Rookie65

There is a built up baseboard in the Windsor One catalog that is very similar to what is trying to be done here 

What I mean is take the wall that is on the house inside the room that you are drawing. If you make the depth of it less than the thickness of the exterior wall that runs through it now, the framing will go away. If it was built as an interior 4 when constructed, and the drywall is aligned on the inside of the house, the framing will go away.

Lower the floor the 14" you need. Also, what is the wall type of the existing house where those 2 rooms meet? I do get some framing showing when it's a 2x6 wall, yet if it's a 2x4 and flush w/the inside, it goes away. Or create a wall just under the size of the exterior wall

Is this closer to what you want?

Use Room Type "Patio", change room name to Storage room"

Under the "Structure > Floor Tab", check

Floor supplied by the foundation room below

Monolithic slab foundation

Build foundation below

Yes, I saw/see that, which is why I asked why the room was named as "Open Below" when it doesn't seem to be.

Without seeing the plan and your settings, my thought is why is that room "open below" if it looks like it has a floor? You could possibly just lower the floor of that room by whatever distance below the house floor that it is?

If you can find a base cap that works, you can add to the default one you're using and edit it as needed. You will probably have to extend the profile to come out from the wall so it shows. Some time reading the reference manual or help menu ought to walk you through it 

Go to the bonus catalogs under Millwork. Download the Windsor One catalog. It may have what you want 

Try going to the materials tab for the wall and change the wall cap to drywall. Or make the half wall from a soffit 

Or try it with deck railings. Change the newel posts to what you want for size, rail style of post to beam, open, eliminate the railings, and that should get you close. You can change the materials to what you want. You'll probably want a framing/footing plan, and soffits won't give you that information. You can always check your reference manual to find things out so you aren't waiting for people to respond.

I don't know what Suite has for limitations, yet if you are thinking of designing seriously, you should look at upgrading to Pro.

My first suggestion is if you are going to design for clients, upgrade to Home Designer Pro so you have more flexibility of framing choices, creating different wall types, etc. What I have done is created a "Master Plan" that has the defaults set to what is most common for my area. That way, when I get a new design, I start with my master, and then rename the new plan so when I change the defaults for that job it doesn't mess up the master plan. 

Secondly, if you are not a licensed architect or engineer, make sure that fact is clearly explained ahead of time. Depending on where you live, you probably can design plans without being licensed and your state may have guidelines.

As for pricing, what I do is allow my clients 2 rounds of included revisions before the final plan is started. Any revisions after the 2 rounds that they initiate, depending on what it is, become invoiced on an hourly basis. I don't sweat moving a wall or window, yet size changes, roof changes, the larger items that affect the size, structure, etc.  It helps keep the people who can't decide from expecting a bunch of changes for nothing. Plus your time is worth money in providing them this service. Keep each version of the plans, as sometimes they will go back to what you had done before, or want to keep a particular item and you can copy and paste it to the new plan. Just start with the initial plan, and "save as" a new name so the defaults are still with it. Something as simple as naming it the next number so you can keep track of them. And always get a deposit before you start drawing anything. Provide them an estimate beforehand so they know the approximate price and can't come back with a complaint about the price afterwards and leave you with nothing.

Out of curiosity, how did you come up with that rate to charge? Did you check what some other people are charging for plans in your area? What I have created is almost an "A La Carte" pricing system. Each project type has a certain base price, with a square foot adder to it. That way, you have a certain price initially for your time, then the adder is a small amount based on the size.

That's my 2 cents.

You may also want to try doing a "walkthrough", yet around just the exterior and see if that works for you?

You can also change the material on the bonus catalog gable truss if wood grain, color, etc. are critical

You can adjust the bonus truss to make it fit the pitch you need. They don't make one for every conceivable pitch 

Go to the bonus catalogs millwork>Corbels and Brackets No.3 Gable.

See if the beach style will work for you

Or use an angled soffit

It's also good for sound reduction if you do it as 2 separate walls with a space between them. Keep in mind that 2x8's are 7-1/4"

Click on the floor>structure >change the floor framing to what you want. Help is available on each screen and you can search for what you want to accomplish 

Try your core catalog, archtectural, search sink, and undermount is an option. At least in Pro 24

This forum is for the Home Designer series. If you are using the actual Chief Architect program, you will want to use this forum.

https://chieftalk.chiefarchitect.com/

Or check the materials and be sure the exterior ones are all set to the same color. 

Set the floor level of the higher deck at a negative height above the floor of the main house, which should be "0". That will raise it up

Try going to your wall types and using "Straight Glass Pony Wall" and see if it makes your life easier.

You can make the license available to her when you aren't working on the plan and she can see the same thing you had. Plus, you'll be both working with the same downloaded files in the library.

Only if she has Pro. Programs only work forward on types. You could log out and give her the license key number. Then she could log in with the same program you are using. Just have to remember to make it available when either of you are done so the other can access it.

It's not in HD