Jo_Ann

Just for fun, here's another idea.

Elovia, I thought about that, but couldn't figure out how to manage it without compromising spaciousness (due to the headroom issues for the stairs and shower). The original bath also takes advantage of the sloped ceiling, to create a bigger space. Moving the kitchen (pic #1) under the bath, works....but the living space downstairs suffers, and becomes an uncomfortable pass-through between the front and back doors. Moving the bath instead, seems to work better (pic #2). Although the bath now sucks up the 90" ceiling area upstairs, it still seems to leave enough 90" ceiling area in the bedroom. If Perkins47 opts to not close off the stairwell, the bedroom would feel even bigger, especially if windows (overlooking the back yard) were added.

Here are some ideas for the tiny house. Raise the 2nd floor walls by 24" (as Eric suggested?), but raise the back wall an additional 66" (lower roof pitch on that wall). This solves headroom problems for the stairs and the shower, and makes the 2nd floor SO much more functional. Close off the 2nd floor? I can't really see the point for that in such a small footprint (especially if you want the 2nd floor to be readily usable at all times). But, if desired closed, I would put a pocket door at the 2nd landing, thereby leaving a more open feeling to the 1st floor room. The stairs have about an 8" rise, and a 9" tread . My own basement stairs have this rise/tread, and they are not uncomfortable to use. Tiny appliances and fixtures? You want a tiny HOUSE, otherwise just buy a camper and park it on the property. Use an apartment size range, fridge. I would use a full size double bowl sink in the kitchen area, and a minimal sink/vanity in the bathroom. Please keep the bathroom upstairs. Sounds,odors,and line-of-sight to the toilet in the livingroom/kitchen area (a tight space) would not be a very desirable experience! With this type of layout, I think you can kick back on the sofa to watch tv, without feeling claustrophobic.

Thanks for the jpg footprint, Kbird. This what I would think the roof would look like.

The house pic in post #22, has a room extended to the right of the porch roof, which the porch roof abuts to. That is why my pic (post #25) shows that room. That room creates a problem with the porch's shed roof.

The completed house does not look like the pic in post #22.

Here is a basic plan. Not knowing what your own settings are (dimensions, ceiling heights, roof pitches), you will most likely need to play with a lot of your settings to get it to work. The 'L' room on the right creates a problem for the porch roof. A workaround is shown. I hope this plan opens in HDA16 the same way it looks in HDA10. Sometimes they don't. At least it should give you a starting point, and some ideas. HDA2015 will not open a HDA 2016 file, so I couldn't see what your settings are. porch roof.plan

So sorry to hear about the heart attacks! Rest up and get better! You should stroll on over to the chieftalk website and see what they have to say about windows10!

I agree with what Eric said, BUT...viewing sample plans can be very helpful (to see how they did something). Also, I've noticed that many of the samples have errors, perhaps on purpose, to motivate the user to learn how to fix them? The trial download of HD2015 runs fine on my XP, but the trial HD2016 won't even launch. If you are wanting to upgrade to HD2015, I think you might find it on Amazon.

However....If you study the different templates offered when opening a new plan, you will find that some of the wall cabinets have a crown molding on them. Some of the base cabinets have a molded edge on the countertop, too. If you already have your plan done using the default template, open a new plan (template with crown molding) and tile it vertically alongside your existing plan. Place a cabinet in that new plan. Copy/paste that cabinet (with the crown molding) into your existing plan.

Is this what you want the porch roof to look like? I noticed that you have a floor under the extended 'portico'. I thought you only wanted to extend the roof?

Look in the 'templates' folder. There is more stuff in there.

If this is an existing house, post a good pic of the front. Also post a pic of what progress you have made in HDA. So MANY variables, need to see what is going on with your own example, in order to explain a plan of attack.

So I had to experiment with this porch on a single story. It took a lot of finagling.

You can extend the 'portico' out as far as you want to. When you uncheck 'ceiling over this room', be sure to check 'use soffit for ceiling', because this will clean up the ceiling. Also, if you want to leave auto roof on, (and not delete the room), specify the room as 'open below'. That will get rid of the unwanted floor.

Describe in more detail, what is not working? Or post the plan so we can see what is going on (or not going on !) .

Is it the gable extension that you are referring to? I built an extended invisible walled room, with 'no ceiling over this room' to get the roof extention. Then I turned off 'auto build roof' and deleted the 'room'.

I wasn't sure what you meant either, so I replicated the pic you showed, with no problems. At least this shows that it can be done in HDA 16 ( or probably any title or version). As Kbird suggested, a wall break was used for the small porch gable over the stairs.

#1. Just because the walls appear to be connected, doesn't mean that they really are. Pull all walls back and let them 're-snap'. #2. You have to uncheck 'flatten terrain' if you want it to slope. #3. What I see in your pic, is a window 'well' and a door and stair 'well'. Create the wells as explained in the kb article, and then add the stairs. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00862/creating-a-window-well-for-an-egress.html

This older post might help. https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/538-stair-with-landing-and-solid-rail/?hl=%2Bstair+%2Brailing

I think you are out of options (other than the 'no ceiling over this room' option). Only HD Pro has the ceiling plane tool. I think only HDA and Pro have the sloped soffit option. A wedge shape from the library could give you the ceiling plane, but...it will stick out above your roof!

Is this what you want the foundation to look like?

First make sure you are using a masonry wall type (brick-6?). Open the window dialog box, and choose double hung or double hopper type window. Set the 'movable size' to maybe 24"? Open the casing tab, and set to 0" (delete the D, too), both interior and exterior. If you have lites showing, move to the lites tab and remove them. On the materials tab, change the interior trim and exterior trim, to whatever you have showing on the interior and exterior walls. If you are using a double hopper type window, you might want to alter the middle sash (in the sash tab)

Keith...you are entertaining! Broken walls: I opened a plan (made in HDA 10) in HDA 15, and it showed a broken wall? In HDA 10, it didn't. But, (in HDA 10) I pulled the offending wall back, and let it re-snap. When I re-opened the plan in HDA 15, the broken wall was gone. Weird oddity when opening an older plan in a newer software version. Also, I had problems with base molding showing up where it shouldn't have (not in HDA 10, but showed in HDA 15)!! I see in your pic that you fixed the overhanging bathroom wall. I was also wondering why the stairway areas (east stairwell, west stairwell) are not the same size? It seems like they should be identical? The range! In the pic you posted, I can see the countertop showing under the burners! I have the same slide-in stove in my HDA 10 library, but I never tried using it. So, I did put it in a cabinet, and guess what? The countertop showed under the burners!!! I think this might be an HD booboo. The only way I could fix it, was to delete the countertop from that cabinet, and wrap a custom countertop around the stove top.