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  1. That was easy enough. Thanks. I've spent plenty of time in display options toggling things but thought it was somewhere in my wall settings. I know it is probably frustrating to answer some of these questions but I sometimes can't see the forest for the trees or vice verse. Not to mention getting bogged down in actually doing the renovation. Also, no need to comment on #4 for the partition blocking. I realized that I need to do it the default way otherwise I will run into issues.
  2. Hi Eric, Following back up on this post finally. I was able to use your directions and move my framing reference to get the framing not be centered. A couple of follow up items / questions in case anyone else runs across this thread: My default floor plan layout renders with the solid walls. In your video, you have a rendering that shows the studs in the floor plan layout. I tried to figure out how to get that same view on my end but no luck. What's the secret? While it was cool that I could adjust the framing, I had to be careful about how much I did lest I turn off the auto-framing. I managed to turn off auto-framing by manually moving a stud and then even when I moved my partition wall or doorway the changes did not reflect back in the wall framing elevation view. If I just added the framing reference then auto-frame still appeared to work. One note about the framing reference. In your video you set a CAD line 3/4" off the wall and then snapped framing reference to it. I did the same thing but then noticed that the 2nd stud edge was 16" from the edge of the first stud. I'm pretty sure that the 2nd stud should be 15 1/4" to the edge (and 16" to the center). At about 2 mins into your video where you are zoomed into where the partition wall joins the main wall, I see that it is framed with a 2x6 on either side of the 2x4 block to attach the partition wall. Do you know if there is a way to change that approach? I'm dealing with 2x4s throughout and rather than taking three studs to create that support I'm planning to just use two fastened together. Partly because I'm running into spacing issues in my wall. Thanks again for the help. I agree with your commentary in the video that it is probably unnecessary to go into this level of framing detail if you are building something out and know how you are going to build it out. In my case, I don't have a lot of space to work with and was looking for a way to envision how my math was working out. Since the initial framing view was centered, I was worried I was doing something wrong. Glad to see that once I moved the reference that things fell into my layout almost perfectly.
  3. Thanks, Eric. That's awesome! You did one of these videos for me several months ago. I forgot about how helpful they were. I will have to play with this later this week. But it definitely looks like it will help. One thing I noticed that I don't have enabled is showing the framing in the floor plan layout view. I'll have to figure that out. I agree that normally I wouldn't go to this level of detail in the program and I don't really want to. But then again, I don't want to make the assumption that everything will fit either. And as someone that isn't an experienced builder, I don't want to screw it up and build it wrong initially. Follow-up question: Does the forum tolerate "What do you think of this layout?" posts? I've got quite a few things I need to work through and as much thought as I put into them, I still would like a sounding board to validate a few things. But of course, I know that most of the answers will be "It depends" and "Yes, you could do that" and probably a lot of "Why on earth would you do that?" Thanks!
  4. Yes, I have upgraded since my last post. I am using HD Pro now. Signature is updated. I think I upgraded specifically because I needed some additional control of defining my walls since my original walls were interesting: shiplap + drywall. I had always hoped that I could get things in the right ballpark configuration and have enough leeway to make things work. Unfortunately I am finding that trying to squeeze the bathroom and walk-in closet in a 14'-8 1/2" width is a little more challenging than I expected. And I can't squeeze the closet down too much because there is a specific attic access ladder that I am trying to accommodate as well.
  5. I am trying to understand the framing view of the following floor plan. In the floor plan below, I am pretty tight on space to try to squeeze the light switch between the bath/shower space and the door. It will be a new interior wall and I'm wanting to see if I will have enough of a run between the door studs and the pony wall partition block stud. When I switch cross section / elevation view and look from the bedroom into the bathroom at the framing, I don't understand why the first stud noted by the red arrow isn't the stud that then starts the 16" OC spacing. Is there something around the door or the partition blocks that is taking precedence? Is there a way to force HD Pro to start there? This is the first time I've been down to the frame view. I was mapping it out in a spreadsheet to see how things would line up. Surprisingly I managed to map it out fairly well but there are still some discrepancies that I need to work out. Anyway, if someone could shed some light on why that first stud isn't the start, or why I'm wrong for assuming it should be, I would appreciate it. Thanks, Matt
  6. Point taken. The Ctrl key was a big oversight. I used HD 10 years ago for floor layout when we were doing a remodel. Then shelved it and am now back for another remodel. This time I do need to spend more time on details and I am learning about a lot more of the capabilities. Good news is that I was able to use the soffit approach to fix the divider. There are still lots of details to work through in there as well, but I am moving on to other floor layout issues in other rooms. Thanks again!
  7. @solver - Awesome! Thanks so much for another video. I appreciate you taking the time to solve my specific problem. I also appreciate the fact that you read between the lines and could tell that I don't know all of the details of how to use the application and you peppered in several tips that you thought I might be missing. And yes, I was completely missing the Ctrl key tip. I've been wanting to get more fine-grained control in a few areas but never quite cared enough to dig deeper. Given my level, I always defaulted to "Well, I guess it doesn't want me to put that there for a reason." I've also only dabbled with the Center function as well. Good to see an example. And finally, I also appreciate the fact that you took the time to demonstrate both examples. It was interesting to see the slab example and I could totally foresee that it would show up in some of the views. I will probably move forward with the soffit approach for now, especially since you showed me the Ctrl feature. Question: I'm on the cusp of bumping up to Pro. I recently bumped from Suite to Architectural to be able to control my walls better since my house is old and the walls are shiplap plus drywall. I didn't jump to Pro but I could. Do you think that there are enough advantages to upgrading that will help out with various quirks and make my life easier? Unfortunately, given that I'm primarily doing this for my own home renovation I can't make the big jump to Chief Architect. Some time in the near future I will have to have you help me with my roof lines! Thanks again! p.s. You need a tip jar for your level and quality of replies.
  8. Thanks to you both for responding and providing options. @solver - Using a YouTube video is such an awesome way to demonstrate your point. While I'm new here, I've been around lots of forums for 20+ years and I think this was the first time I've seen someone do that. Very informative. I learned multiple things in just that 2 minute clip. Unfortunately, as you can see in my picture, I do have a little bit of a quirk in that the structure/framing appears to be cut out of the drywall where the new ceiling is located. I tried making the Ceiling Structure to be Drywall instead of Fir Framing but it didn't take. It did lower the glass though. @Jo_Ann - I learned something from your post as well. I had not used soffits before. From what I tried, it would only let me place the soffit *next* to the half wall. Ideally it would allow me to place it on top of the wall and let me center it. Centered on top is how it would ultimately be implemented. Certainly from a quick visual perspective, this would meet my needs but then lacks the implementation detail. Any other suggestions? Thanks again for the guidance.
  9. Thanks Eric. I knew that was coming and thought I had added it prior to my posting. Unfortunately I had only updated my Profile and not my Signature. It is there now.
  10. Hi everyone, I am trying to replicate the pony wall with the glass top in the attached "Pony wall shower.jpg." I am fairly close to recreating it using the Straight Glass Pony Wall. However I am unable to lower the top half off the ceiling to bring it even with the door height. I read that I should be able to adjust the height in 3D view by selecting the top half and using the size handles to bring the top down to the desired level. Unfortunately there is no top handle as you can see in the "Straight Glass Pony Wall Height Handles.jpg" image. It seems like I should be able to lower it but I am obviously missing something. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Matt