Angie15

Members
  • Posts

    41
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Angie15

  1. When is HD Pro going to start rendering shiny glass correctly in PBR? Im tired of using glass textures from 2012.

    (and while youre at it, change all the PBR  and camera settings back to 2021. PBR is abysmal in 2022 & 2023. Standard view is a nightmare its so hazy, cant see a thing!!

    When is HD Pro going to be able to recess hinged doors to a specified depth within the wall (Including frame & jamb)?

    When is HD Pro going to change the window sill settings so that that they dont Z-fight with the wall below if you recess them? 

    When Is HD Pro going to stop the unnecessary snapping of walls, and the obession that the software has to determine how best they should intersect, and where they SHOULD be. Block cavity walls in reality, do indeed join stud walls, yet basic things like that are beyond this softwares capability. 

  2. Dont bother. 

    The rendering has gone backwards. I never thought Chief could get worse with the renders, but they have. They have apparently increased performance in 2022/2023 but any file size over 80MB still lags and struggles, which is rediculouly stupid compared to other design software. (like one decent plant in sketch-up is 30MB!)

    The standard camera views have changed and are now hazy compared to 2021 and PBR is worse, like a grey filter over your lenz. Deep shiney black is also impossible.

    The backdrop totally changes your interior to alien colours and will take you hours to get right, only to give up and eventually go with no backdrop. The actual quality of the exported pictures is also dismal.

    Attic walls, or anthing, any item, thats exposed to the exerior lights up luminencent like a christmas tree including the auto built walls in PBR. It will look fine in Standard view and then suddenly its bright blue or green in PBR and takes hours to sort out because changes in PBR are so slow!

    They still dont have the option to recress doors. 

    They still cant make their window sills sit above the wall and theres Z-fighting

     

     

     

     

    PBR 2021.jpg

    PBR 2023.jpg

    standard 2021.jpg

    standard 2023.jpg

  3. On 6/23/2020 at 5:03 AM, LawB10 said:

    You do realize the Original post is 2 years old, If you would have followed the instructions solver gave in 2018, you would know

    that Suite can do what you wanted it to do, which is very easy to do in Suite.

     

    Yes I do realize that, and do you know what else, it doesn't work when your walls are 350mm plus thick, it leaves feckin holes everywhere that you have to fill with soffits and wedges and soffits and more soffits and celings and more soffits only to realize you cant use soffits because they don't span ceilings and walls and then have to change to shapes which keep snapping by default to the to the terrain!

    • Upvote 1
  4. On 4/23/2018 at 4:37 PM, KirkClemons said:

    DPI is only important when printing. But, you will never see a difference when viewing the image on a screen because the screen will only show you what it is physically capable of showing.

     

    So the image's pixel dimensions are what is important for viewing on a screen. So, to solve your problems we need to figure out why the program is not accepting any values above a certain amount.

     

    I'll do a little research to see if there is a way for me to reproduce this behavior.

    In two fecking years nothing has changed. The software still does not use my GPU, yet it takes me 45seconds to make a change in PRB  

  5. Hi There. The centering tool uses a point of reference to "center" your object. If you click on the door ( as you have done) and center it to the middle of the room (there will be a horizontal line indicating this). If you then click on the window and center it using the same mid-room line it will center over the same door as you are choosing the same room mid-line as the door. There are several "snap" lines you can use to center objects, ie walls, other windows, rooms, roof etc, but they are usually perpendicular. You cant use the center tool to "center" sidelights next to a door because there is no center reference point. 

    • Upvote 1
  6. On 4/19/2019 at 12:58 AM, Dominic900 said:

    Hi Angie15,

     

    Your rendering looks pretty good on my end. I am sorry that you are not happy with how things are not turning out with PBR rendering. I have added some pictures or renderings to help you out. Its a doctor office I am working on to get a feel for the software. Anyway if your not happy how things turned out you might give support a call or send them an email and ask why you are having these issues with rendering. Some on this forum are getting great results with PBR. I hope that things will work out for you.

     

    Best,

    office1lighta.jpg

    office1lightb.jpg

     

    Thank you Dominic, but that doesn't help me. To be honest, all the PBR renderings I've seen so far on this forum are actually pretty bad, I'm really struggling to understand how you could say they are great. They are all extremely dark and hazy.

    How do I make a room bright and crisp, where the white walls and ceiling are actually white, not grey, or a weird alien shade of green or blue because of the backdrop?

    Why is the software not using my interior light settings despite me setting it to such? Why does it make no difference when you set a light to 10 lumens or 5 billion lumens? 

    Why when you use floor to ceiling windows or sliding doors, does the backdrop make my shiny steel blue and green, despite using a terrain? (this one REALLY irritates me!)

    Its terrible and very poor attempt by CA and I have no idea what they were thinking but whoever was in charge of the production should be sacked. Its not a PBR, its a half-arsed lame attempt to keep up with the likes of sketchup and v-ray and they failed dismally. 

    pic 1 - Same plan in standard view

    pic 2 - Same plan in PBR (I want it brighter, whiter, and the blue wall gone. I cant for the life of me figure out why CA thought it was a good idea to reflect the backdrop!! wtf!)

    pic 3 - a technical issue I keep having, where everything goes black and I have to exit the software, restart my computer and reload the plan. 

     

    kitchen 2.jpg

    kitchen 1.jpg

    pbr.jpg

    • Upvote 1
  7. On 4/6/2019 at 4:57 AM, xJonQx said:

    I've gotten some great renders with PBR in 2020, so I documented the various default settings I changed to achieve my results. Hopefully one of these settings may help you.

     

    I suspect that lowering the Sun Intensity may address your issue. I had to lower mine to 100 lux to get a good interior/exterior light balance.

     

    Please see this post for details:

     

    https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/5020-physics-based-rendering-what-am-i-doing-wrong/?do=findComment&comment=26552

     

    Let us know if that helped.

     

    Hi JonQ

    Thank you for your reply. 

    I have finally been able to get a decent rendering but its still not good enough for my liking 

    Reducing the sunlight intensity only solves the problem in a room with windows. It makes F-all difference in a with no windows. How can it be a true physical based rendering when it doesn't take into account the actual light settings in the room?  (even when its set to "actual" light settings and not automatic)  

     

     

     

     

    Paul 1.jpg

    • Like 1
  8. 2 minutes ago, Dominic900 said:

    Hi Angie,

     

    Now I don't have home designer pro 2020 but the same thing happens when I import a drawing file from past versions into 2020 of architectural 2020 (which I have ) the rooms and lighting are dark. But when it is a new drawing no issues. When it imports the lighting data something goes wrong. But what you might want to do is contact support and send them your file. 

     

    Please update us when you find out what could be the problem. Thanks. 

     

     

    Hi Dominic,

    Thank you for your reply. I did think that might be an issue so I started a new default plan. The pictures above are from a new drawing, not an import. 

     

  9. I upgraded to Pro 2020 from 2019 and I'm asking for help with the new PBR rendering in HD Pro 2020.

     

    I’ve searched PRB on Chieftalk, watched the tutorials, and read the reference manual. I’ve been playing around with sun intensity, angles, lighting and materials etc and it seems to make no difference. It’s still dark. In the tutorial videos, there is very little light difference between the standard render and the PBR, only a few teaks are needed. In mine, its like night and day.

     

    In this room (pic 1) I have 8x10000 lumen lights and 2 x 5000 lumen lights. Sunlight is default. In a realistic scenario this room would be blinding (A stadium light is 60000 lumens)

    In pic 2 there is 4x10000 and 2x5000 (I removed 4 lights)

    In pic 3 there are 2x5000 lumens (removed all the ceiling lights)

    There seems to be very little difference. It’s still dark. The white walls, ceiling and cabinet are not white either.

     

    I have the most recent graphics driver. Is there a setting somewhere that I’m missing or is this a technical problem that I should report?

    pic 1.jpg

    pic 2.jpg

    pic 3.jpg

  10. Thank you David. I am fully aware that upgrading to Pro wont solve all my problems, I was just hoping that throwing $400 at it might solve THIS one. I'm quite happy to have to do a few tweaks to get it right, but at the moment its proving next to impossible with HD suite. In case you haven't noticed, 90% of new houses in Ireland are a storey+half with these type of dormer windows. I've done hundreds of them and there's always an issue and it takes me hours to get right. I was hoping and half expecting HD Pro to be able to do it a little easier. That's all. 

    • Upvote 1
  11. 3 minutes ago, DavidJPotter said:

    Thank you for the angry response, resorting to name calling. I hope it makes you feel better to lash out at me. The answer to your question is "Yes" it can be done without resorting to workarounds. Angry persons generally are not happy or very competent, a lighter, happier attitude might help in the direction of any attained competence you may, in the future obtain. I do wish you well in any case.

     

    DJP

    I'm not angry, I simply don't appreciate you implying I'm lazy, incompetent or stupid. You could've simply informed me that these dormer windows are easily built in Pro using the auto dormer tool etc but instead you chose to blow wind up your own arse and refer me to the manual. (which I've read, and I've been struggling with this for days and this forum was a last resort for help). I know for a fact that they cant be built using the auto dormer tool in HD suite so I was asking if It was possible in Pro. 

    "direction of any attained competence you may, in the future obtain". That doesn't even make sense.

  12. 1 hour ago, DavidJPotter said:

    I have Chief Architect Premier versions 7-20, Home Designer Pro, Architectural, Suite, Essentials and Interior versions since about Version 6 and whether or not you directed your question to me or not, Since 1995 when I started the answer was yes back in 1995 and is still "yes" now. Learning to obtain a result with this software or any software really is a developed skill not luck or random success.

     

    DJP

    No DavidJPotter, the question was not addressed to you, but  I'll rephrase the question an put it in dickhead language that you'll understand. Is it possible in HD Pro to build a dormer window as shown above, using the auto dormer tool without manually using soffits and inverted wedges and so that it looks the same externally and internally simultaneously?

     

    • Upvote 1
  13. Its not only the 360 that I have a problem with. Its the export quality/resolution in general. 

    For example, I originally had HDS 2009 which exported at 96 dpi, then I upgraded to HDS 2018 and on the exact same computer, with the exact same plan only exported at 72 dpi. I since have a new PC and still cannot achieve anything more than 72 dpi. I have searched this forum and been unable to find any way of improving it. I have even connected my PC to the HD 48" TV/monitor and still only get 72dpi.  The only way I can get satisfactory results is if I print image to PDF at maximum (4000 dpi) then import to Photoshop  (which still only sees it as about 108dpi), then sharpen the image.  I understand that HDS is only $100 but Im very reluctant to pay for for HDS Pro or Premier given the above. If I cannot export images at least 300 dpi now, which in my opinion is the industry minimum, then why should I upgrade? I mean, sketch-up is free and does better images??

  14. No, I've left the dialog boxes as they are. 

    I'm just not happy with the overall quality, the sharpness in particular. Its fuzzy and blurry and the 360 image doesn't look the same as the 3D view on my screen. 

  15. On 4/16/2018 at 5:35 PM, KirkClemons said:

    I'm not able to reproduce this behavior. Just type in 8192 in the width field and press the Tab key to let it update the height. Then click OK.

    export-options.jpg

    Thanks, I managed to do it at 8192. When I entered like 6000 it simply defaulted back to 4096. I also tried at 12288, but that also reset back to 4096. It does look slightly better, but I'm still not 100% happy. Thank you for your help :)

  16. 8 minutes ago, KirkClemons said:

    The first change I would recommend is bumping the image size from 4K to 8K.

    Meaning, your current export was exported at 4096x2048 pixels. Bump this up to 8192x4096 pixels and see how that looks to you.

     

    Otherwise, it looks fine, I'm not seeing any obvious issues.

     

    Thank you Kirk, but I am unable to export higher than that.

    When I chose anything higher it automatically bumps me back to down to 4096x2048. How do I get higher?