DanWEC
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Posts posted by DanWEC
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12 minutes ago, solver said:
Floor framing is located on the floor below, so to see it, you need to use Reference Display.
Here I've changed the Reference Display Layer Set to show only floor joists, and left the default red line color.
The Open Below space has no floor joists, while the room to the right does.
Reference Display is handy for all types of things.
Thanks Eric, for the working drawings I was using the reference display as a workaround. However for the final layout drawing, in order to display them as a cohesive plan view, how can I change the reference layer line colour? Can't seem to find the option. Thanks again.
Edit- Found it, under The Reference floor button- define reference floor. Thanks!
Edit again... somehow I marked myself as the solution Author when it was you. Don't know how to change it but if you can, feel free!
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Hello, having a problem.
Working on a large full house file. In plan view, when I select "Framing- floor joists" on, it shows the joist layout for the floor above. For example if I have a ground level main floor in view, (Floor 2 because of basement below) it will only show the floor joists for the 2nd story (Floor 3), which would technically be in the ceiling for the main floor.
It makes it impossible to display the joist layout for the top floor while displaying it. Nothing shows up, it will only display ceiling joists and roof rafters.
How would I display the floor joists under the current floor platform in a layout drawing? Very strange.
Thank you.
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3 hours ago, AlpineGeoff said:
Answering this from a construction perspective: No it does not make sense to run rafter perpendicular to the existing. Running rafters this way, you will have to beef up the existing rafter to carry the load of the new perpendicular rafters, and also need to post under the new barge to carry the new rafters. You would also need a collar tie, and a structural engineer to figure this out. I would run rafters parallel and either have a different pitch on the side that bumps out 6', or run an eyebrow roof off the new main roof to cover the bump out.
Geoff, I'm a builder first, attempted Home Design Pro user second. I already use this program as a tool for renovation renderings, but I'm doing a bit of a pet project to figure if I can get good enough at this program to integrate into my business instead of outsourcing all drafting, but not too promising so far. I'll likely leave it to the pros after this. As for the framing, given that it's only a 6' bump out from the existing foundation it doesn't make sense to me to run 4 members parallel, approx 16' span, with a knee wall and collar ties, with when all they need to do is span 6' instead. The existing gable end rafter is already supported by the existing gable end wall, which I inspected and is framed appropriately. I will be leaving all the existing wall framing in place except for 2 passages w/lintels. I know where you're coming from, you probably assumed I was removing the support framing on the existing gable end wall which would leave a suspended rafter as the header for the perpendicular rafters, but the wall below it is staying. I see that my WIP framing image doesn't show the existing gable studs, they're only showing only on the opposite end as the addition.
My initial plan was parallel rafters, which would put most of the roof load on the front and rear walls, with 1/3rd on the sides transferring down through the knee wall, but in this config with 2 load bearing walls only 6' apart I feel like this makes more sense. I'd love to hear if you have more input though, always happy to hear opinions!
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Thanks Eric, I saw this solution mentioned before by you in the Chief Architect forum, but I couldn't find the baseline angle in HDP so I didn't think it was an option, found it! Thanks.
I set the pitch to zero, changed the baseline angle to what the actual roof pitch is (26.57* for 6 in 12), then rotated the plane 90*. Worked great, but with one small issue,
Any suggestions on rotating the rafters so that they're not vertical? If I click on one all I can seem to do is rotate them along the x axis. Angles are mostly shaded out if I try selecting the ends via an elevation view.
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Hello,
I'm trying to do permit drawings for an addition off the gable end of a basic 2 story wartime house. Just extending the house by 6 feet on one side, it also extends past the rear of the house, and wraps around the rear by a few feet, so there will be a second roof plane on the rear of the house. The problem is it's sensible from a construction standpoint to run the joists and roof rafters perpendicular to the existing house, and while I can change the joist directions without a problem as shown I can't get roof rafters to run perpendicular to the slope.
The attached picture, (Showing the rear of the house with the addition roof plane required) shows the rafters on the front plane populated (just by stretching the current front roof plane over the addition) but they need to change direction 90* just for the 6 foot addition section to match the joists below). The rear roof plane is blank, not sure how to proceed. Will I have to draw them all manually?
(Ignore what looks like the second floor joists on the addition pocketting into the existing house, that just happened when I was playing with the roof and having it generate framing, it's now deleted, they hang off the outside of the existing rim joist)
Thanks very much for any help!
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I'm replicating the existing house for the plans. There is definitely a 2x6 rim joist at the top of the second floor, which would be the attic platform, which has 2x6 ceiling joists. It's alright, I've simply drawn it in and it's working fine. Thank you for the help.
I do have one more question, this is strange to me.... For some reason, selecting the Framing, Floor Joists layer, will show the joists, but for the floor above- as in the joists in the ceiling of the selected floor. I would think that would be the ceiling joists layer? I genuinely don't remember running into this before, and I've done plenty of framing diagrams. Any idea what could be causing it?
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Thanks Eric, I'll try that. I just raised the roof structure under the birdmouth selection menu by doing a +5" instead of a - . Solved half the problem. Many ways to skin a cat! Yours might work better.
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Hello all,
Trying to use Home Designer Pro 2021 to do detail sections for permit submissions for the first time. I've used it for several years for conceptual design, site layout, floorplans and elevations, but never details, I've found it quicker to use generic detail graphics and mark them up. I figure might as well try and do it, will see if I can get more productive at it- Or is this a point of diminishing returns on HDP?
I'm doing a full height extension off the gable end of a wartime house. And I'm just drawing up the existing structure into HDP.
I'm having trouble transposing the attached roof framing detail. It's 2x6 joists with no rim, just a cont. 2x4 plate on top which the rafters birdmouth onto.
Original detail attached, and a screenshot of how my framing so far is in HDP. The rest of the structure is fine, but roofing isn't going well. The issue is when I try to build the roof framing the rafters bear on the top plate below the ceiling joists. So my question is twofold:
- Best way to insert the plate above the joists, just draw it in using build framing?
- How to best make the rafters bear and birdmouth onto that plate.
Thanks much,
Dan
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Thanks for the reply, I'll look into that one. I've seen the jumble from the auto interior dimension. I'm getting around this so far by just doing an Interior Dimension, then manually moving the label outside the room.
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Thanks for the reply.
Nothing I've found or tried so far has solved the issue, and I can't believe it should be a difficult one.
I've gotten this far (see attached) by using the both surfaces for interior walls checkbox, and I'm also able to manually dimension the exterior walls properly by changing the Exterior Wall Defaults to Resize About Inner Surface, but from the correct surface on the interior walls, the auto dimension lines still go to the outside of the exterior wall, adding the wall thickness, which doesn't help at all.
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Hi, first time post here.
This may seem like a silly question, but I do 99% interior work, and when I start duplicating a floor plan into the software, (Home designer pro 2021) I use interior measurements.
How do I select the interior surfaces to be the selected natively? Both with the auto dimension lines, and also the function where you click on a wall to make it active, then select the perpendicular wall auto dimension label, and change it to say 6', I want that 6' to be the immediate interior dimension without having to compensate and adjust for the wall thickness.
Pic attached.... would rather these all be interior surface dimensions.
Thanks much friends!
Phantom terrain (or something) lines in Layout that won't go away....
in Q&A
Posted
Hello. I'm having a very strange problem with 2 extra lines lines appearing parallel to the terrain perimeter area when I send an elevation to layout. Deselcting or chainging the height of the terrain perim has no effect on the lines or their position.
Any elevation for this plan, EXCEPT for one that's taken from inside the building envelope, in the case of a section.
They're 2 dark horizontal lines that go along the grade area in the layout page. No matter what I deselect in the plan they show up in the layout. I even tried deselecting everything in the elevation view down to a blank page, and there with still a rough image and these 2 lines remaining in layout.
Pics attached show the layout, then the actual elevation. Elevation doesn't have these lines.
Any ideas?
Thank you.