DavidJPotter

Contact Sales tomorrow is my advice, nothing here but opinions.

DJP

BTW I could not get it to work in Chief Premier X6 either and have submitted it to Tech Support as a "Bug". You should be able to designate two "Main Layers" and have framing build properly (I have done this successfully in past versions). We will see what they say in due time.

DJP

I couldn't get the framing to work either, it seems to be a limitation (bug) in that you cannot actually assign two "Main Layers" to a custom wall type as you would need for this particular wall type. It seems to only want to build framing in only one structural or main layer per custom wall type.

DJP

"True" is a subjective comodity relative to color in digital displays. Your video card has adjustments you can make, nothing is "perfct" out of the box except in terms of opinion or perhaps well calibrated measureing devices. They install adjustments for the reason that people sense color differently. My advice is to use the adjustments available to you or your technition  and when it is adjusted to your opinion of "good" then that is it. An image such as you posted looks blue to be and it will probably be seen as blue, generally to others  but only your opinion matters on your computer. Another variable is from color images made elsewhere, some variations of hue and other properties will be found to display even on the same image on different machine displays.

DJP

You download and install the software (if it is free then beware of bloat-ware that usually comes with "FREE" software ie.DO NOT SELECT "EXPRESS INSTALL" EVER, EVER, EVER!!!

What you do, DO is to "Custom Install" such applications so you can carefully read and uncheck the unwanted "free" applications (bloatware-malware-annoyance-ware) that "pays" for it being "free". You just wnat the useful part so make sure you just allow the useful part to install.

Then, once installed you set it up as if it were a physical printer (paper size, orientation, color or b&w etc) and make sure you properly set up Home Designer Page Set Up to match the intended PDF paper size (very important) and then, only after you have checked and double-checked your PDF printer settings and Print-Page Set Up Settings do you then "print" a PDF document.

Happy hunting.

DJP

Thank you for your patience, all I ever intend is to help. I am sensitive to the learning curve of others. I hope it is merely a procedural error only and if so, you will have it figured out and it is a worth while effort.

DJP

I am not sure what you mean by "...it did not support the files in HD pro.", I mean what you do is to install the PDF printer software, set up its drivers for the intended paper size and then select it as your "printer" of choice and then "print" (create) your PDF document. Then you create your layout pages and one by one print them to PDF format. You can print to PDF (create a PDF document) directly from a plan view but I prefer doing so from a layout file since this tends to look more professional and organized.

What did you actually do instead of the above, I wonder?

DJP

Since I do not have your PC or your specific conditions, I do not know. I have been being a user of Chief Architect Inc software since 1994 and cannot recall having any such behavior at all, what so ever so I assume it must be specific to your PC at that specific time perhaps agrivated by your newness to its tools and behavior.

DJP

I share plans and plan views using "Cute PDF" (there are other free and paid PDF conversion tools, I just prefer Cute PDF). You print your PDF views from your "Layout File" so you can professionally arrange and scale your views, in color and black and white (most my remodeling contractor clients prefer black and white views unless I know rather exactly what materials are intended).

High quality color render views take time and skill so I recommend that you stick to b & w until you learn how to manipulate materials and lighting to get nice looking render views.

Attached is a simple kitchen remodel PDF I made for a recent project

DJP

Grazing Deer-letter-09242014.pdf

The first thing to try is to, first make sure nothing (no objects) are currently selected. Once you have checked that nothing is selected, then and only then depress your "Delete" key and see if the point, point or x's then disapear. Temporary points are discussed in the Reference Manual as to their purpose and appearance (under the CAD Menu - Points" is a "Delete Points" tool icon as well which does the same thing the "Delete Key" does in terms of temporary points.

The "Delete Points" tool is discussed on page # 815.

If that is not "it" then I am at a loss to guess what you might be seeing (In your image, the "x" that I see does not actually look like a "Temporary Point", You might please share your plan file with us so we can then see for ourselves, what might be what.

DJP

A full discription of the "Materials List", its uses, disclaimers and limatations are fully covered starting on page 935 of the Reference Manual. On that page it states:

"The Materials List is based on certain

Just for grins, I downloaded your file and looked it over, if the resulting video helps you, well that is then icing on the cake, so to speak:

http://youtu.be/WISE58r1ywE

DJP

Just as an aside, I lost an entire hard drive back in 1999 which then contained four years of plan files. So since then, I keep my plan files on a separate hard drive from my drive "C", I have a software program that backs up those files to a third hard drive constantly as I work and I use Carbonite to back up that to a remote location. In other words I do not intend to lose any more files.

I have heard end users blame the software and or Windows for diverse reasons but in the end only you are responsible for success or failure based upon what you do or fail to do.

DJP

Welcome to the Forum!

Important posts/threads you should read:

Welcome New Users

How to get good answers

How to attach pictures

DJP

It is not unusual for the software to leave you unwanted loose ends, often auto-generated "Attic Walls" that serve no aparent purpose other than to annoy end users. The software is just mechanical, it does not think or have judgement and so often leaves you with its wrong actions to handle manually.

In many cases you locate the unwanted auto-generated wall segments and manually program them to be "invisible" (deleting them is often a waste of time since the software mechanically created them, and deleting them will merely cause them to be recreated again by the software).

I believe the unwanted wall segments will actually be found to exist in terms of plan view on the second floor or on the "Attic" level (A) where they can be selected and programmed (marked with a check mark) to be "invisible". Take a look and see if that is found to be true for you.

DJP

When you change the material settings for "Walls" in a Roof Specification Dialog - Materials Tab it changes all the walls irrespective of the wall type (glass in particular), so as the Doctor once said "Don't do that!". The Materials Eye Dropper and Materials Painter tools have limitations and you have found that limitation.

So when you have glass walls do not use that method please. What you do is to set the material of individual wall surfaces by way of each wall's Materials Tab found in each wall's Specification Dilaog - Materials Tab. To control how much of a wall is changed you use the "Wall Break Tool" to isolate just the wall segment you want to change and then change it a wall segment at a time.

The software is purely mechanical in nature so it is up to you to provide the control for finely defined results.

DJP

Say what software title and version you are using and also post a copy of your plan please. Not much fun for us if we have to guess what you are trying to do and with what.

DJP

Here is a You Tube video of what I think you might be wanting to do:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1y2XJSr2QRA&feature=youtu.be

DJP

Not to my knowledge but this would make an excellent "Suggestion" or "Feature Request" for the future.

DJP

You can use the "arrow keys" on your keyboard to move the camera and you can predefine a line or spline that the camera will move along as a path for animations. The smoothness or the lack there of is determined by the quality of your PC-video card and how you preset the walk-through in terms of fames per second. This is fully described in your Reference Manual and video tutorials.

DJP

I have always used "Cute PDF" for years and prefer it but I have never tried to use the print model feature. Usually the best source of help you can access is your Reference Manual for any experienced problems. Thoroughly study the section that addresses the "Print Model" feature to make sure you understand how it is intended to work.

DJP

Take a look at this You Tube video I made on this subject:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZXUi7r4S8k

DJP

Only Home Designer Pro allows the direct editing of wall poly-lines but you can get part the way there by placing the outer wall just under the edge of the stair object and it will cut off the wall top or you can set the wall to a solid railing and place it half way into the edge to get a solid slanted railing along the stair object. You may be able to fake a slanted wall using a superimposed, slanted soffit to emulate a wall or portion of a wall.

DJP

The thing about closed poly-lines is that they by default have edges. The line color and style can be varied but not done way with as far as I know.

DJP

If your window and door dialogs have an "Arch" tab then you are all set, just place a window or door and then apply an "arch" to it. If you do not have an "arch" tab then you will need to upgrade to a software title that offers that choice.

You can also just check you Library Browser and see if there are any arched door ways-doors-windows to serve your purposes by looking.

DJP