This may be one of my problems. I get this error when I try to change the most far right room in our left section of the house to the Structure settings reflected in JoAnn's model. One thing you guys haven't had to deal with are the knee walls I have in the middle section of the house... another logical plus for uploading the plan I'm actually working on Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpete111 Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 This is what my mess looks like after applying JoAnn's settings. Sorry, all I can do is laugh... I suck at this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jo_Ann Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Post a jpeg of your 1st floor 2d floor plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jo_Ann Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Kbird: "Not sure why you have a wall missing between the 1st and 2nd dormers? though you may have mistaken the Soffit for an invisible wall in plan view? I'm guessing the soffit was to make the roof edge look more like the photo?" Adding a wall there messed things up, and I have no idea why. Yes, the soffit was added to show stpete111 how to fake the roof break on that upper level (shown on the real pic). When auto roof is turned off and the ceilings get raised, that clears up a lot of the wall mess on the 2nd floor. Whatever remains, can be tweaked. stpete111: Home Designer does already offer a discount on upgrades. Look on the website. There is a link on the forum page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 I asked about the wall as I didn't see any change when I added one ? The plan you posted still has auto build roofs on , was I supposed to turn it off and change some floor heights or something ? @stpete: if you buy HDA you get the money you spent on Suite back as an instant rebate , so you lose nothing by upgrading in the same year..... M. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 the floor plans I have Jo_Ann Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpete111 Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 Post a jpeg of your 1st floor 2d floor plan. Good morning - sorry about the delayed response, I was out-of-pocket all day yesterday. Attached as requested. You can now see the entire 1st floor of my plan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpete111 Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 @stpete: if you buy HDA you get the money you spent on Suite back as an instant rebate , so you lose nothing by upgrading in the same year..... M. @stpete: if you buy HDA you get the money you spent on Suite back as an instant rebate , so you lose nothing by upgrading in the same year..... M. Agreed that at the end of the day I've only spent a total of $200 on Architectural, which is what it costs to a new user, but I was 1.) curious if the additional $100 that I have to spend gets me $100 more worth of features 2.) is there a discount for upgrades such that if you've bought a lower-tier product, then decide to upgrade to a higher one, they will charge you less of the differential amount as a discount (e.g you buy Suite for $99, decide you want Arch, you can upgrade to Arch for say, an additional $75 instead of an additional $99). I don't think CA would do this though, b/c ppl who want Arch from the start would just go buy Suite first then use the discount upgrade to get Arch. Anyway, I'm getting off topic - and if I'm going to upgrade, I would want to go all the way to Pro to really notice the difference in features. That's not something I can afford right now unfortunately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpete111 Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 These two errors here (attached) are the root of my issues w/o a doubt. The last attachment is the 2D of the FULL upstairs. Note the highlighted knee walls, something you guys haven't had to deal with up until this point. These guys are causing issues. I'm going ahead and attaching my real plan with the full house, in case anyone decides they want a challenge this weekend. If no one touches it at all, I totally understand and I don't expect it at all. The first plan has JoAnn's setting applied to the upstairs at this point - therefore this is basing the roof on the 2nd floor walls, whereas Mick's approach bases it on the 1st story walls. The other one is before I applied any of JoAnn's settings, maybe better off than the first one. Hope you two have a great weekend! Avron1-2 Roof JoAnn Settings 1.1.plan Avron1-2 Roof TestF.plan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 @stpete: if you buy HDA you get the money you spent on Suite back as an instant rebate , so you lose nothing by upgrading in the same year..... M. Agreed that at the end of the day I've only spent a total of $200 on Architectural, which is what it costs to a new user, but I was 1.) curious if the additional $100 that I have to spend gets me $100 more worth of features 2.) is there a discount for upgrades such that if you've bought a lower-tier product, then decide to upgrade to a higher one, they will charge you less of the differential amount as a discount (e.g you buy Suite for $99, decide you want Arch, you can upgrade to Arch for say, an additional $75 instead of an additional $99). I don't think CA would do this though, b/c ppl who want Arch from the start would just go buy Suite first then use the discount upgrade to get Arch. Anyway, I'm getting off topic - and if I'm going to upgrade, I would want to go all the way to Pro to really notice the difference in features. That's not something I can afford right now unfortunately. you can always goto ARCH now and then too Pro when you can afford it or need it , but as Jo-Ann proves every week HDA is pretty capable ,so you may never need Pro? and you are correct there is no "extra" discount for upgrading , you essentially just pay the difference. Of course it looks like you have chosen the most difficult house to start out with ,but it's still it's cheaper to upgrade the software than the house ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 When I get more time I'll have a look at your plans , but Jo_Ann can't as she is unable to install 2016 on her computer , which is why she ask for your floorplan , I assume she is duplicating it in her HDA10 instead , She likes a Challenge too Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpete111 Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 you can always goto ARCH now and then too Pro when you can afford it or need it , but as Jo-Ann proves every week HDA is pretty capable ,so you may never need Pro? and you are correct there is no "extra" discount for upgrading , you essentially just pay the difference. Of course it looks like you have chosen the most difficult house to start out with ,but it's still it's cheaper to upgrade the software than the house ! Good point for sure, Mick. I'll likely upgrade to Architectural with that said. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpete111 Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 When I get more time I'll have a look at your plans , but Jo_Ann can't as she is unable to install 2016 on her computer , which is why she ask for your floorplan , I assume she is duplicating it in her HDA10 instead , She likes a Challenge too Thanks again, Mick, I really appreciate any input you may have. @JoAnn, are your installation issues computer-related or Home Designer software-related? Now we're getting into an area I'm actually good at - I'm in IT support. Let me know if I can help with any issues that are related to general computer problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Ship her a nice 64bit Win7 computer and your troubles will be over , she'll be appreciative no doubt.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpete111 Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 Ship her a nice 64bit Win7 computer and your troubles will be over , she'll be appreciative no doubt.... So it's just an older hardware problem? Wow that is 100% a problem I can solve. I have more pc parts here than I know what to do with... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpete111 Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 So just in case this is helpful, I wanted to take a picture of the inside of the room that has the knee walls. Sometimes helps to visualize from the inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jo_Ann Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Ha ha ha! You guys are funny! In image6 that you posted, it appears that you are trying to use your exterior walls as 'knee walls'. Knee walls are interior walls, drawn within the room. Put the exterior walls back where they belong. The new pic of the real room is confusing. It looks as though there are 2 dormers on each side of the roof? In the real full house pic, I see only 1 dormer on each side of the roof. ????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpete111 Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 Ha ha ha! You guys are funny! In image6 that you posted, it appears that you are trying to use your exterior walls as 'knee walls'. Knee walls are interior walls, drawn within the room. Put the exterior walls back where they belong. The new pic of the real room is confusing. It looks as though there are 2 dormers on each side of the roof? In the real full house pic, I see only 1 dormer on each side of the roof. ????? Ok understood on the knee walls, however those knee walls worked quite well as exterior walls before I started to get into the madness of the wrapped roof. The second section of the house (middle section) was the one I actually had working pretty well! Anyway, understood on the confusion - stay tuned, detailed diagram with arrows and fun stuff like that on its way... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpete111 Posted April 25, 2015 Author Share Posted April 25, 2015 Ok see attachments. Let me know if this is helpful detail or confusing overkill! Note that I identify the house as 3 sections - Left section, center, and right. Hoping those identifiers are fairly obvious. Be sure to see the actual names of the files as I've tried to make them as descriptive as possible. (And yep there's a patio in the rear of the left section adding to the complex roof, but I honestly could care less about that patio's existence in the software model) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Damn you are going to be busy Girl ! , that better be a nice Comp. you ship stpete111, sooner she can install 2016 ( no go on XP) the better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpete111 Posted April 26, 2015 Author Share Posted April 26, 2015 So all we need is a pc that can run windows 7 under normal load, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kbird1 Posted April 26, 2015 Share Posted April 26, 2015 AFAIK nothing special as long as it can handle HDA2016/Pro2016 but I think you should take this to PM , if you think you can help each other, happy to help if I can too but Jo is the HDA Wonderkid, being able to think outside the box makes a big diff. if you can't afford Pro, and she has been running that battle for a few years now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Please sign in to comment
You will be able to leave a comment after signing in
Sign In Now