FlynDad

And here comes the challenging part for me. I am able to get rid of the casing around the individual window when going horizontally but not vertically. The back of the house has several of these "no casing vertically" banks of windows.

That helped a lot. Thank you. It was the copy/drag preventing me from applying the windows to a perpendicular wall. Will practice with the keystroke method. Shame about the inability to create Groups. It would help for banks of windows where you want casing around the bank and not the individual window.

Unfortunately, when going to select a different floor I lose the "copy" mode and it, indeed, did not allow me to copy perpendicular. Made MANY attempts. Went to every wall on that level of the house. and Yes, I look into the help manual and search (and watch) tutorial videos for at least several hours before posting anything here.

When attempting this it would ONLY allow the windows to be placed on a parallel wall, NOT a perpendicular wall. Also, going from floor to floor has been an issue. IS there a key to press or hold down to allow for perpendicular placement?

Feels like it wants to fight me every, step, of the way,.... >>heavy sigh<< Funny line between corner soffit and wall soffit, molding passing through other molding, molding not "cut" at correct angle, soffit being "forced" over drywall instead of on the wall framing.

Purpose: I have a group of windows that have been custom spaced with additional custom attributes. I would like to select the GROUP of windows and place the exact window in other parts of the home.

I there a way to group and un-group objects for the purpose of copy/paste or using the object dropper for duplicating attributes, or saving the grouped objects as a new item in the library? Thank you.

I appreciate the assistance sincerely and am still working on trying to get this "right". It IS however, an absurd way to go about what should be a relatively common occurrence for residential construction. I do not follow the logic of a myriad of acrobatics for what should be a simple task and do not understand why a solution has yet to be offered by the developers at Chief Architect. Why not simply create a Build Footing option? Place in plan and draw whatever wall you wish on it. You could THEN define what the wall is and if Foundation is designated, it fails to appear on the Framing perspective. If it is not defined as Foundation, and contains "framing", it would appear. Pretty straight forward. I have tried to contemplate what issues could arise from this and have yet to come up potential "problems" that could occur. Perhaps by tomorrow night I will have a basement, with footings, a poured slab inside the footings, and framed walls that appear for the rear, above grade, framed walls when trying to look at ALL of the framing involved in the project.

Fighting it all day. No solution other than THIS VIDEO I came across and seriously hope this isn't the solution. Apparently walk out basements with framed rear walls are some kind of rare anomaly and haven't been addressed?

Need someone smarter than I am to take a quick look at the front porch roof lines of this elevation and compare it to the plan drawings and tell me I'm not losing my mind. Porch roof and Main roof will NOT match to elevation IF certain plan dimensions are remotely correct. I am including a very short video describing the issue. Video HERE Thanks in advance to anyone up to the challenge.

My Framing does not appear for the foundation level walls in Framing Perspective view. I have ALL framing checked in display options. Two walls are poured (showing fine) and the rest were poured that I changed under "Wall Types" to Exterior 6-siding. I know this has to be a simple one, but was unable to find a direct answer in the Framing tutorials and videos. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

SOLUTION: Select the Rooms along the exterior wall in plan view by control clicking them. Control E to open Room Specification. Change ceiling height to desired level above floor. Create Roof Plane off new lower exterior wall exterior wall. Join edges of roof planes.

After watching videos and tutorials until 3:30am I am at a loss as to how to proceed. Looking at the posted images, I am needing the 2nd story exterior wall to be lower so I can create a shed roof that will join the larger roof plane. You can see I have attempted to lower the wall using an elevation view but when attempting to create a roof plane, the roof still sits on an invisible top plate. To make matters even more complicated, the majority of these 2nd story rooms in this area should have a vaulted ceiling that reaches to the back (near center) of the 2nd story. (You can see the back wall of these rooms in the images) My plan was to cut away the larger roof plane, lower the exterior wall, create a roof plane with a more shallow pitch, and then join the edges of two roof planes. Any suggestions on how to proceed? I tried to make the back wall a High Shed but that wasn't successful either. Any thoughts towards this is greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Okay. Thank you so very much for your assistance. I will attempt to add the front porch then add a railing wall for the post and beam. Draw a roof plane towards the house and give it a three degree pitch.

WOA! Wait,... did you just now do that, like since we started this conversation 13 MIN AGO?? That is amazing,... and depressing at the same time. I have been working on this single issue since 5am cst. You seem to have it nailed already and with extras to boot! I mean the returns are even in there,.. wow.

I believe I need this roof to cover the "covered Porch" alcove due to the 2nd floor room above it. It appears to me that the plane of the wall above the two square windows on either side of the entrance door is the same. Difficult to determine to my untrained eye. In other words: Is the wall above flush with the entrance door plane or the square windows wall plane?

Hmm,.. It appears your front wall is father than the 12' of the alcove width? My front wall is 8'-4 1/2" from the "main wall" plane.

Hmmm,... so create a room using Room Divider on the 2nd floor then Open Below for that room? I can give it a try, but was hoping the solution was a bit more direct than that. Assuming I have interpreted your response correctly of course.

So I decided to start from scratch, upgraded to Pro from Suite, and have been LOVING IT! Previous advice to purchase Pro for my current needs proved to be excellent advice. My issue is this: I have an "alcove" over 12' wide and two feet deep. I would like the roof to extend OVER this alcove but, when adjusting the min alcove size to over 12', the roof goes nuts. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you.

RESOLVED. ANSWER: In this particular case there was a checkbox (apparently is set to default with the option checked) for keeping terrain "flat". Don't recall exactly where it was and I am a bit too nervous to "click-around" the terrain options to find it.

Appears the file size is too large? I followed the video instructions to the letter. You can see three total zones. The bottom is set to -12". The middle (front door/1st level) is set to zero inches. The top zone is set to -120 (the height of my basement walls). This is the result I get. I attempted to change the values of the levels, but all attempts still result in the dirt "sticking" to the poured concrete walls, and the framed rear walkout walls. After many hours of video and searching the forums here, I was unable to find a solution. Any ideas?

Lowered the terrain around the house, but the "dirt" is still up the basement walls. I can not get the side poured concrete walls to expose, or the rear exterior walls to expose. Help?