Keith_K

How can a set the offset angle of a wall?

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I am working off very old plans trying to recreate them so that proposed new developments can be made.  There is a wall which butts against another at an angle of 9º.  I know that I can drag the wall to form the angle but how and where can I ensure that the angle at the point of butting is an accurate 9º?  I've looked in the help data base without success.  This might be because, as is often the case, I am using the wrong terminology.

 

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If you have more than one wall to place at an angle , you can also add additional Snap Angles to the Plan  under Edit>Defaults>Plan>Allowed Angles.

, you might want to use 15° and 9° so HD doesn't  try to Snap to 7.5° and 9° though.

 

M.

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Guys, I don't know whether I am going to make much sense because my brain has been fried.  I know the buildings that I am working on at the moment extremely well as I used to work there and I was puzzled as to why, in the attachment of the original drawing in my first post, the small shop area was drawn at an angle.  Eventually, after struggling to make sense of the drawings the local planning department had e-mailed to me by zooming in and out, backwards and forwards, I eventually stuck the PDF documents onto a memory stick and had them printed.

 

Thereafter I put all the drawings into the submission date sequence on which the site had been developed over the years, went onto Google maps and took an aerial screenshot of the site and found that:

 

1.  The shop was built first and it is most definitely at 90º to the road boundary.

2.  The workshop area marked (A) on the attachment below was built next and it was this building that was placed at an angle.  The angle on the printed PDF seems to be 9.5° and not 9º as I originally measured.  This is clearly visible on the aerial photo.

3.  The third stage of development was the showroom and additional workshop area with a small toilet block linking to the existing shop marked (B) on the attachment below.

 

Prior to this discovery I tried to angle the shop and made one right royal cock-up after the other with the walls ending up all jagged instead of straight.

 

If someone has the time please could you look at the attached plans (one is the existing layout and the other the intended, both partially worked on until this conundrum threw a spanner into the works) and try and give me some guidance as to how I might get this darn thing right. 

 

It would be much appreciated as I seem to be spending such a lot of time chasing windmills and getting absolutely nowhere.

 

Thank you.

 

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Petrol station - existing floor plan 18.05.15.plan

Petrol station with pumps 09.05.15.plan

 

 

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Not sure what you are asking, Keith.

Without understanding what you are starting with, and where you are wanting to go, helping is difficult.

As Mick suggested, setting angle snaps to your specific degrees should help, and once you get a wall or two in place, you can use the Make Parallel tool.

Angled lines will always look rough on screen -- not sure how they will print.

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Post the PDF's Keith cos  from the Air it looks like 3 Buildings , yet you have drawn it all as one  so I am confused  and looking at the Aerial shot I wouldn't say any of the building was at 90° to the Road.

 

your two Plots don't match in size either , and the Aerial suggests the LH side isn't straight  , though it maybe , in which case I'd say your buildings are to far left ,and shouldn't be parallel to the PL if the fence in the Aerial is the PL.?

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They are all "one" building" Mick and the shop is 90º to the road, I promise.  You'll see on the PDF.  ;)

 

Ignore the perimeter boundaries (if that is possible) as I am still fiddling with them and the bigger one is more accurate.  Well according to the distances I get off Google maps anyway.  As you will see on the original drawings no site dimensions are given on the site plans.  And no, the left hand boundary isn't straight.  There is a wiggly curve to it and, on one of the drawings, the corner of a building has been drawn in such a way that it seems to actually touch the boundary.

 

Just to clarify the sequence of the development.  In the beginning, when God created the garage, there was a small house on the site, two double petrol pumps on a forecourt and a small toilet block.  Then the shop was built.  After that the original workshop was built behind the house.  Then the house was demolished and the showroom/workshop was built between and linked to the shop and the original workshop.  And that is where the crap seems to have hit the fan as far as the drawings are concerned.

 

I suppose, in theory, I should have started my drawing with the original workshop but given that there aren't any proper dimensions (i.e. setbacks etc.) on the drawings it would be like sucking stuff out of my thumb.  Which is why I started with the shop.

 

Oaklands Shop plan.pdf

 

Oaklands first workshop.pdf

 

Oaklands Showroom & workshop extension.pdf

 

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Years since I saw Plans , where the Mantra was  "Provide as little detail as possible, so no-one can say no"  :)  , I hope you have more info than this to work from and a recent Topo Survey or at least the old ones , you sure pick'em Keith , I hope at least This Client is paying you.

 

it is do-able ..............

 

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I'll attach the plan , Eric will be able to open it I think but you won't unless you upgrade to 2016

 

My Petrol Station 19.05.15._X7plan.plan

 

There are no doubt better ways but basically what I did was.....

 

- Drew Existing Salesroom (ES) 4 walls 

 

- group selected all 4 walls, and used Transform Replicate to rotate to -9.5 °  (allows you to draw other buildings at 0°)

 

- Drew 1st Workshop (with 2x8m bumpout on the Front) ,  well up the plan 25 m or so, ie. separate building (a

 

- Drew New Showroom with workshop Extension as a separate building (b

 

- group selected building (a and slide it down to touch Building (b

 

- group selected (ES) walls again and slide up and over towards Build (b until I was happy with placement 4-5m away then extended front wall towards Building (b until it hit the Corner of (b

 

- extended back wall of (ES) up 2-3 m           ( mark no room def)

 

-extended back wall of (a  down until about 2m into new Showroom area    (11m?)       (mark no room def)

 

- drew new wall connecting both extended walls while holding the Control key till they snap together. ( mark wall "no room Def too so Roofs wont build there)

 

-Group Selected EVERYTHING ,transform replicate , rotate back to 0°  so (ES) is now straight up and down ie 90° to Road.

 

- Set up Roof/wall gable /shed etc settings and built roof .

 

- Built Foundation..

 

Hope this helps some...

 

Mick.

 

PS how do you stop the forum from making ( B )   into these   B)

 

 

 

 

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My word!  Aren't you just such a clever bloke? :D  Funnily enough at some point during a very restless and more-awake-than-asleep night I thought of doing something similar by starting with one of the buildings other then the shop.  But you beat me to it. :ph34r:  Thank you.

 

As you say, I am unable to open your plan and cannot afford to upgrade from my 2014 software but I have printed your instructions and let you know how I get on.  Provided the effort doesn't kill me. ;)

 

p.s.  You stop the forum messing with your ( B ) by using a lower case letter - (B)

p.p.s.  How very DARE you mark my topic as answered before I even had a chance to read your response?  Eh?  :o  :P  :rolleyes:  :blink:  :angry:  :D

 

Memo to self -  You must learn to control your smiley icon wotsits fetish

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Hahahaha.  It would seem that my p.s. was totally WRONG! 

 

I'll try again.

 

p.s. You stop the forum messing with your ( B ) by using (i)  (ii)  (iii) etc. :)

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Yep I tried the lowercase after the uppercase placed smileys on every one ,  I was trying to label it like you did in your uploaded images for easy reference..

 

I can't mark your post as answered , only you can do that, (slip of the mouse? ) and I did think it a bit weird that "you should post the PDFs" was the answer.... 

 

Yes I think this year they changed the upgrade price from $200 to $295?  if you are more than a year behind (which is only $99) , had thought I might get my old Pro 10 updated too but decided to get Chief in the end when it was on Sale.

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Marked as solved by moi??  Bloody hell!  I seem to do strange things when I am on here and don't realise that I am the culprit.  There must be a malign influence about. The issue in question has now been fixed. :wacko:

 

I really don't understand why CA charges so much when you want to upgrade.  Customers have already paid for their software and one would think, possibly quite naively, that when they improve or add features to something that exists already those who already own the software would just be charged for any improvements and additions to what already exists, not all over again for the whole thing.

 

But I suppose that having a good product and a "captive" audience allows companies to ignore the fact that not all of their customers have unlimited funds which allows them to pay over and over again for virtually the same thing.  :(

I am now about to embark on trying to fix my plans in accordance with your suggestions so if you hear a loud wailing noise...
 

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Wheeee! I'm hoping that it's just an optical illusion that makes the angled units seem to be non-rectangular.

A small problem remains in that some of the dimensions are wrong and can't be corrected. It would seem that if walls are drawn at an angle the interior dimension tool doesn't work, either to take a new measurement or to drag the end point to where it should be on the interior wall, I've sort of managed with the point to point dimension tool but it isn't all that accurate.

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looking good :)    ...haven't tried it but you should be able to use PTP Dimensions to go diagonally each way to check for "square" same as I'd do on the job.

 

yes  with the changes , if you don't upgrade every year to the new version of Pro for $99  it can hurt a few years down the line when you have to pay $295 , so you might as well pay each year and have the latest and greatest rather than upgrade one ever 3-4 yrs as it costs the same now...  you need to start charging some of your customers , so at the very least you can afford to update.

 

M.

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