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1 - cannot move posts unless they were inserted as items - if part of a railing wall they get equally spaced based on max post spacing You can make railing wall without posts and first add in Columns from the library to fit and locate as you like then draw railing wall without posts. 2 - not sure what you mean - have plan view w/ roof planes visible? 3 - how did you create that railing wall with posts? If railing wall then go to wall edit dialogue and go to post part and select post to ceiling since you do not have flat ceiling under roof for a beam - Beams in HD tend to be horizontal only 4- see #3.

or you can change height in each room by opening room edit dialogue

Go to Default Setting (The little Wrench button) > Floors & Rooms > Floor Levels> 1st Floor > Change Relative Height to your new wall height. OMG I've learned enough now to answer a question!!

That works. Thank you!

Try editing that page number on Page 0 of the layout sheet. That is the master sheet; whatever is on that page, will be on all pages.

For each one of my Plans, I sent to Layout, and just used the default Layout page. I manually edited all the title block information on each Layout, instead of making a template. Now I know better. Problem is that all my Layout have sheet "A-1" in the lower right corner, and I am unable to edit that box. All the others I can edit, but not the A-1. I've got a ton of typed information on the Layout pages, so I don't want to lose that info if I re-send a Plan to Layout. I couldn't find anything in the Reference Manual, or searching the forum. Any help will be appreciated.

I initially thought I'd want the walls on both levels to be 10 ft, but due to the new design of roof and vaulted ceilings, I no longer need the walls to be any higher than a standard 8 ft on main floor. Would like to also change lower floor to 9 ft. How can I do that without starting from scratch again? Am using Home Designer Architectural 2023.

Hello, I have a few questions as they relate to the deck and hoping someone can assist me to figure out how to fix it. Am using Home Designer Architectural 2023. 1) Posts are in the middle of stairs, how do I move them so they are not in the middle of the stairs? 2) Would like roof to follow the deck size of deck along front of the house, how can I do that? 3) Beam on right side of house is not touching roof, is there a way to fix that side? 4) How do I get posts to reach the roof from Beam? MyRoofElevationOption_deck_1.pdf

I am attempting to recreate an as-built model of our existing house. First attempts with my original model had many problems with the roof and the walls. I think I sorted most of that out thanks to all the resources online. To simplify things, I created a second iteration of the model that just included the exterior wall and features. Enough to allow me to work on the roof. After a few trials my process was as follows: Install an invisible wall to complete the line across the plane where the front door is located. This is where the front Full Gable wall is located on the real house. The rear wall of the house and invisible rear wall for the back patio form the rear Full Gable Wall. All interior space in front of front Full Gable Wall I unchecked “Roof Over This Room”. This allowed me to view the Gable roof by itself and it worked as expected. I then check “Roof Over This Room” for the front porch and front room which enables the Dutch Gable to be built over the porch. It’s basically correct with the Full Gable Wall being the front of the porch. The room inside the single-door garage bay is still unchecked for “Roof Over This Room.” The Dutch Gable forms mostly as expected. It does create a hip on the centerline side of the house. I have looked at all the wall settings and can find no reason for that. I conclude it’s an anomaly of the one “room” in the center behind the single-car garage door that is confusing the program. I then checked “Roof Over This Room” for the double car garage. The Dutch Gable was fine over the garage. But this is where the challenge begins. Looking at a photograph of the existing property, it appears that most of the house is under a standard gable roof. The front has two Dutch Gables - one on each side - with what could be described as a shed roof between the two Dutch Gables extending from the edge of the roof upwards to meet the front Full Gable Wall. At this point I found the main gable interesting. The left side generates a hip instead of coming to the front Full Gable Wall. The right side comes to the Full Gable Wall, but the Ridgeline is formed incorrectly. The solution I would envision would have the rear gable room with a ridge roughly centered on the single-car garage door. The two dutch gables would stretch back to the main gable wall connected by a shed roof in the center. This step gets it partially right. I need the Full Gable Wall seen on the right, but with a slope of the hip on the left extending down to the top of the exterior wall. I put in two full gable walls approximately where the dutch gable ridge lines are. This should be the width of the shed room when it intersects the front Full Gable Wall. I also put a High Shed/Gable Wall immediately in front of the Full Gable Wall I use for the main roof. The assumption being that you couldn’t use this setting as the Front Gable Wall for the main roof and simultaneously the high shed wall for the shed roof. With the gables in place for the shed roof, I check “Roof Over This Room” and Build the Roof a final time. And it’s almost a perfect match: The Dutch Gables are good, the main roof ridge line is right where it’s expected, but for some reason, the main roof ridge stops before reaching the gable wall and turns into a hip roof. The hip roof slope is correct when it reaches the top of the Dutch Gables, but above that elevation, the vertical Gabel wall should be encourntered Any assistance with how to get that final shed roof between the dutch gables is appreciated. I have included the model, some a developmental picture, and an actual arial picture of the poperty. Exterior_2026_02_25.plan

Did you figure this out? I'd love to know how as well

See if this Clerestory how-to article helps https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00492/building-a-clerestory-skillion-roof.html

Take your "as-built" plan and save it as your "remodel" plan. Then, do your remodeling - adding/removing walls etc.

Hoping that someone will be my HERO and help me with getting the roof I am trying to create to correctly render! Attached are 2 files: "Roof.plan" and "House Roof.png" Although I can get a shed roof to render correctly with just a rectangle structure, I cannot with the porch/double-roof config I am going for with this design. I am sure that it has something to do with how I created the combination of railing and exterior walls, but I was not sure another way to draw my intention. The PNG should describe exactly what I am looking for and has measurements but if you are willing to help and something is unclear, PLEASE ask! I will take typed instructions, someone editing the file for me, link to video instruction... ANYTHING. Tried working using ChatGPT, but it is not as good with Home Designer Suite as it is with some other things! Ha! Thanks [in advance] to my "Hero"... now, fingers crossed this post finds them! :-) -Robbie Roof.plan

I have a loose idea for a renovation. I've modelled my as-built house. It is full of artifacts of my amateur user status (small gaps in walls, random bits of railing around my staircase) but that's sort of in the noise that I don't need to fix at the moment. What I'd like to do is hide a handful of interior walls and doors, and put in new walls and doors. I was expecting to be able to assign some walls and doors to a layer (like "as-built remove") and add a layer with "renovation add" and sort of be able to switch between them. Does that functionality exist? Do I need to create a full copy of my layout? I was hoping to avoid that so that as I learn, and fix the random mistakes, I wouldn't have to track those changes across 2 different layouts. I come from SolidWorks product design, where I would switch between configurations of similar designs. I may be looking for a feature that isn't there. I don't want to derail this narrow topic too much, but if someone would like to clean this project up a bit, I am interested to know your rates. I'm looking for dozens of dollars not thousands. For thousands, I'll just keep it looking amateur. High on the list: roof planes are all manual, and funky. Can't get 2nd floor to snap to reference 1st floor. Random holes in walls, probably because I don't know how to build the walls/roof correctly? Using Win 11, Home Designer 2026. Link to a copy of my project file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1V_bf9ia4x7ozGTN-zPN5Oy2Trqqe5nKJ/view?usp=sharing

Draw the deck, go to the structure tab, and set floor height to a -6

Is there a simple way to raise or lower a deck? I need to drop the deck down approximately 7" below the door frame.

>Something has to give as that 7.25" versus 5.5" rafter difference has to be somewhere.. It's in the birdsmouth cut - it's deeper in the 2X8 vs the 2X6 and then the rafter tail is trimmed down to 2X6 size.

or make them all 2x6 and then add ceiling plan in vaulted room to bring ceiling lower than underside of rafters. This does not make sense - is this vaulted room outside Hip wall inline and same ceiling top plate height? Something has to be lower or higher, Not sure how you can have the same top plate height, ridge height, roof pitch, overhang, soffit face height, etc With different roof Rafter lumber sizes. Something has to give as that 7.25" versus 5.5" rafter difference has to be somewhere... PS most rafters are made from 2x10 in my area and supported in attic to keep free span to spec.

The only option to purchase now is Home Designer 2026. The other versions are now gone, and everything is rolled into Home Designer 2026

Find a new selection of cast iron cookware for your kitchen, storage, and cooking scenes. Download online from the 3D Library, or use the Library Browser search features to download it directly.

Open your stair specification drop box. Under the "section heights" area, check "top tread" only and set it to "lock top". Then you can adjust the materials, etc. as needed. You should update your signature with the program version and type so everyone knows what you're working with

Rafter depth changes at the walls of the foyer. That's the only area where the vaulted ceiling is. I thought of a solution... 1) Create the roof with 2X8s rafters over the entire side of the roof. 2) Go back and manually edit rafters that aren't in the foyer to be 2X6s. 3) Shorten 2X8 rafter so they won't stick through the facia. 4) Create 2X6 rafter tail in Sketchup and attach to the end of shortened 2X8s.

so the rafter depth changes in the middle of a room or at the walls? maybe post actual pictures of what you have.

might not be able to in the HD series. Unless try making a landing at the top the sane size as your top step and then the stairs can come off of it... might look right. HD just not setup to build the extra top tread when the top level will suffice... I hate to say it but might be easier in long run to change the way you build them and save some $ on the cost of that last tread

What's the better alternative then as an option? Is there one? How else does the software stay alive today. I commented here earlier - subscription gives security in use of the latest version for all - imo. It's all about cost to consumers it would seem - if you like using the software - use it.(buy it..) Its great software - but for me, I'm happy to work with HDPro2024. Home Designer has grown up it seems. Think about the features it has that one doesn't use. Think about the support, the library items available free, and/or for minimal purchase cost. It's a commercial decision buying software - it's a business/budgetary decision. Can you work without it? Happy modeling.