Rookie65

The sizes shown by default for doors are inches broken into foot/inches. Example is 2668 = 30" x 80" (always width x height" You could change the dimension in the "label" tab to %width%x%height% to have it show in inches. If you want other text, you can add it to the label box too. Yet after a while, it can look cluttered with too much information. That why I do a separate door and window schedule at the end and number the doors 1,2,etc. in a text box w/a square shape

My guess is you are trying to make it look like an open truss at the end? If so, a sloped soffit is what you can use. Or in the bonus catalogs, there is a Corbels and Brackets No.3 Gable catalog that may give you what you are looking for already done. Typically the "Z" axis is just the vertical axis, which I don't think is the term you meant to use.

Or you can also draw a "ceiling plane" for the bedroom wall to have the vault be just over the bedroom, and the roof will be over the entire house and you can center the window in the attic.

Search the knowledge base for this topic for some more insight. I believe there was something posted a couple of months ago on this. You can use a bearing line where the rooms intersect. Then sometimes it takes a couple of the joist direction lines to get it to change. Might want to spend time going through the reference manual as well.

There are no separate layers in Home Designer products like there are in Chief Architect. Either you show the labels or not.

Do you have "temporary dimensions" turned on?

I just save it on my desktop like the master plan file. Then when you go to open layout, use that one, then change as needed and save as the new project name.

Create a new layout sheet, put what you want on it, then save the layout as a master. Then with each new project, you save that layout to the project name, and your original stays ready for the next one. Then edit the job name, date, etc. Just like creating a master .plan file to generate new drawings from. You can also create them in different paper sizes so they are ready to go

Ask a licensed structural engineer. The geographic area is also critical for snow loading, if applicable

Did you try drawing it with the radius deck railing?

There is no home designer 17. Home designer uses years, chief architect uses X(numbers)

If you're using Chief Architect, best to post on that forum https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com This is the site for their Home Designer software. Same parent company, different program capabilities.

You have the default floor as 5-1/2". If you click the edit button, you should be able to change it to a 4" thickness, all concrete slab. Then just check that your ceiling heights are what they should be

Try changing the walls the doors are in to "no room definition".

A wall likely auto-rebuilt. Copy the window location, then check the walls to see if one or more says "Polyline produced by 3D wall editor." Delete it, and If you go too far, the wall you need will disappear. Then just just back up a step to put it back. Then you should be able to place the window you copied back. Sometimes the walls could be misaligned too. Without a plan to look at, it's just guesswork at this point