MikeBaldus

No, actually my question originally was about how HD Pro dimensions windows as opposed to doors. My problem was that HD Pro uses the rough side of the jamb instead of the finish side like it does for doors, and that it doesn't have an option to change that behavior. Because that behavior does not appear to be changed by a user, I will have no choice but to do math on the fly. For the purposes of sizing and locating existing windows onto a plan, I don't actually care that the program allows me to specify a jamb thickness, etc. It's not relevant in this case (if I were building new then I would appreciate the added functionality). I only mentioned it because it seemed odd that they gave users all that fine detail of options (jamb thickness, space between jamb and rough opening, casing reveal) but didn't give us the option of telling the program to use the other surface. As I mentioned before, it was a little harder for me to accept personally simply because I know the history of window making and sizing. Traditionally the interior dimension was the relevant dimension. But I feel I've already beat that horse so I'll move on. No, I did not know that - good to know! Unfortunately, here's what's still going to be required: I'm in a real world room, measuring everything, sketching it on paper to later build as a plan in HD Pro. I measure the room dimensions, including any offsets, alcoves, etc. and sketch it. I measure doorways, from surface of wall at a nearby corner to the edge of the opening, add them to the sketch. I measure a window, from surface of wall at a nearby corner to the edge of the opening. That's all I have to measure to. I can't see the back side of the jamb or the rough opening, and I don't care anyway. The only other thing there is to measure to would be the inner or outer edge of casings, but I don't know why I'd ever want to do that. So next I measure across the window, from face of jamb to face of jamb, and write that distance down. I then measure from the most recent face of jamb to the next corner, write that down. Proceed around room. I go back to computer, try to tell HD Pro what the distance is from corner to edge of window, it wants to use the rough side of jamb, not the face, so I have to deduct 3/4". I try to tell HD Pro what size the window is, I have to add 1-1/2". None of the dimensions I have written on my sketch at the site are going to match to the plan. My only choice is to do the math as I write down every measurement at the site, or do the math as I create the HD Pro plan and review several times because nothing matches my paper - what I drew in the real world. That would all have been easily prevented if they had allowed me to set an option to make the program behave the same way it already does at doors - dimension to the finish surface of the opening. I appreciate your patience Eric. Mike

Ha! Well I see it's just a matter of perspective! For my purposes of simply locating and sizing existing windows onto a plan, the finish faces of the frame are "accurate", and not incomplete. Why would I need to know or state the dimension of the rough side of the frame? Or even a rough opening for this purpose? I know where the outside edges of the interiors casings will be (so I don't place a cabinet in conflict for instance) because the program is designed to let me tell it the frame thickness and how much the interior casing will cover that. I can certainly see that for new construction using the outside measurements of the frame could be useful. But for the placing existing windows on a plan, I must measure to what I can see and then deduct for the frame in order to accurately place the window on the plan. You accidentally stated that backwards, width is always first. A 3040 would be 36" wide and 48" high. Many people don't know this today: the origin of a spec like 3040 came from how windows were measured in the long gone single pane glass days (when all DH windows were constructed in a very similar way). The spec measured the width of jamb opening and the height of jamb opening from top jamb down to sill at the outside face of lower sash. That was the standard. And from the frame/jamb opening you could deduct a set amount (I forget, but I think it was 5" for width and 6" for height) to get glass size. Likewise you could order by glass size and know what the finished opening would be by adding those numbers. And the jambs were all 3/4" thick, so any carpenter knew that adding 2 1/2"" to width would give a rough opening with a 1/2" play on each side. Today, every manufacturer builds windows in an entirely proprietary manner. There are no industry standards, all dimensioning is relative. I digressed. I had been trying to avoid that. Thanks for being there to help Eric. I'll just have to do a little extra math as I place the 29 windows on this house. Perhaps in a future release they will add the option. Many thanks, Mike

Hi Eric, The program is using the rough side of the window frames as both the "dimension to" point as well as the "specify to" point. It doesn't behave that way for doors, instead it behaves as one would expect: If you specify to the program that you want a 3'-0" x 6'-8" door (36" x 80") it will do the following: Give you a door that is the same size you specified. All dimensioning snaps to the finish side of the door jambs so dimensioning agrees with the door size. Produces a "call-out" size for the door that makes sense in the real world. As you can see in my new screenshot, the 3068 above the door is the "call-out" for a 3-0 x 6-8 door, just what you would tell the supplier (along with door thickness). For windows, it does all those same things except it uses the rough side of the window jamb. *I deleted a paragraph or two here where I sidetracked into talking about how windows (especially double hung) were traditionally built and ordered vs. methods today. So that was the long way of saying that the program should be treating windows just as it does doors: use the inside dimensions of the frame as the "dimension to" and specify to" points. Ideally it would use the finish face of jamb/frame as default but allow you to change that to rough opening in an option. BTW It's not using rough opening as you stated. For doors it uses inside of frame and for windows outside of frame. As you can see in the new screenshots, I specified a rough opening space of 1/2" on each side and it drew the framing accordingly. Both the dimensioning snaps and the call-out specification of 24310DH use the rough side (also called O.M. or outside measurements) of window jamb, not the rough opening. So you think there is no way to get the program to measure to inside faces of windows? The biggest reason I care at the moment is because I'm drawing up an existing building and that's the easiest place to measure to as you work around a room. Side note on HD Pro building the rough openings: On the window in the screenshot I left the default 1/2" space in each side and it drew the framing that way. On the door I let it default to 1" (which I thought was excessive) but it drew the space to what looks like 1/4". This may be a bug. Thank you, Mike

Hi, I'm hoping the answer to this question will be easy for one of you gurus. As you can see in the screenshot, the window is dimensioning to the rough side of the jambs (window frame). The door in the same shot dimensions to the inside face of the jamb, which is what I would like and rather expected from the program. Having installed my share of both, I do realize that windows carry the complication of not always being specified by the same call-outs as doors (windows can be specified by glass size, masonry opening size, etc. or by sash opening size which is what I would prefer in this case). All that aside, I'm puzzled that the program is dimensioning to inside of jamb for doors but outside of jamb for windows. Even more puzzling considering they give you an option to specify Frame or no Frame (I have Frame) and you can specify the Frame thickness (plus it makes me wonder what they're thinking for a window without a frame?). As you can see from 2nd screenshot, I have Dimensioning set to Sides for Openings. Will I have no choice but to deduct the Frame thickness and do the extra math every time I tell the program a window size? Is there no way to force it to dimension to the inside face of the jambs (frames)? Really hoping you can tell me what option I need to change! Thank you, Mike P.S. I'll be happy to attach the plan file if this becomes complicated enough to require it.

Wonderful Eric! Thank you! That cured both issues at once. Adding notes to my personal Help doc now... Thanks again, Mike

Hello, I've been working my way through the House Tutorial. Now suddenly when I select a wall, many times more dimensions appear than a few minutes ago. I can't see what I did wrong, hoping someone else can. It only happens on the 1st floor, it behaves normally on foundation level and 2nd floor. I'm attaching my plan file and a screenshot in case the plan file behaves normally for you. Separately, does anyone know how to undo a decision to display Auto Interior Dimensions? I know that I can uncheck the Dimensions, Automatic in Layer Display Options but then Exterior Dimensions go away at the same time. Currently it appears that if you once make the mistake of clicking the Auto Interior Dimension button you're stuck with them, or your only option is to toggle both Interior and Exterior together. Or go delete the dimensions one by one... It seems like poor software design to tie Interior and Exterior together like that, and to make that one bad click be so permanent - am I missing something? Thank you, Mike Tutorial.plan

Duly noted and apologies - I got here by seeing an earlier post and didn't even notice what section it was in. I'll pay attention in the future.

Thanks much Eric. Duly noted. Immediately after I posted, I rebooted the computer and got the plan file to open. Before you had a chance to post the reply, I went into the drawing, selected the wall in question, edited the length directly again, but this time I used the tool that appeared in the edit window that allows you to choose whether to change the Left, Right or Both ends. I used the Right end button and it moved the adjacent wall just west (upwards in the drawing), giving the same result as when you moved that wall. Interesting! I haven't figured out yet why not every wall has those buttons available! Thanks for the video also. Yes, I had read a little about that subject and had chosen to use Main Layer Outside for my purposes. Thanks for that. I spent a lot of time trying to answer that question. Another good suggestion, and thanks for noticing the flaw. Funny thing is, I had read about that and so created two new Wall Types: Historic 1910 Exterior and Historic 1910 Interior. I then set them as the default and began drawing walls - only it didn't "take" for some reason! After you pointed it out, I first checked the Defaults (Default Settings, Exterior/Interior Wall Defaults) and they were still set to my custom wall types. Then I examined the walls in the plan and sure enough, they were all Siding 6 - not what I wanted. I have changed them all now, but I can't see why the program drew them that way. I just now drew an interior wall and it followed the default setting (my new custom interior wall type). I'll try to remember to watch out when I begin to draw next time. Many thanks, Mike

Thanks for all that Eric. If you wanted to turn the auto rebuilding back on you would then use the Layer Display Options dialog? Good advice. I did read about that and have visited the dialog box a number of times to get familiar. Good to know! I hadn't read that. I wanted to use Exterior Auto Dimensions to make it easier to see that I had the beginning footprint right. And per your advice they are easy enough to delete, right? ANd I think maybe it's good that I did or I might not have noticed the program changing other walls. What am I doing to cause a wall on the east face of the house to change length when all I did was change a length of wall on the west face? I have attached the plan. The top of the drawing is the west face. Note that at the SE corner there is a wall section facing east that measures 7'-11" and due west of that there is a wall measuring 6' and some inches (*explanation below). So if I adjust the length of the 6' and some inches wall, the program changes the length of the 7'-11" wall. What is my error? How can I lock the 7'-11" wall so the program can't automatically adjust it? *Explanation of why I said "6' and some inches" instead of a precise value: In order to attach a copy of my plan file for you to see, I closed the file like a good boy, then opened the containing folder and drug a copy to this web page. Then I tried to reopen the file to get the exact length of that wall, and get an error stating: "The file appears to be locked. This could be the result of another user or program using the file. This may also result from having insufficient security privileges to access this file". Now I can't open the file! Hopefully you can! BTW I did notice when I opened the program that I had some kind of privilege problem, no idea why. It asked me if I want to associate plan, library and etc. files with the program, I said yes, it came back with a privilege error. I let it go for then. One problem at a time... Thank you, Mike 300 Franklin.plan

I'm working my way through the House Design Tutorial and like DaveJo, once I turned on Automatic Interior Dimensions I can't turn them off. After enough reading, I did go to the Layer Display Options dialog - but there's a problem: turning off Dimensions, Automatic turns off the Automatic Exterior Dimensions simultaneously! So it would appear that once you have clicked the Auto Interior Dimensions button you can't make them go away without also turning off Auto Exterior Dimensions or manually deleting them one by one. Is this true? Also, Solver Eric you state that you don't use Auto Dimensions because they just cause a mess. Is that because it will also cause the drawing to "auto-adjust" a wall other than the one you are working on? I'm guessing it's some other function in the software that causes it. Besides working through the House Design Tutorial I'm also trying to create a floor plan of an existing 130 year old house with a complex footprint. I started by freehanding a reasonably close outline of the house, then began to adjust walls to their true measurements by editing dimensions. I noticed that when I adjust a wall length on the west end of the house, Home Designer will automatically adjust a wall on the east end to compensate. Does anyone know how I can lock the length of a wall once I'm satisfied with it? P.S. I realize the second question is a different topic. I only asked because of what Eric said. If I should take it to a new thread just say so. Thank you, Mike

Ha! He's a comic in his own mind... I will still pay attention to you And no, I took no inference of you soliciting at all. I took it as what it was: an earnest offering of help. Thank you! Mike

Thank you gentlemen! I checked them both out. The archCalc is a good basic construction calculator for a good price; I almost bought it, thinking my needs while drafting with Home Designer will be simple. But of course I'm so new at Home Designer that I don't have any accurate guess as to what I really will need. Then after reading through Calculated Industries (Const. Master) website I decided to spend the extra $20. I absolutely love my Construction Master Pro handheld and the desktop version is an exact duplicate, so the familiar interface will pay off. It may even make me better at using the handheld since I sometimes go long stretches not needing it. The user reviews pushed me over the top. One guy said: "Once you get the hang of using the ten key pad with your right hand and the keyboard with your left (to select feet, inches or other keys) it might be even easier to use than the actual calculator we carry on the job site." Very interesting! And as a nice bonus, the app comes with a built-in "always on top" capability! Treenet I hope you see this! Please don't go to the trouble on my account. I'm pretty good at using Windows Alt-Tab to switch between apps anyway, to the point where I'm not entirely sure having the calculator taking up desktop will be a plus for me. But it's sure nice to have the option! Thank you both for providing two price options. I hope others will find this useful. My best to you all, Mike

Treenet, yes I did note that you mentioned a calculator. Actually the fact that your script could potentially be used for any Windows app got my attention even more! I do feel that could be useful to me, but with your language about "if enough interest is there" made me want to respect your time (I wake every morning with a deficit). Being respectful of your time, I haven't yet actually established that I would regularly use your tool so I didn't ask. If it isn't a great deal of trouble I would love to have it - for uses I haven't even thought of yet. But I have no need for the Windows calculator, it's a construction calculator or nothing. I own a handheld (Construction Master) but I usually keep it in the truck. Moving it back and forth will be a hassle, but better than no calculator! I have to say I'm a little worried now that I'm going to invest the time for a large learning curve and find some other major shortcomings in the software. To discover two items missing that I would have thought would be no-brainers is worrisome. Didn't they think that a substantial user base would be people making drawings of existing structures? Not having the calculator might be ok if you are drawing a building from concept because Home Designer does the math for you, but any time you are working with an existing structure it's essential that you check the drawing against reality and a calculator is crucial. That said, I'm sure there is a lot I don't yet know about how to add dimensions to plans. My only real experience is hand drafting on paper, where it's common to "stack" dimensions along a wall: closest are the distances from break to break such as corner to first window, window to window, etc. down the wall, and then another layer of larger dimensions would be stacked on top such as corner to an offset, offset to next corner, and finally an overall corner to corner dimension. The little bit of playing I have done with the program tells me I need to double check the math to make sure I didn't adjust one dimension at the expense of another. I have done that already, probably because I'm new and didn't understand the proper way to make an adjustment when the program drew something other than what I expected. Thank you! I will check back here. Mike

I found time to play just a bit with adding text. It's easy enough and I thank you all for pointing me in the right direction - as well as the other useful info. I am surprised that a program as well conceived and refined over time as HD Pro 2015 doesn't have a simple Notepad feature. Applying our notes to the drawing itself seems like a clunky way to keep notes. To me the elegant solution would be to simply have a Notepad that would save with the plan file but not be a part of the actual plan. That way a user could save extensive notes about a project that he likely wouldn't want to share with a customer and certainly wouldn't want to take up plan area with. I will mark this as solved and go peruse the website for a place to add this as a development suggestion. I hope you same gentlemen will watch for my next question about another basic functionality I haven't found: a construction calculator! I will place that question in a new thread. Thanks again! Mike

Thank you all! I only had enough time to go check the link provided by DJP and all that it opened up for me. I have a beginning of a signature, and have added some initial profile info. I guess we'll see if the signature works when I submit this post! A bit later today I will steal a little more time to play with the suggestions for adding text and I will report back. Treenet, that's an interesting little script you wrote! I won't ask you to go to the work yet until I experiment with adding text first. Thank you! Mike

Hello, I am brand new to HD Pro 2015 (or any Chief Architect product). Just started my first plan and saw a need to make notes to myself. Is there any function in HD Pro 2015 for this? My notes could get pretty wordy. Thank you, Mike P.S. How do I add a signature? I have the "Enable signature" checked, but darned if I can see where to create one!