Rookie65

Maybe delete the wall and redraw it then. Did you change the materials in the wall  dbx, or use the paint tools again?

Try opening the wall and then changing the materials

Pretty much the same answer as you got in 2022

Try raising the door off of the floor a small distance so the sill covers the break

Are both floor surfaces the same thickness? Maybe check if the door has the sill/threshold checked? Without the plan to look at, these are just guesses 

It looks like you have a very wide bottom rail. Try making the newel post as wide and see if that helps. Or narrow down the bottom rail 

Read up on "room divider" wall type

Just draw the plan once with no basement finish. Then copy the plan, keep just the basement level and finish to your hearts content. Submit it when the time comes. It will be much easier than anything else you're trying to come up with. You could have drawn it in the 2 days since you first asked about it. 

Something else to think about is that, depending on where you live, if you submit a plan with the finished basement on it, and don't do it in the first build, your occupancy permit may be delayed until it's done. Some locales won't issue the final sign off if the project is not built with everything done that was submitted. So I would keep your finished basement to submit when you are ready to do it and get a separate permit for it.

Check help or your reference manual 

Pony wall is how you do it. I don't know if Architectural has that option. If not, you may want to consider upgrading to Pro.

You'll probably have to do it as 2 separate plans. Depending on where you are in the design, keep one with the finished basement, then do the other with all of the house notes and info on it. 

Did you try it? Maybe start a new plan, go to file>Import>import 3D symbol. OBJ shows as one listed. I'd do it on a new blank plan just in case. I don't use any of the outside programs, yet it's just a logical guess seeing as it is listed as a file name to import from.

Try drawing a railing at the height of your gate in that area. Depending on the material needed to be used, you can make the railing solid, panel, balusters, etc. Then add your gate to the railing just put in there. Depending on the blocking you want to mount it on, likely a 2x PT, deduct 3" from the total width for your gate size and center it in the railing.

Bonus Catalogs>Exteriors and Landscaping>Exterior Egress

So we know what program you are using to try and help you better. 

shelf ceilings - look in the Help tab or reference manual

Please just post your question once in Q&A. Tips and techniques is where people post their tips. It's not for asking questions.

Please do everyone a favor who tries to help you by filling out your signature with the program (Home Designer Pro, Chief Architect X15, etc.) and the year (24?). Go to your user name, click on it>account settings>signature and fill it out. Thank you

Do you have auto build wall framing checked? Your reference manual or the help tab are good spots to get familiar with 

David, she's not asking about roofs.

My guess is you have your default floor setting to wood frame, which is why it looks high on the exterior, yet right on the interior. Try setting your foundation to a monolithic slab and see what happens 

Maybe try a back-clipped elevation cross section to get the area you want. You can zoom in and label each piece you wish to.Then when you send it to layout to print, use a 3/4" scale or so?

Yes

Save the plan you like as a master.  Then copy that plan and "save as" whatever you'd like to name it. Do that for as many variations as you want and your original stays unchanged 

That's too bad. Might be worth an upgrade then as other shortcomings are discovered 

Open the railing and set the newel location at the end or start of the wall depending on the location. Change the newel from half to none 

Have you tried changing your default to something that is in the program you have for those plans?