Jo_Ann

Begin with your user guide. Look for helpful tips in the knowledge base articles. Set defaults, and draw exterior walls. If the garage is attached, draw the interior wall that separates it from the house, and designate it as the garage. Get the roof structure correct. Build the foundation. Build the terrain. The terrain elevation is set according to the house, NOT the reverse (floor 1 should always be set as '0'). Learn how to manipulate the terrain to expose all or part of the daylight basement that needs to show. These rules and sequences need to be followed, or you will be frustrated somewhere further down the road! Newbies are all too anxious to draw interior walls and start decorating. BIG mistake!

According to the knowledge base article, only Pro allows this feature. Save yourself all the hassle, and just add the microwave to a 2nd base cabinet (toe kick deleted) placed above the oven cabinet.

Open each and every room dbx on floor 1, and put a check in the default box for floor structure(L). Some of the rooms are already checked, and those are the rooms already showing the framing. The next step (of course) is to open the build framing dialog, and put a check in the 'build floor framing' box.

OR... You could draw in an independent room, using the railing wall (make it an 'unspecified' room type), to represent the landing. Set to the right height, this room will automatically show the door swing.

You really should have a landing there. But despite that, there is no option to 'move to the front of group' for doors. It would just be easier to draw in the door swing with cad lines, to represent the door.

Not showing up in the downloaded plan. But I think that if you slightly pull back the edge of the 1st floor roof plane, the problem will go away.

Here's another try at this. Open the room spec box for the entry/hall room. Uncheck 'monolithic slab foundation'. This makes some of the concrete to the left of the step (in the living room) disappear. The concrete showing above the step is appearing because the wall is invisible. Make the wall solid and the concrete is gone. Now is the time to put a doorway there. Next: Open the entry/hall dbx again and look at the floor structure(L). Now open the room dbx for the right front bedroom, and compare the floor structure (L) there. This is why the front door looks to be at a higher elevation than the front room.

Why oh why would you delete your foundation slab? The house has to have a foundation. Rebuild the foundation. Look in the living room and you will see a large slab has appeared. Go back to level 0, and turn on the reference display (so that you can see which part of the slab is showing in the LR). I don't know if this is the correct way to do this, but....select that small slab portion and delete it. Check the living room to see if the concrete is gone. Of course the foundation is going to show outside the front door. What did you expect? Create the terrain perimeter and the put in a porch slab or step in front of the door. Like DCortes said, use a doorway instead of an invisible wall, at the entry to the LR.

The trial version I am using is HD Pro 17, and I fixed this using YOUR plan, just like I said. Did you change anything after you posted the plan? You can always re-download the plan that you posted, and see if there is a difference.

Easy. One horizontal soffit, one vertical soffit. Two sloped soffits One cylinder shape (rounded bottom of vertical soffit). Build it in place at one of the gables. Hold down control and select each piece (easiest to do in 3d view), and block it. Select/copy/paste the block for the other gables.

HD trial versions do not allow anything to be saved, so I can't post the fixed plan. The best I can do, is to show these pics of the plan you posted, showing the problem foundation wall (gap).

I think the soffit method is simpler and quicker to use, especially if the tile doesn't extend to the ceiling. A chair rail (sized smaller and thinner) above the tile, finishes it off nicely. The more attention you pay to details, the better the result you will get.

I did the steps I indicated on the plan you submitted, without changing any of your existing settings. If your garage door is not cutting the concrete, then the foundation wall must still not be aligned. Do a doll house view and zoom in on the floor area at the garage door (inside). If there is no concrete wall beneath the exterior level 1 wall, then the garage door will only build within the exterior 1st floor wall (because there is no concrete below to build into). In your plan, it looks like there are a lot of your foundation walls that are not properly aligned.

Like LawB10 said, you need to realign the front foundation wall of the garage. Drop to level 0, turn on 'reference floor' display. Zoom in and drag that front foundation wall as close to align with wall above as you can get. Then right click and select 'align with wall above' to let the software make an exact alignment. Back on level 1, open the garage door dbx, and click 'ok'. Like magic, the garage door will now cut into the concrete as expected.

The deck did not display, because the exterior house wall it connected to....was set as having 'no room definition'. Attic walls are set that way.

Grab the end of the corrected attic wall, and drag it over the remaining attic wall. This will give you a straight wall with no jog. I think the issue occurs when a roof overhang (unseen roof overhang) cuts into another exterior wall.

I think it almost always involves an incorrect wall placement. You just need to start moving walls around until you hit on the one causing the problem.

When opened with Pro, the attic wall shows with siding. When opened with Architectural, the siding is missing. On that attic wall missing the siding, do a careful, slight, control /drag back towards the house, until the siding appears.

If you are thinking of striated or scalloped shaped siding, look in the library materials under roofing / shakes and shingles.

1. As DJP said, draw foundation walls on level 0, below the porch walls. 2. I suspect you 'deleted' the rails by selecting 'no rail' on the railing tab of the wall. Instead, make the wall invisible. 3. Draw a slab in front of the porch, same height as the porch, but sized to look like a stair tread. Then place the stairs in front of it You will also need to extend the slab down to meet the ground..

Use an isometric wedge (on end) from the library (shapes / wedges), carefully sized and made thin, to cover the exterior siding that is showing because of the vaulted ceiling. For the stairs...draw an interior wall parallel to the stairs, then carefully ctrl / drag it into and slightly beneath the right side stair wall.

Just be sure that you are using the 'break line' tool....NOT the 'break wall' tool. https://www.homedesignersoftware.com/support/article/KB-00983/creating-a-custom-shaped-countertop.html

A custom countertop is easy to use as an enclosure, BUT...it has to be shaped around the outside of the tub! The tub on the left is done this way. The tub on the right uses the same countertop, but with cabinet panels inserted into the sides. A custom countertop (with water material) is shaped to fit inside the tub.

Sloped soffits can also be your friend. https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/index.php?/topic/1993-changing-interior-stair-railings-to-panels/

Another way to add a rail is with a soffit, (sized to mimic a rail), and with countertop cove molding added to it. Then carefully placed into the cabinet door, at the height you prefer.