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About davidstvz

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  1. Yes, it seems if you have changed the applied material, then applying again from the library will insert a new copy (even if you don’t rename the original). But if you apply a library material already in the plan that hasn’t been edited, then it will just use that reference instead of inserting a new reference which can be edited separately. The only way to leave the original untouched is to use the tool with the spray paint icon, choose from plan materials and click the copy button. It’s a little unintuitive.
  2. Quick question: is there a quick way to apply a material as a copy using the dropper tool? I just want to grab a material with the eye dropper, then apply it as a copy (so I can set a different rotation from the original). I know a bunch of other ways to do that, but they're all kind of slow.
  3. Thanks, I hadn't noticed the Azek profiles. There's still not a proper brick ledge, but some of these are thicker and probably the best option short of manually creating a sill, or upgrading to chief to customize your own molding profile.
  4. Yes, the problem is there sadly aren’t any molding profiles with the size and shape of a brick ledge, so all you can do in HD Pro is disable the exterior sill and manually create a ledge with soffit, closed geometric shape or custom counter or backsplash tool.
  5. davidstvz


    I didn’t know there was a fireplace tool. I will have to try it. I modeled a fireplace by placing a doorway without molding and then building my own firebox from soffits inside the opening. This gave a better and more custom result than any of the prebuilt fireplaces I saw in the library.
  6. davidstvz

    Polyline Solid

    HD Pro doesn’t have polyline solids but you can accomplish a lot of the same shapes using the custom countertop or backsplash tools instead. You can also convert from countertop to polyline and back again. Just right click a closed pol line or counter top and look for “convert”.
  7. With default settings, the program turns on the nearest 20 lights (nearest to the camera), but I think it starts with the lights in the same room as the camera. So if you have a room divider that can affect the result. If you want to take full control of lighting for renderings, you should open the lights dialog (I think it’s under 3D in lighting) where you can start by turning all lights off then only turn on the ones you want. At the top of that dialog you can see the setting showing that it only uses 20 lights. You can either crank that up or check the box below whic
  8. Solver: yes, my mistake. Radio buttons.... I really butchered that term! DJP: yes to be more precise, I should say that copies of material definitions are stored in the plan file, but as you say the definitions don't include texture data, only references to the texture files. This doesn't seem to be a problem for anything using the core catalog texture data (I suppose that data is in the default search path or something), but is a problem for custom textures.
  9. Short version: search for a material called "milk glass" in your library. It seems to look identical to this Laquer Finish you found in the Urban Chic template. Long version: plan files can contain materials which aren't in your libraries. In fact, every material used in a plan is copied from the libraries and stored in the plan file. So, there can be many materials in a plan or the templates which aren't in the libraries. Best thing to do in this case is look for an alternative which might have a similar finish to what you desire. You can then change the color or tex
  10. True, the different room/wall heights do allow for different roof pitches along a wall. What the program doesn’t allow is a change in roof pitch associated with a single long wall with the same height (even if you split the wall and set two different pitches).
  11. I agree in general as you can tell by the widely different settings I used to get the shots above. I was just looking for tips and tricks I hadn’t discovered yet if anyone has them. One thing I’d like to do is make darker sun shadows or figure out a way to adjust them in any case. That might be best done after the fact with a photo editor.
  12. First, you're right about this. You can divide an exterior wall and set two different roof pitches, and the program just picks one. It's kind of maddening to be honest. I found two ways to deal with this. You can start by trying to make two separate roof groups. If there are rooms corresponding to the rough outline of each roof section, put them in two different roof groups (select room, open object properties set different group numbers above 0). This will cause two independent and non-interactive sections of roof to form. The other way to do it (short of manually
  13. I think almost any device will work pretty well (provided it's not really ancient or extremely lacking in basic resources). The trick is to disable all of the fancy features for your basic 3D editing work, and only enable the fancy features when rendering final shots that need to look good. I have a bad habit of navigating around with my physically based rendering settings maxed out because my computer still does it fast enough for it to be functional, but I'm much happier if I take a moment to switch to standard mode until I really need PBR. If you're buying a new device, my num
  14. I'm wondering what settings and tricks others are using to get good PBR shots. I've found the default settings for physically based rendering (exposure 0.2 and HSB all 0.0) don't look very good in most settings. I've gotten some good looking shots, but using very unintuitive values for the settings. It seems the only settings we have to work with are found in "3D -> Rendering Techniques -> Technique Options" on the "Physically based" tab, and of course the lights themselves and material properties. We can change camera exposure, and HSB (hue, saturation and brightness). In the camera s
  15. I would say that device will do just fine. If you're having any performance problems at all, it will be when navigating around in the 3D views in a fully detailed house (and this is probably an issue no matter how powerful your PC is). If that is ever a problem, you can set up one camera with graphics features minimized for navigation and editing, and set up physically based rendering cams with all the bells and whistles for generating nice images when you need them. HD Pro has many nice features over Architectural. You won't use them all, but here are some I've found most helpfu