Rookie65

You had posted it on Chieftalk, not Hometalk. There is a bonus catalog in the library under cabinets>cabinet doors No.1 double panel that may work. I don't see that it has the unequal panels size panels, yet it may get you close. Unless you can fudge with an interior door style that shows unequal panels and get that to fit?

Please post questions in the "Q&A" section. Depending on which program version and year you have  look at pony walls 

Do you have your dimensions set to dimension to the rough opening?

If architectural doesn't have pony walls, then use an exterior wall covering. You can read about them in your reference manual 

You can contact support. It's been an issue for years. You might be able to sneak a full height soffit in there. Or try unchecking the no locate box

Maybe try adding a stud using the "post" item in the general framing tab? Set it at the stud size and height and see if that works. As a post, it should also show up in your framing view, as long as "posts" are turned on to display

If you can get the "room divider" wall type to just show up as a line, and not an an "invisible wall", it may help it. I put a base cabinet with a dishwasher in it in my user library, so I can access it easily. 

The molding may not be showing because of the invisible wall at the end of the short wall. It acts as a room divider, and will not show it. You can try changing the wall type to "room divider" and have it show with the single line. It's something that changed a few versions back and is a pain in that it shows as a wall and not a dividing line. Another thing to look at is you have "no room moldings-exterior" checked. Try unchecking that d see if it helps.For the dishwasher, that is to be "dropped" into a cabinet. If not, it's likely being pushed back by the cabinet.

To save yourself some typing, fill out your signature on the "account settings" in your profile. That was your version and year will always be in your posts, and you don't have to bother typing it every time. 

You might try eliminating the interior sill to keep the casing, then use a soffit to make a sill. Then you can make that the walnut color. It's a thought anyway 

Turn off "flat ceiling over this room" in the room defaults drop down box.  Can always look at the reference manual for other solutions to different things. 

Whenever I have to draw a "room only" plan, I'll always draw an exterior perimeter, then draw the interior walls as needed. It helps keep the doors, etc. The correct type, ie interior. It should help with the roof. 

Did you rebuild it?

Try not checking soffit surface for ceiling. The material you select for the ceiling will follow the rafters. 

I wasn't sure if you had a 2nd floor on the building. That text box y-g-m-n shows is in your "framing" box in the defaults settings tab.

Try setting your ceiling default to 16". You show the dimension, yet it's not checked as "default". It's a guess without seeing any more of the plan.

You don't need to look at YouTube. It's right in the reference manual and very simple. Or search help or knowledge based articles.

Since you have Pro, you can do the roof on the first pass as "auto build roof." Then turn that off, go to the lower roof, and adjust the pitch to what you want it to be. Or you can draw them both with manual roof planes since it's a very simple structure. Please update your signature so everyone knows what version and year of the program you are using. The reference manual and "help" tab are also good places to look, so you aren't waiting for people to respond.

When you see that error, it's likely that the material has been discontinued. Best to replace it with something that is in your current library.

Try room defaults or check the reference manual too

Yes. Look at the default settings under dimensions 

Uncheck "ceiling over room"

I have a master plan that I start my jobs from too. Just take a layout, make your changes, then save as a name that's easy, like 18x24 master, or 24x36 master. Then when you open it for a job, save it as the job and get rid of the ".plan" suffix so it becomes a layout for that job. Then when you make your changes, it saves as a layout for that job, and your master stays intact for the next one

I've taken the 18x24 default layout sheet, set up a master layout with the information I want, saved it, then created a 24x36 master layout sheet from it. Then I can use it whenever I want. I don't mess with the title block. I just take the border, bring it to the edges of the larger paper, then slide the block to the right edge. It's large enough, I think, for all of the information needed.

I have it saved in a file and just pull it from there for each job. Plus, I have a bunch already "made up" for the clients I work with the most. Often they like having their business logo on the paper in the space at the bottom right corner between the block and bottom of sheet as well.

Which version of the software are you using? Filling out your signature will let people help easier when we know what version and year of the software you're using. Questions should be posted in the "Q&A" section so more people will see them. Tips and Techniques is where you post things you have learned that may help others.

If your project doesn't have a ceiling, delete it in the structure tab. Then the roof framing will act as your ceiling framing also. As a side note, your stairs look way off, so those setting may need to be reviewed as well.

Turning of the framing is done in the "display options" tab. You can select what items to show in each camera view.

It would benefit you greatly to spend some time reviewing the reference manual or help tab available on each page.

As was mentioned to you in the Chief talk forum, mouldings are specified in the room, not the wall. Your image is of a wall.