Staircase baluster and newwl location

[MarcGaumond]

Good day all,

 

Purchase HD Pro 2014 a little than a year ago and worked on it for my verenda project last spring.

 

Now inot trying to complete some interior detail of my house.

 

It is a 2 story house with basement (basement, main floor and second floor).

 

I am trying to replicate my staircases: 1 from the basement to th emain floor and 1 from the main to the second floor.

 

Question is how can I adjust the distance of the newel and balusters from the step edges?

 

Both staircases are against a wall (right side). I have a railing on the left side only.

 

Right now the staircase newel and baluster generated by the tool are too close to the edges of the step.

 

In te case of the basement staircase, the rail on the left side stops at step #4 becasue I have a close wall going to the ceiling for the remaining of the stairs. 

 

I can post a picture later when I get back home if more details are required

 

 

 

[Kbird1]

posting pictures or even the Plan file are always good ideas so we can understand what you are trying to achieve otherwise we are just guessing 1/2 the time, ie I am not sure what you mean by "too close to the edge of the Step" .

 

The solid wall at the rail bottom is do-able by placing a wall there instead of a rail or changing that part of the  Rail ( wall break tool) to Solid perhaps and setting the height to the ceiling, different ways work in different situations and there is usually more than one way to do something.

 

There are other posts here on the forum about similar question , so you could also try the search function, look for answers from User "solver" (Eric), I know he has posted on this before with images etc.

 

M.  

[katalyst777]

Question is how can I adjust the distance of the newel and balusters from the step edges?

 

Both staircases are against a wall (right side). I have a railing on the left side only.

 

Right now the staircase newel and baluster generated by the tool are too close to the edges of the step.

 

In te case of the basement staircase, the rail on the left side stops at step #4 becasue I have a close wall going to the ceiling for the remaining of the stairs. 

 

I can post a picture later when I get back home if more details are required

 

I'm not sure if Pro 2014 had this option, as I went from Architectural 2012 up to Pro 2015, but in the current version of Pro, you would just turn off the railing for the Stair, then manually draw a railing over the top of the stair inset however far you want, and mark is as "Follow Stair" in the Railing Specification dialog.

[Kbird1]

ok ...if that is what you are trying to do then Kat is correct the "Auto Stair Railings" cannot be changed except for the settings in the Staircase dialog , like spacing ,size and height , placement is automatic though.

 

If you draw the Railing too close to the edge of the staircase it will fall to the ground , though you wont see that till you look in 3D, so it is handy to use Shift F6 to split the view so you can see what is happening.

 

M.

[MarcGaumond]

Great, I will try this when back at home and try to add pictures of the model and the actual staircase.

 

Just to try to clarify what I was trying to explain by "being too close to the edges of the steps":

 

The newel is sitting on the second step (the first step is at 45deg from the stair and does not have space for a newel).

However, because it is too close to the edge, it is represented going through the step, the stringer and the raiser below. Also the rail does not line up with the center of wall thickness at step #4 

Difficult to explain but I will post pictures.

 

Thanks again for the quick reply.

[MarcGaumond]

Ok here's the picture of the basement stair (P1030676) and the current model snap shot (Stair basement 1).

Notice the newel sitting on the first straight step (second if you include the 45deg step) and the half newel at the wall intersection.

In the model, the newel is sitting at the corner of the second step so close to the edge that it cuts the raiser, the stringer and the step. I could not locate the half newel at the wall intersection (forth step).

Also notice the handrail is not center to the wall but on the outside edge.

I will now try the rail wall option.

[Kbird1]

check the box in the railing wall DBX for Square 1/2 post at wall to get that.

 

post the plan so others can have a play and figure it out if needed.

 

M.

[MarcGaumond]

Thanks Mick for offering the opportunity to look at my model.

 

I started the model last year to get to my project for the backyard veranda.

An experienced eye will find probably few instances of bad modeleing technique.

 

Has issues with the roof, the pool stairs, the cheminey.

 

Now trying to complete the interior details for the remodeling of the second floor bathroom.

 

Need to add the stairways. I have started with the basement to main floor stairway and then planning to move to the main-second floor stairway .

 

I have tried to create the basement stairway as 1 stairway with 3 sections but for some reason it didnt worked out as planned.

Section 1 was for the 45deg first step;

Section 2 for the next 3 steps before the closed left side wall;

Section 3 for the remaining steps landing at the first floor.

 

The basement stairway is sitting on a small "landing zone" which is 5 inches higher than the basement main floor.

The idea was for the main stairway to start from that "landing zone" level but it did not work. Instead it started from the basement floor (as did all stairway I created thereafter).

It also created separate individual staircase.

 

Thanks again for all support and help.

 

MGaumond 2015V1.plan

[Kbird1]

1st know that it may not be possible to duplicate exactly 100%  what you have there in the real world (ITRW) as some settings just can't be changed by anyone.

 

For stairs to "snap" to landings they MUST be exactly the same width...if not you must put a break ( with break line tool) in the landing edge where they connect, then they will auto-join and not sit on the floor. Also have a look at the Stair information in the Manual as the Stair Tool will Auto build landings with a single click IF you build the stair in the right order  ie landings last. There are other posts here about this feature too.

 

M.

[Kbird1]

1st glance at plan:

 

you need to zoom in on your landings and resize them so they are not over lapping each other

 

3rd straight staircase isn't as wide as the stairwell on right side, drag to drywall, also turn off "nosing at landing" checkbox.

 

when you have 3rd stair case selected click on autostairwell icon on edit toolbar to open floor to main floor.

 

I changed the Auto railing to an interior stair railing wall , but this cases the wall under the stairs to disappear (fixable I think) but I see something I haven't seen before ,the Balusters have no bottom, not sure if a bug or not , may have time to look again later.

 

M.

 

[MarcGaumond]

All right,

 

Had some time tonight to play with the model.

I erased all stairs and landings and start over.

I created a first stairway (1 step), then the main stairway (with 4 sections) and then the landing.

After locating the modules in proper location, I strech the landing edges to the adjacent walls (using break lines), I adjusted the stairs width, remove the rail, stringer.

 

I then tried to modify the first step to make it at 45deg (using the Alt key and dragging the first stair anchor points).

 

This is the best I could do for now.

 

I tried to turn on the winder feature for the first section only to make the first step strech to the right wall corner. Unfortunately, this could not be done because all the 4 sections winder check box also turned on. Seems I cannot turn on the winder for only a specific section. When doing this, the second step stretched to the left wall making the model useless. Same thing happened when I tried to turn back on the rail on the left side of the stairway. It created funny figures at the bottom.

 

I will next try to recreate the room below the stair (where the water tank is located) and create the stairway next. I might just create the main to second floor stairway with the open below feature on. I guess this should open the main floor below for the basement stair to appear on the main floor view.

 

Here's what I have now.

 

Going to bed now as it is almost midnight.

 

Thanks again for your help. Will keep you updated.

 

[Kbird1]

A winder staircase needs walls ( invisible if needed) to work AFAIK ( check manual)  but for a single step I would use a landing rather that a staircase , you can stack them up 3 or 4 or 5 deep even if needed to make them look like stairs , it is quite often how we build them on the job too, just set the top and bottom height for each one ,so they stack up eg 0"-7" , 7" 14" ,14" 21"  for 7" steps (risers).

 

The Auto Stairwell button on the edit menu will do an automatic "open to below" opening if you click it after placing a staircase , you can do the open below your self if wanted though or just alter the auto one as needed after letting the program do it's thing.