Jo_Ann

Yes, it is possible. You just need a lot of practice learning how to use Pro and manual roof tools. And don't assume an entire ceiling within a room is 10', when some of it might be partially sloped, and then become a 10' flat ceiling (this can affect the way the roof sits). The floor plan drawings don't really reveal everything. Practice Obi Wan, practice...(and the reference manual).

Although the directions in that tutorial are the same as in the Home Designer Knowledge base, you should NOT be looking at Chief Premier tutorials. You have a Home Designer product, so you should only be looking at tutorials for Home Designer. Even so, I gave you the answer about what needs to change.

You said salt box roof on the 2nd floor. Is this what you want? I think this has a lot to do with the "in from baseline" setting on the 1st floor hip wall's upper/lower pitch , and also the placement of the 2nd floor knee wall. In this pic, the knee wall is 5' in height.

Then your "alcove" is really a porch (room).

??? I don't see a 2nd floor .

Even if the alcove is not set as a room, I get this result by setting the minimum alcove size larger that the alcove width. I have no idea what you did to get that result.

You simply type in a reply on the existing post, and it will show in the forum. No need to start a whole new post.

For a one time use, Pro is expensive and has a high learning curve, and most of the time manual roof tools are not needed. Suite is too limited in what it can do. An upgrade to Architectural would probably work well for you. Uploading the plan file usually gets the best answers for problems, and people on the forum who try to help, are just users, like yourself.

Not enough info...Not enough info...Not enough info... And you still haven't filled out your signature.

Don't know what you did. but you should be able to select it with the rainbow tool. Open the wall, and check to see what material is being used for the top of the pony wall. Most shower glass walls do not extend to the ceiling or over the door. The pony wall will extend to the ceiling. Is that what you want?

Don't know what your pic is supposed to be showing. You need to explain more clearly what you are trying to do, and what the end result is supposed to be.

I don't even understand why DJP would post a video for you to watch, that only shows manual roof planes being used. You said you have Suite, which does not have manual roof planes. You could have looked in the Knowledge Base for "Gambrel Roof". The 1st thing you need to do, is open the roof icon and change the eave overhang to at least 2". (1/4" is not acceptable). In your posted plan, only the 2 hip walls on floor 1 need to change. On the roof tab of the wall, the 1st pitch is set to 20". The upper pitch should be set to 6". If you want a totally flat ceiling on floor 2, the "in from baseline" should be set to 64". And as Solver asked, please delete your thread in Tips & Techniques.

Open the room and check the box "use soffit surface for ceiling". Open the railing and uncheck "post to ceiling". Add your own posts using either a soffit, or a box shape from the library. Place them, then resize them. And like solver has asked, please add your signature.

Sounds like you need to do some reading in your reference manual and the software website Knowledge Base. Read about railing walls.

Use a pony wall. It's up to you to do your homework and read up in the "help" documentation about pony walls.

Try searching the forum for info about reducing the file size for uploading to the forum.

Most likely, when you drew the new walls on the 2nd floor, you did not draw over the existing attic wall. Therefore, it is still an attic wall, and is set as having a "no room definition".

Or...3D letters using the custom backsplash.

Read this help article posted on Chieftalk. You have the same cabinet settings in Pro, and it will produce a much more realistic render. https://www.chiefarchitect.com/support/article/KB-03142/replacing-a-cabinet-s-standard-shelves-with-rollout-shelves-or-drawers.html Study ALL the shelf settings to manipulate the results.

Did you read my post? I gave you the answer.

It's because you probably used an "auto dormer". You need to add a smaller, complete room (with a normal height ceiling) connected to the front exterior wall.

Poor design, but the only way I think might work. Align the front of the hanging cabinet, with the right side of the wall cabinet. Then move the hanging cabinet all the way out to the end of the peninsula, to allow clearance for the door swing of the wall cabinet. Repeat the same crown molding all the way across both cabinets, to make them look unified.

When you watch any of the help files, you need to pay attention to whether it applies to your software. Some of them only relate to Pro.

Your 1st photo shows that you have Architectural, not Pro. You do not have manual roof control. You need to use the correct exterior wall type, or maybe you just need to reverse the layers of the existing wall.

This was done with "auto rebuild roof".