Kbird1

Have a look on your City / County's  website it vary's as to what is needed but they usually specify what is needed for Permit Applications. but usually something along the lines of :

Site Plan ( include site coverage)

Survey Plan  ?

Drainage plan ( maybe on site plan) ? 

Floor Plan ( per Floor)   ( may need existing and proposed)

Roof Plan

Framing Plan

Elevations

Cross Section

Typical construction Details   (eg section thru wall foundation to roof)

Structural Engineers Drawing  ( you need a Pro for your State for this)

M.

Nice !
using Invisible walls to make porches , is one I use all the time if there are no rails needed but I want the roof..... looks like your roof pitch was just set wrong initially and it grabbed onto and joined the skirt roof that was already there or the Room height was wrong for the porch room.

The disappearing wall is the automatic attic wall , the more you play with the design to fix things and use these kind of workarounds I find the more messed up they get. Sometimes it's just cos the 3d view hasn't been updated , so I use the F12 key ( Rebuild 3d) a lot in these situations to make sure something really isn't fixed yet or just needs updating...

Do you have corner boards on your Dormers or do you have another issue? I don't see them on the other corners ? and it's not usual for Log Homes.

You might want to continue the Skirt roof across the Front Façade too? ( or all 4 sides?)  to help keep the weather off the doors and for getting from side to side without getting wet , but it also helps to break up the Front so it doesn't look so large and imposing especially since it is Log.... perhaps that's the look though ?

kinda like this but up higher :

here is a PDF of an article from a few years ago....

Mick.

perspective camera icon ( looks like camera) IF in Full camera mode... but the tool tips will tell you what the icon is for when you hover your mouse over it , and select Dollhouse from the list.

or on the menus at the top  3D>Create Orthographic View>Dollhouse.

There is a whole section in the Reference Manual on 3D Views , page 625 in mine.... if you don't have the Ref. Manual , the PDF download is linked under the help menu at the top. don't forget to save it to your computer or you'll need to download it each time.....

M.

I have Pro 10 , so not sure if Pro 15 has any built in versioning ?   I keep multiple Versions of the Plans.

Materials Tracking is only as good as your model and makes a lot of assumptions. Material's lists are "snapshots" only, when generated, and are not dynamically update once created, you can make them as often as you want and export to Excel etc though.

Costs are only tracked if you are willing to input all the costs into the Master Materials list 1st, might be wrong but I don't think there is a way to import materials costs from Suppliers but am no expert on it , it's one Feature of Pro I wish they would enhance---greatly.

I use Pro , and usually I do my AB   "As Built"   (existing)  Drawing and save it as Residence_AB.plan  , then use Save As , and Resave the Plan as Residence_Proposed.plan , then start incorporating the design changes ( there maybe 2-3 or any no# of "proposed Drawings #numbered),   then when Done Create a Residence_Final.plan . 

Since you cant save with the Trial you can't do this to test though , but HDA is capable of doing this too , if it's capabilities are enough , and they are for many especially if you have the time to play around with "workarounds". There maybe no need for Pro if only doing one house for yourself, your budget may decide that of course.  I like Pro for its ability to do some foundations easier and drawing Roofs manually ,which is handy if the rooflines are complicated.  If you are doing your Own CDs , Pro would be better, if an Architect is involved , he'll deal with those so no need for Pro for that ability.

M.

Figured out the Problem with the soffits not showing full width vertically ...they NEED to be buried in the Stud partially (1/4-1/2") or they get cut off by the glass.

Funny ... I removed my link to that Thread cos I thought I had the wrong kind of Window and he really wanted Frameless....

but pretty easy ...once you know the trick

make sure "ignore casing on resize " is set in Defaults>Plan

while in there set >Window>minimum separation to 1/8" 

then in Plan view  drag the window out through the corner with the Ctrl Key held down , and you should see the corner of the window change to a 45° angle,

then do the same to the other window. you may need to "play" with the window sash/frame/casing sizings to make it look right. and perhaps the "recessed" setting. 

if you change the window sizes you will likely need to "rejoin" them.... just repeat the "slam into corner trick" above.

M.

It certainly took a lot of time ,too much for something that should be easy, and a bunch of zooming right in , lining stuff up , and I didn't even do casings etc .

And of course you'll have to do the framing manually ( or Steel beams)  too.  assuming you need CD's and not just an Image....

M.

So did the half wall and soffits work for you Mark....?

Think I need the Queen of Workarounds, JoAnn,  to visit the Thread and elaborate on her "process" in the post I referred to cos changing that wall to a Pony wall works to a point but forces the wall out of line ,from the Break point to the corner for some reason.  And Soffits wont generate fully when trying to get them on both sides of the glass either.  Maybe one of my settings is off , not sure?

I got it done in the end but had to make a new wall definition , copied from the Glass shower wall , and adding thicknesses to the wall on the outside and inside of the glass using "opening-no material"

for the Soffits , I had to use Slabs (with white material) so they would generate both sides of the glass and into the outer corner....but not sure why Soffits didn't work.

Mick.

vertical soffits not full width

Tried another corner , and made them red to see easier

used Slabs for the Sills and frame in the end and Soffits above the windows with siding material.

I know you put your heart and sole into this stuff and no pay off.......  ( where's my emoticon with the tears?) .............joking...... joking......          

at least there's a Thank You . most don't even bother with that....

M.

I haven't seen or heard of this before , so as David said Contact Support Directly.

I'm sure others would appreciate you reporting back to this thread , incase they run into the issue too.

M.

thought I had seen more on this :

this is the best link from about 3 months ago

http://hometalk.homedesignersoftware.com/showthread.php?19392-Butt-glazed-corner-window&highlight=corner+windows



need to play with this myself...

M.

You may have a 3D driver issue with your videocard , if the view is disappearing , the fill window icon should bring anything into view , but try the other 3D views too eg Full Perspective Overview as you maynot be "placing the 3D Full camera correctly , which is why you may get a weird view. you need to Draw the direction of the 3d camera and stop on what you want to be the focal point of the camera , when using the Full or Floor Cameras.

Try update your video drivers , if you are still having issues.

Yes David the OC is set Globally but if you follow my "Edit" instructions above and create a new 12" OC material and assign to the wall's main layer, and then build the framing with "Use Wall Layer (Materials) Setting "  it will auto frame on 12" centres as seen in the image above.

It seems HD/CA defaults the spacing for 2x4 walls to 16"  and for 2x6 walls to 24"  , so you need to assign those walls the correct spacing too , so when you use the   "Use Wall Layer (Materials) Setting " above your normal walls will frame at 16" OC (if 2x6) too.

once you do this once though you will always have it.....

Mick.

Yes , Sorry Eric , I was forgetting that Pro can't export 3ds or obj models only import them.....

Sketchup can work with Kerkythea with the Kerkythea addon though.

M.

I have seen a few people mention Kerkythea actually which is free AFAIK but not aware of the details on it's usage.

http://www.kerkythea.net

Might be a question for the Chief Users on ChiefTalk a number of them are very good 3D Artists as well .....https://forums.chiefarchitect.com/    lot of other good info their for Pro Users too since Pro has about 1/4 of Chief's features.

You would need software that can understand the 3d models Pro can export at a minimum is my guess ....

I assume you have "played " with all the settings in the Edit>Prefs>Render> Final View  Tab  such as the % and size of Triangles, ? wont ever be Photo Realistic but maybe "good enough"

M.

you can define a new wall type with the main layer at 7.5" ( copy siding 6 for eg and change main layer to 7.5 from 5.5) and then change wall types in the Wall DBX might be tough to get 12" centres automatically as I think Build >Framing>DBX is for all walls , so you may need to frame that one wall manually , ie make one stud and then use Transform /replicate to space copies every 12" on centre along the wall. I just downloaded the Trial , not sure if anything changed from Pro 10 to 2015....i'll take a look.

M.

Edit. there is a way but it took almost as long as my manual method for one wall above The Wall Framing is can actually be spaced with the LIBRARY MATERIAL assigned to the wall type main layer. so all you need to do is Copy the Fir Stud 16" Material to you User Library , Open the Material and change the Spacing to 12" and rename it Fir 12"OC, then when you Define/make your new 8" wall type as above , assign the new 12"OC material to the main layer (stud), it will then automatically space the framing per the material not the Floor Default ....IF you check the box "Use wall Framing Layer" in the Wall Panel of the Build Framing DBX. Make sure your Other Walls Material for the main layer is set to the Fir 16"OC material not the 24"OC too , mine was defaulted to 24"

lot of "ifs" so read carefully

Mick.

That is correct    and why deleting the invisible wall and adding Interior walls is the very last instruction in post #13.

M.

Yep you missed some steps....

"quote"

Make sure to close ends of walls back to house

or you won't get a room definition or a Roof.

At the end of the invisible wall you NEED to make a small 10" ? long return wall to the main house OR it will generate an "auto wall" as you see (blue)

Make sure you don't have these "auto walls" at the top corners too , ( should be nothing there) or you wont get the whole C shaped room as one room definition. and hence the Skirt roof generated.

"quote"

Delete Invisible Wall running lengthwise separating 2nd floor if desired

(ensure auto Roof is OFF 1st ) and add your Interior walls.

once the Invisible wall is deleted you can add interior walls as desired.

Mick

Search this forum or the Legacy Forum , there was a topic on Cl. windows about 2 months ago.

there is also a Knowledge Base (KB) Article / tutorial , it says it works with Suite.

http://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00492/

M.

JoAnn , has HDA 10  and I have HD Pro 10 ( and HDA9)  but in my 2nd example I only used Tools available in HDA , ie I didn't use the Manual Roofs in my second example as a learning experience for myself , JoAnn's post and my Post #13 will get it done in HDA for you.

This is the one with JoAnn's method..........

Hi JoAnn

Yep got it The Dormer forms just fine when you do the split room trick ,which was why I wasn't seeing the need for the upper/lower pitch...and the roofs met at the peak as desired in this case.....

however when adding the skirt roof with your wall trick , it screwed up the Dormer walls , which the upper /lower pitch fixed .

Great Tip for those with Pro and Manual Roof Planes.

I was making Notes in a Text box on my test plan so I can Reference it later (from your post thx), and added some points others can use too I think.



Set floor 2 with ceiling height at 30".
Now Add invisible wall down the center of the room. Open the room
on the Top and raise the finished ceiling to 8' (Default). Select
the left wall and follow the roof tab settings shown in pic 2.
This creates the 'dormer'.

ie set the upper/lower slope pitches and the "in from baseline" #'s

You may need to play with Baseline # to get Roofs to meet on Ridge.

　
In pic 2, notice the invisible walls drawn around 3 walls of the
building (they are dashed red). It is kind of like a really skinny
(depth) invisible porch, and this forces a roof to build ( thus creating
a 'fake overhang').

　
ADD these walls on the 2nd floor , 30" should be set Auto.
Reduce Roof Overhang by amount new outer walls are off the
Real Walls . ie drawn at 10" make overhang 14" not 24"


And make sure to set the new End Walls as Gables ,

and the new Outer wall as 10/12 pitch.

　
　
Make sure to close ends of walls back to house
or you won't get a room definition or a Roof.

Pic 3 shows a close-up of the 'room' details (the 'room' is colored
gold, for clarity).

When the roof is correct, turn OFF 'auto rebuild roof' and you can then
delete the invisible porch and the 'fake overhang' roof will remain.

Delete Invisible Wall running lengthwise separating 2nd floor if desired,
(ensure auto Roof is OFF 1st ) and add your Interior walls.

Nice JoAnn , I figured you'd have a work around of some kind

I'll have to try it , not sure why the Upper/lower Roof pitch setting is needed , as it looks like the 10/12 starts 12'9"  (153") off the wall unless that is where you Dormer roof ends?,

which means I guess that the "fake Porch Roof" is sitting on "top" (hiding) the other roof.

Mick.

I had a play with this and

- the Saltbox tutorial doesn't work for you as it builds the roof on top of the 1st floor walls , not 42" higher where you need it ( 2'6" stud + 12" thick floor)

- You can add a blank 3rd floor and build the dormer with exterior walls on that 1/2 the plan, with an invisible wall splitting the length of the building ,so that you can set the room height to 96"  ( the second floor is set to 2'6" with this trick) ,turn off "floor under" this room

-Elovia's trick to split the 2nd floor works too same idea as above ,

Unfortunately with HDA you don't have manual roof planes as far as I know so you wont be able to add the Skirt Roof  ,which makes it look as if you have a Shed Dormer.

But at least you can do your wall layouts etc for the 2nd Storey which is what the Builder needs ...

Mick.

Nice use of those Tools Elovia , I'll add that tip to my toolbox , thx.