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What happened to the post about HD 2026 being subscription based? There were thousands of comments, all saying negative things, then it just disappeared. As a HD user since 2004, and a HD Pro user since 2019 (upgraded every year except 2024, because it didn’t offer any improvements), now on HD 2025, I will absolutely not be entering the Chief realm of subscription 2026. Interested to see if this post gets deleted too.

Also another tid bit of information. It seems as though the program is not building the ridge at the center of the building along the 34' side (right side). The ridge is at 16' from the back. Should be at 17' if equal pitch which it is supposed to be.

It’s been done in Europe for hundreds of years, easily framed. It’s usually a stud wall on the interior. You don’t need a custom symbol from the premier line . This is how I do mine in Pro 25 but its been the same from Pro 21. In this image its a 350mm block/stone wall. Break the block wall at the width of your window. Change that wall to the same depth as your window. Draw a new stud/plasterboard on the interior of that and it will cut the block wall.

Hello @JodieCameron, It looks like to add a rotated version of this door to your catalog you will need to place the door freestanding (In the middle of your room), take a cross section/camera view, rotate the door so that it is now inverted, and with the door selected use the Add to Library button on the bottom toolbar. This will add the rotated cabinet door to your user catalog that you can then apply to your wall cabinets. I hope this helps!

Here is the actual truss layout of the house I am trying to draw.

Hello all, I have used this program a decent about and I am normally able to figure out how to work around some of the funky stuff the auto rebuild roofs feature does. I have pictures of what I am trying to fix, and I can upload the actual file as well. The thing is I know why (structurally) it is trying to generate it the way it does, but in the real world the small gable in question would just be an overframe. If anyone has any fixes (im sure they are out there) please let me know. Also this is home designer suite 2017 if that helps. roofissuefile.dxf

Thank you, I think it is coming along, but just so that I understand, you do think that this can be done with just practice and Auto Roofs? I certainly can manually tweak it, but can it be done without manual modification as my boss asked?

just keep playing. your issues are experience and knowing how wall height and location affect the roof. Also when you do manual roofs by say editing an auto one. Then you can go back and Re-build roof again using automatic roof. BUT check RETAIN MANUAL DRAWN ROOF PLANES as well as RETAIN EDITED AUTOMATIC ROOF PLANES . - Then it leaves those you edited alone and does not make new roof there just ties into them. You need to see what all those options do. Watch the HD Videos PLay and learn more All I and others could do is take your plan and tweak to give you the roof you want. - but you need to be able to do that. GO to the sample plans see what they have done. Good Luck.

Hi All, One of the bonus catalogue cabinet door panels called 'Surface' has a grove cut into the top to allow opening without hardware. I would like to know if there is a way to invert this door so they can be placed on upper cabinets and have the groove at the bottom. I have attached an image for visual reference. I am using 2025 Home Designer Pro. I have tried via the edit settings, individual cabinet section settings and also copied it to my user library to edit freely, but with no luck. Thanks all!! JC

Exactly. I'm a hobbyist and only use the program on personal projects and for friends. The legacy version that I purchased in 2021was working just fine for me. Then my computer crashed and I bought a new one. When I re-installed my legacy HomeDesignerPro, I lost probably 50% of the libraries I had purchased and all of the manufacturers catalogs...Kohler, Benjamin Moore, etc. There's no way I'm upgrading to a rental model for a hobby. And like bumblebeelyfe, I had committed a lot of time to mastering this program. WHAT A WASTE. Way to screw your customers! Reluctantly looking for new options now.

This is an improvement: I have some problems with that roof plane, but at least it is working. Thanks. Any idea how to fix it?

First of all, Thank you so much for getting back to me. I am really stressed about getting this done in time. My boss has instructed me not to manually tweak the roof panes. I did that on my prior one, and while I got the roof to match, some of the dimensions my boss gave me were off. This time he said I need to redo it, without manually changing the roof, in case the dimensions need to be updated again. If that happens, we will be able to automatically change it, without having to change the manual roofs. I tried this with my previous model, and it worked, but it involved turning off Auto Roofs and then creating the second floor. After doing that, I tried turning Auto Roofs back on, and it created gaps in the roof, and changed the roof planes. Is there a check box or something to get rid of the roof on the second floor when creating it? With what I am doing, I do not have a complete wall to align it with. Do I have to create it, and then make it invisible so that I can use it with the gable line tool? Also, do I use the gable line tool before turning on roofs, meaning; I should delete all roof planes, add the gable line, and then rebuild it with auto roofs?This shows the weird offset roof better. Somehow I have to do this with Auto Roofs only.

you could make that house in HD pro where you can manual tweak roof planes. The 2 gable thing is simple using the GABLE line before making roof. just make sure yo have a wall below for it to align with. Need to learn about no roof on second floor so first floor roof extends up and turns the second floor into the 1/2 floor which means the second floor is inside roof. YOu just need more practice. Start slow with working on one area at a time

My boss says I need to create this house with its double gable roof in Chief Architect. https://www.zillow.com/homedetails/110-Fox-Chase-Hendersonville-NC-28739/441854964_zpid/? While I have done it already, he now wants me to do it with only auto roofs. I have enclosed the double gable roof, my manual roof version, and my attempt at auto roofs. I have tried researching it, but I haven't came up with anything. Could you all show me how to do this?

Yeah I have 2025. Imagine paying for multiple versions, and then within less than 18 months you are 'legacy'. I'm not buying for one second that there are compatibility issues that cannot be resolved in catalog items like the upscale appliances for example. Very disappointed and feeling trapped. This product has a steep learning curve. I finally get to a point where I can limp along and now I'm hamstrung. I am furious. The subscription price is out of line. Time to learn Sketchup I guess.

Draw it in setchup, save as sketchup model, drag and drop the file into HD Pro. Rescale, change materials etc, then save to library. As an HD pro user (not premier) Your access to premier models is of course limited.

which software version are you using?

You need to hire an P.E. (engineer) licensed in your state who knows the building code. So someone local. I could figure it out being an engineer but the loads and materials and connections and etc. All come to play. IF actual pre-built trusses - you cn contact truss manufacturer as they tend to have engineers on staff to design the truss. PS that is not really a truss just a normal roof with rafters and collar ties near ridge and vaulted ceiling below. HEck this HD software does not even create collar ties and rafter vertical supports that ties into load bearing walls below.

i was hoping to find one here lol

Ask a licensed structural engineer. The geographic area is also critical for snow loading, if applicable

I have a question? i built a post frame building and raised my roof to allow a lift to be installed. I am curious on the trusses that i have built it is a 30x50 post frame building with trusses designed like my crude drawing attached that are 3ft on center. my question is what is my load rating for my trusses now that they are installed each? or is there even a way to know the load rating? the truss is constructed with a 186 inch top board with 2 155 inch supporting boards that are bolted across the center to allow for the extra 2 ft of height i needed. it is all 2x8 design and the boards the run across there are 2 of them they are also lag bolted together. Help if you can thank you

Did you try drawing it with the radius deck railing?

Hello, I am hitting a dead end with custom drawing some deck framing. I made a multi level deck drawing, with an offset curved end, which I ended up custom drawing joists and beams to make work. It looks right in framing view, but when planking is applied it still extends past as the rectangle I started with. I assume I need another step to unify the framing somehow. Are there more steps to get the planks to relate to the custom made framing as well? Thanks for any help, I've searched processes and videos and cant match this exact scenario. Thanks.

I saw that but for some reason the defaults for a basement floor are set with concrete, foam, and subfloor. I edited it in defaults and I think I figured it out now but still glitchy

There is no home designer 17. Home designer uses years, chief architect uses X(numbers)