jhawk635

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Posts posted by jhawk635

  1. go to the site and download the Kitchen accessories library, it has what you need to get it done

     

    thanks...that is what I finally downloaded.  I think that is where the crown trim came from.  I just doesn't allow me to put crown molding on it.  Unless I'm missing something?

  2. Unfortuanately mine doesn't have it in the library Interiors> Accessories> then no Kitchen Items.  I looked for a download but couldn't find one.  You did make me think harder and I found this under "crown trim".

     

    It doesn't let me add the crown molding but at least I'm starting to get the point accross.  I appreciate your help.

     

    post-834-0-55239200-1442005654_thumb.jpg

     

    ps...I'm sure it's just me, this is the first house I ever designed and first time to use this kind of s/w.  I just decided I didn't want to go back and forth with a designer when I had my own vision.

  3. The window cornice is another area that is giving me fits.  I'm trying to use the wall cabinet tool but cannot get the front shape correct or even close.  Am I missing something?​

     

    Thanks,

     

    JHawk

     

    post-834-0-19633700-1442002371_thumb.jpg

     

    post-834-0-60492500-1442002455_thumb.png

  4. What is the LawB10 method?

     

     

    Make the front cabinets 8 to 10" high adjust to the rear cabinets ie: cabinet height 10" floor to bottom 26".

    go to the library click millwork> balusters and newels.

     

     

    How does any of this relate to the island?

    The first two items is how I built it just as described.  It worked perfect except for the issue I described.

  5. Ok...it was a little tricky but not so hard...  I used LawB's method.  If you look closely you can see that the full size cabinets on the inner island no longer automatically come to a point so it leaves a gap.  Haven't figured out why since they did before I added the "outer" cabinets.

     

    post-834-0-44277100-1441995101_thumb.jpg

     

     

  6. Good morning!

     

    I'm trying to design my island similar to this picture and cannot figure out where to start.  I built the cabinets, etc. but can't figure out the other side where the seating is.  Like how to add the structure and legs.  Any help is greatly appreciated.

     

    post-834-0-97880800-1441979546_thumb.png

    post-834-0-84758000-1441979574_thumb.jpg

     

    Thanks,

     

    JHawk

  7. Scary....but I may consider that when I'm done.  I don't think I have anything actually attached to the roof or that would be affected.  It looks super complex because the house is so big and odd shaped with several ceiling heights.

  8. Ok...it seemed easy enough.  Then I found that some did not have the option and realized I had to go to the "floor below" or actually the foundation.  That was ok but if I align the walls I get the attached message wanting me to turn off the auto rebuild foundation.  I'm afraid that might cause me all kinds of issues?  Thoughts?

     

    post-834-0-07011400-1440720302_thumb.jpg

     

  9. That makes sense...how do I actually do that?  I figured I just needed to find the actual attic wall to start with but that's not quite so easy.  I went into the layer display settings thinking I could just turn off the normal walls and leave on the attic walls to fix it but that doesn't work. Any tips here are greatly appreciated.

     

    Hey Eric, yes it has grown.  At the rate we're going San Antonio to Austin will be one huge metroplex.  Traffic is murder on I-35.

  10. I am getting errors on quite a few walls that tells me I need to align the walls.  Most of them I can just hit the "align with wall above" and it fixes the error.  But on some of them it moves the wall enough that I don't want to move it. Oh, and this is a single story house.  Do I have to fix these errors or is it something I can ignore?  Any insight or thoughts on this is greatly appreciated. 

     

    Thanks,

     

    JHawk

  11. You do NOT need an Architect. Architects develop ideas for plans where a person just has some general idea of a project, an Architect can develop the idea and then turn it over to a draft-person. You have already done the "Architect" part yourself, I see little reason to pay big money for work you have already done. What you need is a drafts-person who can take your already created plan file and develop it into printed-scaled drawings for sharing with your Engineer (for the Engineering) and other Building Professionals who will assist you in building your plans.

     

    In Home Designer Pro you create a layout file for each laid-out printed page. You have one plan file and from that plan file you create multiple layout page files, one for each printed-scaled page.

    Mick or me can help you with that at prices well below what most Architect's charge.

     

    DJP

    Hi David,

     

    I'm just down the road just south of San Antonio.  This is great to hear as I am getting near that stage.  I've done a killer design (at least I think so...) and just need a little help with some minor cleanup and then figuring out how to get drawings made so I can start bidding out the foundation first and then the entire project.  This is my first time to ever use the program so it's been quite a challenge but fun and interesting.  Can I pm you?

     

    thanks,

     

    JHawk

  12. The described behavior appears to be an "order drawn" one.  If you use the earlier-mentioned technique to create a soffit out of a countertop AND THEN place the base cabinet with a sink, you won't get the hole in the "countertop soffit".

     

    I just tried a model with a simple test plan to observe this behavior.  If you already created the base cabinet and sink, you can temporarily move it out of position from under the countertop soffit, then force a redraw/recreation of the soffit at the sink location (you would do this by temporarily removing the portion of countertop soffit over the sink area and then putting it back - easier done than described).

     

    Alternatively, if you need a more permanent fix, you could break and remove those portions of the countertop soffit above the sink, and then use a regular soffit with the same crown molding applied.  I'm sure there will be exceptions to the rule where this won't be possible; for example if you're using the countertop soffit on a curved wall.

     

    Another kludge fix would be to co-locate a slab object in the countertop soffit at the hole - in effect, patching the hole.

     

    Yet another approach might be to create the soffit out of a slab, and then also apply a thin veneer countertop soffit at the exposed edges of the slab on which you want the crown molding applied.

     

    Hope this helps. :)

    It did work...this program is crazy, thank goodness for all your help! 

     

    JHawk

  13. instead of soffits for the Room Edge Drops  use a Slab or Custom Countertop and add the Crown Moulding to it , it wont be effected by the Half wall below

     

    this method here

    https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/137-tray-and-vaulted-ceilings-and-wall-affects/#entry7765

     

    Wow...nice trick.  I finally got back to my plans and this worked nicely.  But...with one exception.  I had to use the "custom countertop" method to get the crown molding to work correctly which was fine and easy everywhere until I added the soffit above a cabinet with a sink in it.  Both soffits above the sinks have a hole in them for the sink.  At first I couldn't figure out what was going on but then I realized it was just trying to create the hole for the sink even though it was a foot thick, drywall, on the ceiling.  Is there something else I can convert it to and still get the crown molding to work right?

     

    Many thanks for all your help!  As a first time designer and one time home builder this help has saved me!

     

    JHawk

  14. PS .    delete the glass shower walls you have where the wall is broken and instead use soffits made into glass panels sitting on top of your half wall, I don't use the glass showerwall often as it seems to do weird things , but you have several stacked up in that shower behind the 1/2 wall.  Also that 1/2 rail should be one wall with a door in it raised to threshold height for your Shower Tray.

     

    M.

    Thanks...I've been struggling with that area.  I will give it a try.  Crazy how many tricks there are to this program...

  15. If you know your computer specs put them in your Sig. happy to help if I can....

     

    Not sure about the 9' vs 10' thing , it shouldn't "need" to b 10' . they don't show on my comp. which made me think it was vid. card related , eg older Intel HD Graphics or something.

     

    M.

    I'm running an Intel HD Graphics 4000 on a brand new Dell Inspiron 3647 computer on Windows 10.  As soon as I change the ceiling height to 10' the problem goes away.  When I lower it back to 9' it reappears.  If I drag the wall over a little it moves the line I'm referring to.  It definitely gives the appearance of an issue because it even reshapes the line depending on where I drag the invisible wall to.  

     

    Oops...scratch that, I just realized that I'm not designing on my Desktop, I am actually doing it on my Surface Pro 3.

  16. Ok...I think I've figured out why it is giving me these lines.  I think there is some kind of an error because I am transitioning from a 10' ceiling to a 9' ceiling in this room (really more of a corridor).  When I change it to 10' the lines go away and everything seems to be right.  I'm wondering if I really just need to make it 10'?

  17. 2014 what?  please add that information in your Profile Signature  > UserName- above right side >my settings>signature   there are something like 30 versions of the SW supported here and is needed for many answers.

     

    I think Room Divider came in 2015 to replace the Invisible Wall and is really an Invisible wall that is 0" wide , but I am not sure if 2014 will accept 0"  but you can try these settings from 2016 and make a new walltype the same perhaps? (don't know what SW you have)

     

    attachicon.gifRoom Divider Defintion.JPG

     

     

    If it continues try new videocard drivers from the maker of the videocard , not the computer maker or Microsoft.

    Hey Kbird...thanks for all the tips.  I added my s/w to my signature and did a little checking into the invisible wall settings in my s/w.  It appears I cannot set my wall to 0" or anything real small.  I have been debating upgrading my software but am only designing one house to live in and doesn't seem worth the cost but if I keep on having issues I may be forced to.

     

    I'm not a big computer wizard so I'm going to have to figure out the video card thing.  Not something I've ever really played with.

  18. I think it is the edge of your invisible walls showing sometimes , trying changing the 4 1/2" invisible walls to a Room Divider instead.

     

    I don't see it either  (videocard issue?)  but your image seems in the same place as the edge of the invisible wall.

    M.

     

    I'm running 2014 so I'm not sure if that's why I can't find anything that says Room Divider?

  19. Still does not show for me.

     

    You do have a railing that is causing the wall problem between the master tub and shower. Pull the 3 walls back and you wil be able to see and delete the railin

     

     

    I think you might have me on the trail to fixing the master bath.  I made it a half wall and that helped it.  I still need to play with the shower glass.  I made it a second wall with a railing and it seems to be making the crown molding do weird stuff.