Framing starting stud question


mattsmith321
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I am trying to understand the framing view of the following floor plan.

 

In the floor plan below, I am pretty tight on space to try to squeeze the light switch between the bath/shower space and the door. It will be a new interior wall and I'm wanting to see if I will have enough of a run between the door studs and the pony wall partition block stud.

 

Home_Designer_Pro_2021-2021-12-19-FajP.thumb.png.0f9ce695c4ef26b69eab4d40cfad6bd4.png

 

When I switch cross section / elevation view and look from the bedroom into the bathroom at the framing, I don't understand why the first stud noted by the red arrow isn't the stud that then starts the 16" OC spacing. Is there something around the door or the partition blocks that is taking precedence? Is there a way to force HD Pro to start there?

Home_Designer_Pro_2021-2021-12-19-5Mif.thumb.png.8fa0e300c913b56dda2e1764f7aa10d9.png

 

This is the first time I've been down to the frame view. I was mapping it out in a spreadsheet to see how things would line up. Surprisingly I managed to map it out fairly well but there are still some discrepancies that I need to work out.

 chrome-2021-12-19-c2Kt.thumb.png.85b3f0abad9e46afc8e23f5705a0b534.png

 

Anyway, if someone could shed some light on why that first stud isn't the start, or why I'm wrong for assuming it should be, I would appreciate it.

 

Thanks,

Matt

 

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9 minutes ago, solver said:

Your signature says you are using Architectural 2021. Have you upgraded?

 

Yes, I have upgraded since my last post. I am using HD Pro now. Signature is updated.

 

I think I upgraded specifically because I needed some additional control of defining my walls since my original walls were interesting: shiplap + drywall. I had always hoped that I could get things in the right ballpark configuration and have enough leeway to make things work. Unfortunately I am finding that trying to squeeze the bathroom and walk-in closet in a 14'-8 1/2" width is a little more challenging than I expected. And I can't squeeze the closet down too much because there is a specific attic access ladder that I am trying to accommodate as well.

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Thanks, Eric. That's awesome! You did one of these videos for me several months ago. I forgot about how helpful they were.

 

I will have to play with this later this week. But it definitely looks like it will help. One thing I noticed that I don't have enabled is showing the framing in the floor plan layout view. I'll have to figure that out.

 

I agree that normally I wouldn't go to this level of detail in the program and I don't really want to. But then again, I don't want to make the assumption that everything will fit either. And as someone that isn't an experienced builder, I don't want to screw it up and build it wrong initially.

 

Follow-up question: Does the forum tolerate "What do you think of this layout?" posts? I've got quite a few things I need to work through and as much thought as I put into them, I still would like a sounding board to validate a few things. But of course, I know that most of the answers will be "It depends" and "Yes, you could do that" and probably a lot of "Why on earth would you do that?"

 

Thanks!

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi Eric,

 

Following back up on this post finally. I was able to use your directions and move my framing reference to get the framing not be centered. A couple of follow up items / questions in case anyone else runs across this thread:

  1. My default floor plan layout renders with the solid walls. In your video, you have a rendering that shows the studs in the floor plan layout. I tried to figure out how to get that same view on my end but no luck. What's the secret?
  2. While it was cool that I could adjust the framing, I had to be careful about how much I did lest I turn off the auto-framing. I managed to turn off auto-framing by manually moving a stud and then even when I moved my partition wall or doorway the changes did not reflect back in the wall framing elevation view. If I just added the framing reference then auto-frame still appeared to work.
  3. One note about the framing reference. In your video you set a CAD line 3/4" off the wall and then snapped framing reference to it. I did the same thing but then noticed that the 2nd stud edge was 16" from the edge of the first stud. I'm pretty sure that the 2nd stud should be 15 1/4" to the edge (and 16" to the center).
  4. At about 2 mins into your video where you are zoomed into where the partition wall joins the main wall, I see that it is framed with a 2x6 on either side of the 2x4 block to attach the partition wall. Do you know if there is a way to change that approach? I'm dealing with 2x4s throughout and rather than taking three studs to create that support I'm planning to just use two fastened together. Partly because I'm running into spacing issues in my wall.

Thanks again for the help. I agree with your commentary in the video that it is probably unnecessary to go into this level of framing detail if you are building something out and know how you are going to build it out. In my case, I don't have a lot of space to work with and was looking for a way to envision how my math was working out. Since the initial framing view was centered, I was worried I was doing something wrong. Glad to see that once I moved the reference that things fell into my layout almost perfectly.

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4 minutes ago, solver said:

 

Layer Display Options controls the visibility of things and there is one for each camera type.

 

 

 

That was easy enough. Thanks. I've spent plenty of time in display options toggling things but thought it was somewhere in my wall settings. I know it is probably frustrating to answer some of these questions but I sometimes can't see the forest for the trees or vice verse. Not to mention getting bogged down in actually doing the renovation.

 

Also, no need to comment on #4 for the partition blocking. I realized that I need to do it the default way otherwise I will run into issues.

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