Kbird1

if you need the .plan to look at G.A.M , let me know....

M.

There are 3 current Libraries for download from HDS Content webpage , Keith but as David pointed out you can grab an image from whatever Brick company you are planning on using there in the UK and apply it to your Brick walls in the Plan.

HD Libraries

http://3dlibrary.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?r=site%2Flibrary&search=brick&x=true&hid_cpca=0&hid_cpu=0&hid_ctm=1&hid_ctnm=0&hid_order=&hid_norotator=false&hid_soft_family_1=0&hid_soft_family_2=1&hid_soft_1=0&hid_soft_2=0&hid_soft_3=0&hid_soft_4=0&hid_soft_5=0&hid_soft_6=0&hid_soft_7=0&hid_soft_8=0&hid_soft_9=0&hid_version_1=0&hid_version_2=1&hid_version_3=0&ctm=on&soft_family_2=2&version_2=on&x=15&y=10

You are Looking in HD Core Library not the Manufacturers Libraries   eg  Eldorado Stone  (BeachWalk , I don't have a Hartford in '10 )

If you Find something in the Browser like that , right click the Item and it should give you the option to "open it in the Browser"

which will take to the normal Library "Tree"

M.

I have been a bit disappointed with the SS Textures in Pro 10 , so earlier tonite I played around with some pics of SS from the internet and made some new materials ,and while i'm no expert at this stuff , they look better than the included ones I think ,so I figured some others might like them too. Images below will give you an idea of the look , but using the Material Definition Tool you can change the "emissive %" on the Properties tab depending on "how shiny" you want it. They should apply fine to faucets etc too. 

Unzip the library and import as usual , they will be in My Library>Stainless Steel    ( X 4 materials with diff. "grains and shininess)

if you have a '10 Title or above they should work for you.

Stainless Steel Library.zip

Mick.

Have a look in the KB for the tutorial on Split Level Homes , it should give you some ideas to work with.

As Elovia said , no reason floor one Rooms can't be 0" Floor height © in DBX and the "Garage room" on Floor 1 to have a floor height © of -24" for eg.

which may mean the ceiling height in the garage is 10ft not 8ft to keep the second floor all on one plane/level , the Split level Tut. will help you sort that out.

M.

Definitely do able , I'd use invisible walls to get the roof to build over the front section since you don't have a deck or Porch there .

draw the 1st floor of the house              and then set left and right wall to "gable wall"

add invisible room on front (bottom) with 3 walls , set invisible room to have no floor strucuture and no ceiling , check use Soffit material box too, and then set left and right wall to "gable wall".

build 2nd floor derived from the 1st.     set finished ceiling height to 48" ( you mentioned)  and then set left and right wall to "gable wall"

build basement / foundation and add terrain perimeter if desired  

Then build the roof   (hopefully it came out right ), now turn off "autobuild roofs" in the Build Roof DBX so it cant ever change again....

Add Posts and beam to Front roof for Support , looks like you have Branches now...

hopefully you have something like this..

You can temporarily disable Sanps by holding down the Control Key (CTRL) while drag the object with your mouse, it will then not snap to anything.

The Open Material trick does the same for me even if thickness is 1/16th ", I'm using Pro 10  , with Pro I don't need to use it luckily as I can turn them off if needed.

M.

Not in Pro 10 , but it isn't usual to have to label those so don't think there'd be automatic, you'll have to label them with text boxes + Arrows found in the CAD menu.

Usually it pretty obvious what is what if you have a full set of plans in front of you.but The builder maybe trying to figure out which way the trusses etc run but the roof framing plan is usually done by the Truss Engineer not the Architect as it has to be Engineer Designed.( in most jurisdictions for Code)

I would give him a Roof Plan AND a Roof Framing Plan , they'll be less Cluttered that way, and is pretty standard for most Constr. Doc. Sets

Also add Roof Pitch indicators to your drawings if not done too.

.

1/8= 1'  is usually only used for Siteplans , 1/4" is more usually and 1/2" for Details/sections

unless of course you are printing to 8x11? you can print to PDF as well and he can have them full sized at a Copy Centre too.

A new feature in 2015 I guess ... It was 5 floors total previously I think ....   ie  BM_1_2_3 Attic. 

thanks for the heads up....

M.

This Workaround does work , still need the wall breaks I believe but on the second storey level of the 12/12 section you can reduce the floor structure to 2" with 0" floor finish , you don't have to use the "default" setting which is 12" , you can also uncheck the box "floor under this room" to eliminate much of the height gained.

Build the whole 12/12 section 1st with the 2 storeys , then add the one storey 3 1/2 pitch section or you'll add a 2nd storey to the 3 1/2 section too making it even taller, then build the Roof(s). The Eaves won't match due to the Pitch so you'll need to lower the wall in the 3 1/2 section to match maybe 10-12" for a 18" overhang.

Note I have Pro 10 so these options my not be available in other titles?

M.

It's not usually advised but some do it ,such as in the case of Walkout basements...... but HD Titles only allow 3 floors plus an attic so that method may not work for all.

but the foundation walls when built will align with the Main Layer (usually framing unless changed) of the 1st floor walls , so as long as you have your wall layers setup right and the Dimensions set to indicate off the right layer (Main) when you build the 1st floor the basement will auto build the correct size, and if needed you can always resize the main floor slightly so the basement is correct if needed.

So followup links on Walk-Outs for the technique and whys etc:

https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/63-walk-out-basements/

https://forums.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/1066-walkout-basement-stuff/

M.

Couple of more good answers 

If your book was referring to a Childs room it may have mentioned 24"  or perhaps as a media centre ,eg for a large screen TV to sit on but it would be too low for most as a desk, chairs average 17-18" high with Office/Exec. type chairs being higher at the seat.

M.

Can you not in Arch. customise the Toolbars and their locations ?  and even the Buttons on each toolbar etc , it's handy if you like things a certain way , I can in Pro10 but are not sure about other versions. If the Edit toolbar isn't on the bottom , just drag it down there....  you may need to unlock toolbars in the Tools>Toolbars>customise>Toolbar tab 1st.  this is the same place you configure the Toolbars to your liking...  in Pro at least.

M.

if you can turn it off as K777 has said you maybe able to cover the lines with a Wall covering or a thin Soffit (1/8") applied to the wall from the countertop up. 

on a side note your cabinet is shown as 25 1/2" high , Correct?  24 inches is pretty short if you plan to sit at it desk/table like , you wont get your knees under it possibly?

Standard tables are often 30" , desks can be taller especially if they have keyboard Slides.

Thanks for the info guys ....

Glad to hear it was only a Layer issue RR and an easy fix.

M.

Good info Elovia , nice, new info on the Status Bar ,make sure it is on by default in your Prefs. RR.

How do you both liking 2015 , still considering the upgrade myself since there is finally multi-monitor support.

Doesn't the scroll bar "pop up" on Macs once you hover over it? I don't like Chrome as it doesn't have them either...

two more Thoughts...

- perhaps the image didn't import on the "Image Layer"  ?

- or you can set it's default layer to "Images"

There is an Image check box in Display options , at least in my old version , (Win.Pro 10 ) if that is , there is also a setting in Edit >Prefs.   "to always show images" I think ? or something like that , maybe it over rides the the Display Options setting?

You are on a Newer version and Mac too , so things maybe different ?

M.

don't do much landscaping , but I think there are 2d (images) and 3d plants in the library, may depend on what you choose .

when you upgraded did you re-download all the Core content and Other libraries?

you can also import 3D Plants from 3DWarehouse (Google Sketchup) too .

there are 3d Trees available online to eg Tenkei Kobo's library , just be careful where you download from and make sure your antivirus etc is upto date.

M.

Nice suggestion Elovia , good to see you back on the Forum too

Ginger yoru image didn't post on Chieftalk for the same thread....

Hi Bob I see you got, great.

a bit more info for you and others who read this..........

you don't need to open the .skp in sketchup at all, HD(Pro) will import it okay if it is already a version 7 or below file in Pro 10.

(each HD title/year will import different files)

Don't know about SU2014 but Version 8 of sketchup lets me SAVE AS to any earlier version easily.

you will get the convert error message when you open a .skp from any version other than the Program's version you are using , so you just need to be careful and use SAVE AS ( version needed) rather than just hitting save, if you do that it will save as 2014 or whatever version you have. Newer versions of Sketchup can also save as .dae files which are for MAC computers too, so you should also be able to import a .dae into Sketchup and convert it using SAVE AS to a .skp of the version needed to use in Windows too.

Were you trying to open the zipfile with Sketchup ? you need to extract the .skp file from the .zip (zipfile) first.

M.

using invisible walls is one way , make a small 4'x4' room in the middle of the deck from invisible walls , connect those 4 walls to the deck railing if needed ( version 10 and before ,see image), set the room spec. to "open below" and turn off ceilings and roofs for the room too. On each invisible wall's DBX >general tab> check the box "Railing" as well .so you don't see drywall in the hole.

One of the Deck tools may work similar , have a look on the KB for tutorials about Hot-tubs  too.

Mick.

call tech support if you are in the US or try the Skype Chatline perhaps , a videocard issue is likely as David said , assuming you drew "something" before setting a camera view to look at in 3D , try one of the other views eg Vector or Glass house does it work.?

Hi , David we both know the materials list generation is very quirky and not only with ICFs it does it with CMU walls too...

The block used in HD is actually 16h x 48w x 12 Deep  , you can alter the measurement to read 12" ( 2 1/2 is the foam thickness not the wall thickness)  by selecting the wall and opening the Component DBX , double click on the Size (its under wallboard for some reason, here at least) and edit 2 1/2 to 12" and hit ok ( not add).

However I don't think that size controls the real size the program uses to draw the ICF and calculate the Materials or not but at least the schedule will print right.

Just drew a short ICF Wall for my own knowledge and while the Mat. List shows 40 blocks , the Pic shows 21 , 6 rows x 3 full blocks= 18  (plus 6 rows x 1/2 block) +3 = 21

So I am guess I've done something wrong too ? I love to clear up this confusion so I could use the Materials as intended when I brought Pro but I can't trust it . so end up doing take offs by hand.

What the error about  "Cannot find SF,18-Lumber " is on the materials list is a new one on me too. how this comprises a "Buy List" I am not sure since I've never seen a lumber yard selling 12'9 3/4 lumber  , you have to buy a 14' , looking at the list I actually need (28) 14' and (4) 16'  ( for the deck , I haven't built , nor a Roof ......I drew a single wall 159" long, in 12" thick ICF only. and did a take off from Area, also  note there is no Rebar allowed for whatsoever either for the ICF cavity.

M.