Kbird1

I'm not sure either about Punch software compatibility but AFAIK only HD PRO can import DXF (not DWG) Files.

is Punch the same as........3D Home Architect® (Version 3.0 and 4.0).  ?    the product matrix says it's compatible at the very bottom but I'd still ask.

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/products/product-chooser.html

there is often a Sales agent doing live Chat on the Product Page during Biz. hours too

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/products/home-designer-architectural/

I suspect you mean an i7 processor ( there are no 7ghz CPU's) but it sounds like you may need to update your videocard drivers

Please fill in your Forum Sig (see mine Below) and add your Computer Specs and we should be able to help some more

M.

your original image is WAY too small I can't see anything in lime  or blue , I could barely see the ceiling finish problem...

the plan I looked at E. was not auto build

more detail is always good

I wasn't inferring there aren't Mac issues , I just haven't seen any reported here or on Chieftalk , there are "known" weirdness issues it seems if you are the type that doesn't turn there Computer off Daily and just lets it sleep for days or weeks at a time before a reboot ,and at least on the PC side rebooting at least once a day seems to cure most of it in the latest versions.

M.

You can't just Shrink it in 3D to make it look "right" we know it isn't , so something else is up , so some images of the real house and the real measurements might help someone help you , without that info it is pretty hard , even with the plan.

There is the KBA on how to do a F.R.O.G. too did you see  it?

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00904/creating-a-bonus-room-above-a-garage.html

Hitting F12 frequently to rebuild Walls /floors/ceilings and hitting Save (Ctrl-S) frequently too is always a good idea in HD Software. F12 is one of my mouse buttons now as it doesn't always update automatically , there is info in the manual about it , I'm surprised the Tech didn't mention it too. Their is also the Rebuild 3D icon on the 3D menu or wherever you place it with a custom toolbar. 

the reboot your computer once a day is a windows thing too and the 1st recommendation if you see weird things happening in HD, but I am not aware of any MAC specific Errors graphically or otherwise , at least not reported here or CT.

I see/saw either two different roof planes or the RH wall is shorter than the Left , neither happened by itself , which is why I asked too look at the plan. Closing the plan would of updated it automatically which is why support saw nothing in this case.

The Soffit tool is under Cabinets ( a throwback to when drops were put above kitchen cabinets)  they are very useful for all sorts of things as are the Shapes in the Library , both of which can be used anywhere , indoors or out and have any material applied to make them look like what you want.

The horizontal trim can be a Soffit too , it's just going to be real fiddly to do a whole house that way. this article should help

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00902/applying-exterior-decorative-details.html

M.

Not on a per Wall Basis no , you can set them all to be 1 layer , 2, 3, etc , but a wall is a wall to Pro as Eric said.

Only way I know , is to do it Manually, since you have Pro I think, it's possible , delete the 2nd rake Top plate and pull the studs up to meet the single top plate in and Elevation view ( works in 3D too but not very accurate ,best be in Vector view so you see the individual members.) And don't ever rebuild your Framing your you'll need to do it again....(auto 2 plates is on)

M.

Post the plan and update your Sig. then we can advise....

looks like User Error to me....

M.

The CertainTeed library has FC Shingles you can use for that look

However in Suite there are no Pony Walls , so you would have to use Soffits with the shingle applied as the material, and  the Soffit slide upto the wall carefully in plan view.

Do a Forum search on Pony Walls for more info , this isn't the 1st time I have seen this question.

You may also be able to do something with Wall coverings in the Wall's Menu if Suite has that option?

This is how the Trim band (bellyband/watertable)   is added in other versions

https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00891/adding-a-belly-band-to-your-house.html

Answers will depend on what software you have so please update your Profile Signature , (see mine below for a how to)  , so you get appropriate help for your version.

Reading above I assume you meant to attach the plan file too? ( always a good idea)  or more images ?  ( talk of side a,b,d, etc etc)

Solver, the link you provide seems to be confusing. Assume I have already constructed floor 1.

 

Do I follow steps 1-6 under "To build a second floor with gable walls" and then continue with steps 1-2 under "To build a roof ignoring the top floor"?

 

Or do I skip steps 1-2 under "To build a roof ignoring the top floor" and go straight to steps 1-6 under "To adjust the second floor"?

 

Or do I skip steps 1-6 under "To build a second floor with gable walls" and go straight to steps 1-2 under "To build a roof ignoring the top floor"?

 

Because by skipping the first 6 steps and going straight to steps 1-2 under "To build a roof ignoring the top floor", then when I get to steps 1-6 under "To adjust the second floor" there is no second floor room to click on.

That is cos by skipping 1-6 you didn't create a 2nd floor AS NEEDED...... if you skip stuff in a Tut. it wont work... the steps are VERY Specific....

The rest depends on your Design , which I don't know.... if not building off the 1st floor walls ignore those 1-2 points as it says and follow the rest of the Tutorial.

Otherwise just follow the steps EXACTLY , they didn't put them in there just for giggles

M.

do you have the Display of Attic Walls turned off ?  cos if you have a room and a roof it should auto build , perhaps you just can't see it?

M.

Don't get me wrong , the ML is my biggest Pet Peeve with Pro/Prem.  after the 3D views for Clients it was the 2nd reason I bought Pro but as mentioned if its not in the  Model it aint in the ML  ( except foundation steel and bolts)  and it doesn't calculate to industry standards , you can't even add a global 10% for waste/fudge factors etc. It is slowly getting better and Scott Harris (VP) has told me they are working on it but that it will take a couple of versions before it is a lot better. 

However it does most of what you mention Eric , it will list plates .studs etc , the tough part is that it doesn't break it all out in nicely named groups , any short blocking etc you add to the model is added to the list as Fir Stock , all the short pieces not a "named" piece  it's adds together in the ML or lists them depending on the Structural Member Reporting set Options. 

If you turn on Wall framing in Plan view you can see how it frames the corners etc automatically , and if needed in a 3D framing view you can change things around , add extra beams posts etc too, blocking etc.

I think we need a new Thread   but there a numerous posts on the ML here and at CT too , though I find it works for Architects ........... most Builders hate it for it's inaccuracies , and non Industry Std Calcs.

Hopefully you will raise the base on something to allow moisture accumulation to evaporate.....

To answer your earlier question about why accurate framing details are important:

 

1) As a builder I want an architectural design program to generate an accurate and detailed cut list.  Neither Pro or Premier offer this feature.  For example, Pro generates total lineal feet of framing lumber required but does not break it out by individual stick length which is necessary for bidding and purchasing lumber.  Tech support admitted all of the necessary detail information is contained in the program, however neither Pro or Premier offer this level of detail to users.  The gentleman whom I spoke with said they receive numerous complaints on this from builders.  Their solution:  manually add up individual stick length requirements.  Ugh.

 

2) Often a plan reviewer will require an up close, specific construction detail be shown on the drawing.  In those situations the drawing must represent precisely what will be built.  

No idea who you spoke too but they didn't know Pro or Premier which can do both of the above...............

1.) Turn on Cut list or Buy List and you get "stick lengths"............  default is total lineal ft.............(RTM)....

         .............BTW  it only calcs' sqft, in the plans, not per industry stds. (waste etc) and if it aint in Plan it ain't in the ML ,

                                     it's not a true estimating Program 

2.) You can also produce detailed Cad Details in Pro , their is even a KBA on how to do it.....

               (the more accurate the model the less manual work to do.)

If you want help with something Post the Plan and ask specific questions , to get good Answers we also need to know you Software and version. Pls fill in your sig.

Update your Profile Signature , see mine below for a how to  , so you get appropriate help for your version.

This may help:

 

Being able to select a general building type i.e. straw bale, tin shed, lightweight insulated (weatherboard), single and double brick, ceiling height and roofs would be enough to get a rough room plan layout sized out up to a couple of stories. Throw in a few toilets, sinks, chairs, beds and tables or rough blocks again to check the interior dimensions actually work.

 

The tool is actually constraining the design concepts at the moment I have a 4x4 meter tin shed which is currently represented by an insulated clad building with a hipped roof and eaves - hard work to clear out stuff that isn't required at this stage.

 

 

Marquee select the whole building to spin it or hit delete and it's all gone in about 10 secs.... ( read up on Edit modes in Pro)

And don't forget the Space Planning tools and the premade Grouped rooms in the Library for quick planning too

http://3dlibrary.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?YII_CSRF_TOKEN=7f6c5f8e4717d0d97c415d3eb8dd17c2635945a2&r=site%2Flibrary&search=&x=true&hid_cpca=0&hid_cpu=0&hid_ctm=0&hid_ctnm=0&hid_ctu=0&hid_order=&hid_norotator=false&hid_soft_family_1=0&hid_soft_family_2=1&hid_soft_1=0&hid_soft_2=0&hid_soft_3=0&hid_soft_4=1&hid_soft_5=0&hid_soft_6=0&hid_soft_7=0&hid_soft_8=0&hid_soft_9=0&hid_version_4=1&hid_version_3=0&hid_version_2=0&hid_version_1=0&soft_family_2=2&soft_4=4&version_4=on&x=0&y=0

As for the bathroom, its a long story .  But to make it short. The house is located near the ocean so the owner probably prefers going 'LOCAL' in the mangroves. 

Thanks again.

I think your Client needs a Bigger Loan ! 

Delete what you sent at 1/4" (default) to layout and resend at 1/2" ........not right ?, delete and rescale as needed till it fits nicely.....if you drag the box or resize it , it will no longer be at scale...

It really depends on what you are measuring to and from Rob ,drywall, framing, subfloor.finished floor etc etc which isn't on your sketch , the best way is in elevation is to setup some CAD lines , split the view and then play with roof pitches and inform baseline measurements till it right..

as you can see in my and Erics pics,  it depends on how you interpret how the measurements were taken and how we understand what you wrote.

With Gambrels you need to keep the Eave overhang short 6-8"  or you get weird looking stuff  happening and the roof will overhang the windows. 

In this case you can built the gambrel off the 1st floor walls or 2nd floor platform  all Auto , no problem , just remember to set the in from baseline measurement to say 12-18 "

I am not sure why your spiral stair is 150" high and has a Roof on it though? I deleted them in this plan. 

plan not attached as you can't open it in 2014...

PS I think you forgot to hit attach for some of your images , there is only one.

It should be doable in the Structure tab of the Room , down at the bottom , if you changed the Floor Default already , you should be able to just click the default check box in the Flr Str. area. of the Tab.

3:12 is about as low as you can go pitch wise , so your wall height is already at max  height and your roof still flow thru to the old roof.

only option ..........lower the floor ?    

okay just joking  actually the only real choice is to continue the hip roofs all around the house if the client wants full height ceiling at the cheapest price. 

Actually I have to ask where the bathroom is ....?

if you put a wall break in the exterior wall where you added the addition , it fixes the wall hole

The roof needs a bit of raising and resnapping to get the two planes to meddle nicely and give your gutter back , the roof base line (RBL) is off the wall , so move it back in 1st , then adjust the top edge to meddle it nicely after raising the Roof plane to 85 1/4 inches 1st see pics.

  as noted    in the other thread you new kitchen ceiling is real low about 6'4" at the Lourved windows.

M