BoDay1

Hello,

I've just about finished drawing this unconventional home that we will be remodeling.

Almost all of it is coming together just fine after much work.

However, when looking at the building from outside there appears to be some extra soffit and/or ceiling plans being generated along the outside of the building.  I have attached an image with red arrows indicating the problem.

I can't figure out why they are being generated or how to get rid of them.

I will also attach the entire plan if that might help.

Thanks,

Bo

Fickle Main Draft.zip

Got it!

Thanks for the help.

The key was I had to be under "craftsman style".

I appreciate it.

Bo

Thanks for your willingness to help.  I'm trying to make this type of thing.

Thanks Solver,

I did as you suggested and the Help describes some options I don't have.

I don't have a Left or a right and the "Movable" options is not active.

I have HD2024, are these options not available in this version?

Thanks for your help.

Bo

I can't tell if it is possible to create movable window lites in HD2024.

I can create lites with no problem but they default evenly spaced and I want to move a lite to make a 8" detail at the top of the window.

In my window dialog box there is an option for "Lites in Movable" but that option is not active. 

Is it possible to move lites in HD2024?

Thanks,

Bo

I'm struggling to find library items for a commercial kitchen I want to draw.

Tripple sink, floor drains, mop sink, commercial dishwasher, hood, etc.

Any ideas on where to look or how to search for this stuff?

Thanks,

Bo

I'm able to get pretty close to what I want by hanging an additional ceiling in the space.

Then I have drawn 4x8 rafters with no problem

Now my only struggle is that those rafters won't show up in Perspective Full Overview.

They are visible if I drag them outside... but there is some setting that won't allow them to appear "below" my ceiling?

I have attached the plan.

Can you see what I am doing wrong?

Thank you,

Bo

Quail Valley Raised Roof.plan

Good morning,

The problem is that I don't know how to adjust the thickness of my roof sheathing. 

Or if I can't adjust the thickness of the sheathing do I draw a vaulted ceiling?  or is there an easier way?

Thanks,

Bo

I'm trying to show an existing brick chimney.

In the past I have received much help on this forum in regards to using the custom backsplash tool.  So I have created the shape using that tool with no problems.  I understand about establishing the backsplash on a wall, then cutting it, then pasting it into space so that it is not locked to the wall.

However, when I move my chimney towards the wall it will get about 18" from the surface and then "jump" to the wall and lock itself to that surface.  Can I prevent that from happening?

The issue is that when the custom backsplash is locked to the wall it will not extend above the roof line. 

Thanks for any thoughts,

Bo Day

Henry Existing Kitchen.plan

Hello,

I'm adding on to an existing log cabin with a T&G wood ceiling.

My roof framing will be as follows.

2x10 rough sawn rafters @ 48" OC (bearing on the wall and a heavy ridge beam)

2x6 T&G fir decking on top of the rafters.

2" thick ridged insulation on top of the 2x6

1/2" OSB on top of the ridged insulation

Shingles on the 1/2" OSB

--

I want to accurately show that thickness.  I have skylights in the addition.

Any advice would be appreciated before I spend hours going down the wrong path.

Thank you,

Bo

Quail Valley Raised Roof.plan

Hi jlliles87,

I'm definitely still inexperienced  with this software.  But what Solver and Jo-ann taught me was that the backsplash tool can be created against a wall (as it needs to be) but then selected, copied, and pasted into space.  Once it is pasted into space it becomes wonderfully manipulateable in both a 3d view and in the plan-view.  But that is as far as my knowledge goes.  If you are working with a backsplash that you have already pasted into space and it is fighting you then perhaps one of the more experienced people on this forum can help you.

I have noticed that when moving various things very close to one another, such as decks close to walls... or parallel walls close to one another.. that the software responds differently if I use the keyboard arrows to "nudge" something versus click-and-drag.  Have you tried using the keyboard arrows to move the backsplash into location?

Bo

Robborito,

The backsplash tool with cut and past was absolutely the way to go.

I ended up drawing a full span as a single backsplash... then just copy and past.

I put one outside the building in this Snip just so you can see.

Way easier than what I was doing before and the backsplash stool doesn't have all that automatic stuff associated with it in the way walls do.

Cheers!

Solver, I can't thank you enough.

That is exactly the information that I needed.

It's really an interesting experience learning from you and the others on this forum.  It is so clear that my main difficulty (I have many!) is knowing how to ask the questions and what questions to ask.  All my struggles were with the wall (and roof!) that I was trying to use.  But that simple fact that a custom backsplash can NOT be dragged off of the wall... but it CAN be copied and pasted off of a wall is a game-changer.  Now I see tons of potential for that tool and understand exactly what you have done.  The additional tips on efficiency with the replicate tool are appreciated.

Thanks again for your patience and help,

Long live the "custom backsplash" tool!!

Bo

I really appreciate all this help.

I don't think I have much confusion about how to use the Custom Backsplash Tool.  I watched the video suggest by Solver and basically understand that stuff.

I think my problem is that I am making the "wall" incorrectly... I can not place a backsplash on the surface of my wall the way I am attempting this.

I made a simplified version of my problem (with a  single layer wall with a 1" thick main layer) and you can see I have a variety of backsplashes in the snip... but none of them are on the surface I need.

Solver and Jo-Ann, how are you creating the sloped member and what surface are you placing your custom backsplash on?

Bo

Steel Column.plan

Hi Robborito,

Thanks for your interest and sorry for my slow response.

I've attached the old, original plan set for the steel building so you can see what I'm trying to recreate in Home Designer.

I don't have the exact dimensions for the steel but you can get a basic idea from the attached PDF and maybe work out a method for drawing that.  I will go back to the site pretty soon and take measurements.

What I've done so far was to draw a tapered shape using the Interior Wall tool.  It looks OK but doesn't really seem like the best solution.  The wall tool would be better suited for this if I could create a Wall Type that was only 1-layer.  But I don't know how to do that or if it is possible.  But I did make a wall type with three thin layers and that sort of looks like a single piece of steel. 

But my real struggle was in trying to create the perpendicular steel surface.  The actual thing in the real world is essentially "H" steel that tapers.  The "face" and the "back" are about 8" wide.

I tried taking Solver's advice and using the "Custom Backsplash" tool but could not figure out how he made a backsplash that was angled/ sloped.  I can't tell exactly what he did but his looks pretty better than mine.

Instead of using the backsplash I had some look using the "Roof Plan" tool as that lends itself to being sloped.

Any thoughts you have would be appreciated.

Bo

Steel Building Plan.pdf

Solver,

Can you tell me more about how you are able to use the backsplash tool to follow an angle like you show in your image?

Bo

Thank you both for these ideas.  I will give Sketch Up a try... and also work with the backsplash tool.

I have another project coming up that involves work on a log cabin and I imagine I will have some struggles with some of the logs... perhaps Sketch-up will help with those.

Bo

Hi,

I'm drawing an industrial building that is supported by tapered steel posts and beams.

I'm struggling to make the steel components and looking for some advice.

What I have done so far for the exterior of the building is to create a wall type that only has an exterior surface and minimal framing.  I messed around for a while with the autogenerated framing but could only make steel studs with parallel sides.  So I then deleted all the framing and made interior walls to serve as my steel members.  I can get the shape/ color as I want them but they are hollow which looks a little funny from some angles in 3d.

I also messed around with tapered columns but couldn't modify the amount of taper or which sides tapered so I gave up there.

It was also a bit laborious and I wonder if there is an easier way.

I'm attaching a couple screen shots of the inside of the project as well as the plan. 

10th St Existing.plan

Thank you both for all this help.

David, last week you you addressed my issue with the pendant lights hanging perpendicular to the sloped ceiling rather than perpendicular to the floor... but I didn't understand your response.

What does it mean to place the pendant lights "in a new unit of time."?

After cleaning up my roof plans/ ceiling plans and benefiting from your help with the skylights... today one type of pendant light will hang correctly... but other types will not.  Weird.

Thank you,

Bo

Hi David,

Apologies for the slow response.  I appreciate your help.

I've attached a zipped file.

I created the ceiling by selecting the room where I am working-- the kitchen and dining area.  Then unselecting "Flat ceiling over this room".

I then used the draw ceiling tools to draw a ceiling over the space and sloped the ceiling.

Bo

Brandi ln. Draft 2.zip

I have a sloped (vaulted) ceiling.

My skylight shafts do not connect with the ceiling so 3D shows an opening into the roof framing.

Also, pendant lights hang perpendicular to the ceiling rather than straight down.

I suspect that I drew the ceiling incorrectly but I'm not sure where I went wrong.

Note that the ceiling does NOT follow the same pitch as the roof.  This is not an accident.

I can't attach the plan as it is larger than the 14 MB.  If that seems necessary to get help I may be able to figure out how to ZIP my plan.

Thanks for any help.

Thank you for that help.

I think I had misunderstood the Make Parallel/ Perpendicular tool and I couldn't seem to get it to do much.. I was trying to use it to make things ALIGN.

After your help I see that it is the least useful for aligning object and these other tools, particularly the center tool, seem to be much more intuitive.

Thank you,

Bo

I'm so grateful to the folks that take the time to help with questions on this forum and I hate to ask questions that seem too simple but I can't find a tutorial to help me deal with those basic tools that deal with aligning and moving objects.

For instance I simply want to make 6 different text boxes all line up nicely with each other.... or a bunch of can lights all line up.

Can someone point me in the right direction to find tutorials for these tools?

Thank you for taking that time to explore this.

I'm afraid it may have been caused by some hardware problem with my machine.  The purple halo was present for two days as I worked.  Today as I fire up my computer to get back to work the halo is gone without doing anything.  I apologies for asking for software help when my issue seems more likely to be hardware at this point... perhaps my graphics card is struggling and the particular type of line around the sinks triggers a difficulty.

Once again, thank you for your time and expertise.

Bo

Of course I can easily simply create a file without the terrain and work on that... I really only need all that terrain for my plot plan... But I guess I'm curious as to why the purple appears when I am working in a large terrain.