FlightDeck

Members
  • Posts

    104
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by FlightDeck

  1. Thanks Eric! I just came back here to post that I found that exact option by accident while working on something else! Apparently the interior sill is hidden below the finished floor, so changing the "Height above floor" from 0 to 1" makes the threshold magically appear. (And reduce the door height the same amount if needed to keep the frame unchanged.) Cheers, KDJ
  2. Hi all, hope everyone is well. In HDA16 I'm trying to turn on the display of a threshold/sill for an interior door (for transitions between flooring types in adjacent rooms). The door specifications under Casing has "Use Sill/Threshold" checked (was on by default), and under Framing the "Sill Thickness" is default (1.5") and the "Double Sill" is default (unchecked). I've tried various combinations of these settings on an interior door and I'm unable to make a threshold/sill appear. Exterior doors happily show a threshold / sill of course (in the same material as the exterior trim), and have the exact same sill settings in the door specifications as the interior doors. Is HDA16 hard-coded with no possibility to show a threshold sill in an interior door? Thanks and regards, KDJ
  3. Not what I was recalling / hallucinating, but very useful! I may be able to use this. I note the table gives counts rather than area (for example 3 sheets of drywall). I'll check the forum again to see if I can find the example I'm recalling. I've just checked custom backsplashes and countertops and I see that both of those show area, perimeter, and volume under Polyline in their properties. This is very close to what I recall seeing, but I thought for some reason we could do it for walls. I also recall that whoever posted it was indicating that different versions of the software so more info. His might have been from a CA product as I recall the dialog box was full of data.
  4. I think by now it's becoming clear that the area display I thought I saw before (I think it was in a post here somewhere) must have been imagined, and that the software does not have a simple "what is the area of this wall" tool.
  5. Because I don't want the area from all the walls, only specific ones (different coverings). As mentioned I can't figure out how to get the area option to do a wall. The materials list that pops up shows subfloor and base moulding, but nothing about the wall (and the values it shows appear to be from the entire floor rather than just the rectangle I select).
  6. Not in my case. Even though both sides of the room dividers have an Open Below room above them, both sides have identical floor and ceiling heights. (In this case the room dividers are being used purely as a workaround to permit different mouldings on different walls in the same room, as discussed here https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/1868-disable-mouldings-on-individual-walls-in-a-room/). These dividers are however ending at complex corner junctions of multiple walls of differing types/thicknesses, and I've found these corners are always problematic particularly when editing things. It's possible that the room dividers are looking at floor/ceiling heights on the other side of these corners and seeing differing heights that way.
  7. Thanks Kat. I did try the Area option but it only lets me select an area on the floor. I can't figure out how to select a wall with it.
  8. Thanks Kat. Oddly enough this isn't the case. They are however below a room that is "Open Below". I wonder if that's another trigger.
  9. Thanks Eric. Nice to know I'm not going crazy! (Well I am, but for other reasons! ) Sometimes I've tried altering the thickness back to zero but it rarely works. Will give defining the wall type a try. It's bizarre I didn't have this happen in HDA. Maybe somehow none of my HDA models had the issue that triggers it.
  10. Hi Eric, I haven't used that before. Playing with it now but I don't see how to select a wall to get the details for that. And if I select the Room option nothing seems to happen.
  11. Hi, I saw a post on this from 2014 but the "solution" wasn't clear. I've noticed since using Pro that the default zero-thickness Room Dividers keep converting themselves into invisible walls with the thickness of a default wall. I can't be certain but it seems to do it when re-opening a plan or maybe using Undo. I never recall seeing this issue in HDA. How do I make it stop doing this? Thanks
  12. Hi all, I could swear I've seen a window in the software somewhere that shows the area of a wall when clicked, but I can't find it now. Where is it? I want to use it to quickly get the net areas (without window/door openings) of walls to estimate the amount of tile, drywall, etc. Thanks!
  13. Wicked tip!! Thanks, Eric!
  14. I think others already beat me to this... Yes, they sort of do..., kind of... When I drag one window/door into another, their frames will merge (meaning the wall between them goes away). I believe there are some settings to control the details of how they merge, though I haven't explored them. Anyhow, in this way the windows/doors will appear as a mulled group, both side-by-side and on top of each other. Here's an example from my current model made from 7 separate windows: Moving them, however, is a slightly different story. For side-by-side items, if you click one and initially drag it along the wall *away* from the others, they will separate. If however you instead initially drag it *towards* the others, they can be moved moved as a group in both direction until you release the mouse button. When the groups are more complicated, such as vertical stacking, I select them as a group using one of the methods the others have mentioned (ctrl-click, usually), and then I can easily move them all as a group. Unfortunately we can't group them into an "architectural block" in the HD software. So overall it appears to me the the ability to *create* mulled doors/windows fully exists within the HD software. The handicap is that they are a less easy to move around in HD, but it's still achievable.
  15. I'm confused..., isn't mulling just a group a smaller windows (and doors) making up one larger one? I do that all the time in Arch and Pro versions by just dragging the windows/doors into each other so they merge. Is this what we're trying to do here?
  16. I found that once it's a triangle it can be resized and snapped to other geometry just like a rectangular soffit, so didn't need to do any math at all to have things line up.
  17. Thanks, I did try the sketchup import before using the custom countertop instead, but of course it comes in as an object rather than a soffit geometry so it doesn't behave the same way in the model, and it's resize options are limited. Raymond's solution above is the best so far as it does exactly what was needed. It's a shame it's such a non-intuitive way to access though, as it's a useful feature a lot of users probably don't know exists.
  18. Ah cool, it worked, thanks!!! There was a catch though: the wall corner needs to be 90 degrees first. When I tried doing it with an angled wall corner, it wouldn't make the angled soffit. So instead I used a 90 corner to get the angled soffit, and then moved it over to the angled wall corner to fit. Thanks!
  19. Thanks, Eric. When I tried that before the roof plane made a real mess of the model with the roof sticking down through the middle of it, lol. Similar when I tried a ceiling plane. I wasn't sure how to clean it up afterward. Do you mean I should create the plane way off in space somewhere separate from the model, so that it doesn't show up where it matters? If so, I understand. So far though the manual placement method is working so I think I can live with that
  20. Secret setting!! lol Okay got it, thanks! Here is the actual model redone with this attic wall technique and patched with one "soffit sheet of drywall": Pretty much seamless underneath, and no more problem with the stair stringer trim on top. I tried the ceiling (roof?) plane idea but had zero luck with it. No idea how it works. Found it easier to just fiddle with the sloped soffit. Using a cross-section view through the stairs to see the alignment from the side was very helpful.
  21. Would a "full roof return" do what you need? Check this help manual, page 16: http://cloud.homedesignersoftware.com/1/pdf/documentation/home-designer-pro-2014-users-guide-roof-tutorial.pdf
  22. Thanks but as I said, I can't extend any of the walls. It's not how the real building was actually constructed. It's all open under the stairs. It's a small utility room/closet space maybe only 6 ft by 5 ft total, containing a hot water tank and a stacked washer/dryer and some storage space under the stairs. I appreciate the effort though! Eric's method of lifting up the bottom of a wall section to align with the underside of the stairs was very promising at first, however I was unable to patch the missing drywall shown in his pic. I could get the portion under the stair stringer covered with a sloped soffit, but I was unable to cover the portion missing from the corner of the wall. The hole there seemed to "eat" a chunk out any soffit I put there so it was impossible to cover it. I've currently used the soffit method to close it the wall gap instead of the wall raise method. Soffits were easier to make the underside clean up properly. Here's the result in the actual model: Note the shading effects on the soffits don't match the stairs even though the colour / material is the same (drywall). Weird. (The stuff over the water tank and dryer is unrelated and is just a ceiling bulkhead for a duct and a built-in shelf.) Unfortunately a piece of the stair stringer trim is missing where the soffit is. Haven't figured that part out yet: I was however able to put Eric's wall shaping tip to great use on a sloped wall top for a privacy screen on the deck. Thanks again, Eric!
  23. Thanks but as I mentioned in original post that doesn't work as it cuts up the space in the room if it drops all the way down to the floor.
  24. WE CAN DRAG THE TOPS / BOTTOMS OF WALLS??!!???!!! Excuse me while I go outside to scream for a while!!... When the - ??!! This would have been useful so many times! Is this in HDA as well?? If it was I could have used exactly this feature for some vaulted ceiling situations, but was always told I had to buy the Pro version! Also thinking maybe I can use this for the top of a tapered privacy screen on a deck I've been working on. Okay thanks Eric!! I'm playing with this option now. Yes unfortunately it leaves holes in the drywall (but thankfully not the floor or mouldings).
  25. Okay underatanding a little better now. After placing a soffit you can check "Sloped Soffit" in its properties to make it go up/down inclines. Maybe that helps?