Halcyon

If I'm reading correctly what you want to do Vlado then go File > Export > Export Picture (BMP, JPG, PNG)... Works for me in Pro 2016.

I think it would refer to the grid lines on a topographic map, though I'm not sure how this info could be imported into HD software, or why.

I don't know about Suite, but in Pro you can specify the swing angle through the door specification dialogue. The reference guide should show whether this is possible.

Hi Genghis, A few of us here are in Oz and as you are well aware it is a big place, but I find that so often, no matter where I go, there is someone that knows someone that knows you. If you give us an address there is a small chance it could dig up some info. Is Google earth/street view any good - it can go back some years. As for learning to use the software - most of us, I guess, started from a position of little to zero design knowledge and you do learn. My experience you can view at http://forum.homeone.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=85625 Probably the first thing to do in getting started is to get a good handle on what the basics of the building were, such as wall type, window style & size, roof material etc. as getting the defaults right at the start will save you a lot of time later on. Best of luck. Pat

As a partial answer to Robborito. I was going to put a deck on my new house, which would have been over the garage, and a friend who is the builder of pricey homes - those in excess of half million dollars, said: "Not a good idea. You have to tank them (make waterproof), and they invariably end up leaking, but after the warranty period is over, which is 7 years here. An Internet search will find plenty of info on this topic.

Just going through this at the moment rfcomm. As has been said, you need to create a new layout for each floor, which means saving floor 2 as another .plan file and doing the layout from that. Ditto with elevations and sections - new .plan files for all of them. Probably you will make changes as you go along so the your house plan will now become 2 - upstairs and downstairs.

G'day Wiggy, I'm in Oz also. I know the wish to recreate everything, but sometimes it can be too much trouble or there is no need to. I used a column from the millwork section of the library to create a heater flue and it would do the same for stumps by resizing, but the program probably wouldn't show the house built on it, but as I say above, do you need to. That said, you would show the stumps in the elevation views and they can easily be drawn in using a box CAD polyline stretched to a rectangle and infilled as required. I've designed my new house on Pro and the plans are with the building surveyor awaiting the permit. I showed no foundations on my work as the concrete slab had to engineered and his work takes precedence over mine. Ditto with roof trusses. Similarly I spent no time on framing as the builder looks after that. If you are going to do all the plan preparation yourself it is a good idea to talk to as many of the tradies beforehand as you can. Pat

You can save a layout file to a pdf and the Knowledge Base will show you how to do this. Be aware that you can only do one page layouts with pro, but that is not problem as you will do a different plan file for each layout. ie. the design will be one plan file (if it is single floor), maybe 2 plans for elevations. Similar for sections. You will then do a layout from each plan file and save to pdf. Pat

Several times now my toolbar has disappeared and there seemed no apparent reason for this happening. It happened again this morning: working fine last night and then no toolbar this morning. What has change, thinks I. Ah ha! That damn windows update when I shut down the laptop may be the reason. Has anyone else had this problem around the time of updates? Back working again now after going through the route of renaming the toolbar file in the Data file. Previous time I had to do an uninstall and reinstall. Such is life. Pat

You've done well to master all that in 3 weeks HTM. It's taken this neophyte around 6 monhs to get to the stage of putting working drawings (layouts) before engineers or builders, but maybe you're younger than my 62 glorious years. All the info you will need is in the links that Eric posted. Best of luck with your project and enjoy it. Pat

The round cap column from the millwork section of the library also does a nice job as a flue. Cheers. Pat

Law & Eric. I have finished the drawings and have now started on the layouts and don't particularly want to start again ( for probably the sixth time). My fear (not unreasonable I think) is that once I start making small changes to wall lengths, all sorts of gremlins will enter the scene. Rounding to the nearest 10mm will make some walls longer and some shorter and my hard found experience is that the program does not like inconsistent wall lengths. At this stage my workaround will be to express the dimensions in cm's and then put a zero on the end of the number using the text function. A bit of work I know, but easier than fooling around changing wall lengths. A hint to the software writers: it shouldn't take much work to make this happen. Pat

I contacted Support, and as suspected, there is no way to round the dimensions in the way I wanted. Perhaps a feature to add for future editions.

Thanks for the replies English and David. I had looked at both these options, but they seem to go the opposite way to what I want. I think there is no way to do it in Pro, but will put it to Support and see what they say.

I'm at the stage now of starting to do my working drawings (layouts). The standard here is to express all dimensions in millimeters, but round them to the nearest 10mm. ie. 7774mm would be 7770mm. I cannot find a way to do this in my HD pro 2016. I could of course express dimensions in centimeters, but I am then not using the standard and can see a trady in a hurry cutting something to a tenth of it's length. Can this type of rounding be done in HD Pro 2016? In my state of Victoria only registered designers (and architects of course) can do plans for housing, but I think I can work around this and would like to get things close to right. Strange to say that one can build your own house, but not design it! I'm happy to post the plans,but think that maybe there is no need for this enquiry. Thanks. Pat

Thank you David & Eric. I know where to look now so will spend some time sorting it out. Strange thing is that I have been fooling around with that staircase for a long time and this problem has only come along lately. I'll put it down to gremlins. Thanks. Pat

The 3 screenshots show the problem. I'm OK until I hit the Auto Stairwell button, then the door gets walled in and half the floor disappears from in front of the door. I've spent 2 evenings trying to work out what the problem is, without success, so am asking the talented brains trust here if they can help. Anyone seen this before?Double cavity 2A.2x.plan

Thank you Mick and Eric.Easy once one gets a pointer in the right direction. Once I had done a search on 'shapes', I see that the inverted wedge has had a mention before. Attached an image of my completed job. Cheers. Pat

Can anyone please give me a pointer as to how I would finish 'sealing' off the staircase by running a small wall to the ceiling from the adjacent wall. Please view attached image. Thanks in advance. Pat

Good advice Eric. The joint direction tool worked a treat and I fixed the other issue with the wall by deleting the roof and redrawing it. I'm glad that I paid the extra money for Pro. Pat

Thanks Eric, I'll look into that. Pat

Thanks for the reply Eric. Yeah, my bad. I'm that used to working with grid maps where north is always at the top that I didn't think about it not being the case in drafting. There are 2 shed roofed areas. The one on the left (west) has a problem wall which is seen sticking out by itself in the floor 2 plan view. If I make it invisible then it disappears from the wall when viewed in 3D. Is there any way of wiping it from the plan view, but still have it in the 3D view? I've attached a pic of the problem ceiling rafters, which show up as the light coloured members in the right of the image. They form the ceiling space under the shed roofed area on the right (east) of the building. I can see no reason why they run the "wrong" way and are tapered. Any ideas? Much thanks. Pat

Hello, A new user here and my first posting. My query is re. auto generated walls and how they show on the plan. Hopefully there is a plan attached and you will see that there is a shed (skillion) roof on the east and another on west side. I manually drew the roofs and auto walls were generated above the existing wall: they then show up on the floor 2 plan. The east one I made into an invisible wall and that worked well. When I do that to the west side the generated wall disappears from the 3D view - not good. Can anyone tell me what is happening here? When I auto build the ceiling/floor for floor 1 the rafters on the east shed roof go at what I consider the wrong way and are tapered cut. I can delete these and then build manual, but would prefer not too. Again, what is happening here? I haven't fussed about sizing the framing elements yet, that will come later. Lots of other questions, but I won't push my luck at this stage. It has taken a lot of work to get this far, but have enjoyed myself immensely and learned a lot along the way and am impressed by the capabilities of this program and the helping attitude of those who frequent this forum. Thanks. Pat O'Connor In case it doesn't come in the signature, I'm using HD Pro 2016 Double cavity 2A-GV.plan