solver

When you reference a video, it helps to provide a link.

Think about the instructions you are giving the program.

See if this gives you an idea.

Using the Foundation Wall tool, draw the footers on the foundation level.

Home Designer does not have the settings to directly change the roof structure to do what you want.

If it's important, you could hire someone (not me) with Chief to create the roof structure. They would not need to draw anything, just set roof defaults.

What's the problem?

Attaching a picture (screen capture) often helps.

Please see this thread for some tips: https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/8582-getting-started-with-hometalk/

Only the parametric doors will automatically conform to an arch. Doors from the library will not change shape.

21 minutes ago, JoAndo said:

Then in 3D view you'd be able to "swing" it around using the rotating arrow above the selected object.

Helpful to have an image of the chimney shape. Probably better ways to model than using a backsplash.

I'm sure you know, Chief Architect has two product lines, Home Designer and Chief Architect. Chief has many features to manage remodeling projects, and many other capabilities that Home Designer lacks. It also cost far more.

I can imagine some convoluted ways to do things, like having 2 plans, one for existing where you can change line color and style, labels and other things. Send this plan to layout as an overlay (or underlay) to your remodel plan.

You could also relabel that items. Some will add (e) or (n) for example to the label.

For ease of use, your solution seems workable and probably easiest.

Welcome to HomeTalk @VisionNet

Please start here: https://hometalk.chiefarchitect.com/topic/8582-getting-started-with-hometalk/

14 hours ago, VisionNet said:

But the take-off tool just sees all of them as "new"

It's helpful to use the same terms used in the software, and it's often helpful to include an image or 2 so we see what you see. I'm guessing "take-off tool" is the materials list.

Attaching a simple plan file -- in this case one with two light fixtures tagged new and existing will keep someone from having to duplicate (guessing) at what you are doing.

@CrossFireDesign

A couple of tips.

1) Start a new thread when you have a question. 

2) Attach your plan file after closing Pro. Zip if needed. Helps prevent a bunch of back and fourth, or someone like me having to enumerate (guess) at all the possibilities.

3) Pay attention to your settings.

Here you have set the OSB to be framing and lumber. 

And you should have auto rebuild framing on -- framing settings are not dynamic.

You have a bunch of things going on so I'll give you a couple of pointers.

I don't see where you said, but I'll assume you are using manual roof planes.

If you lower the ceiling height in that central space, some of your wall problems might go away. What you should do when drawing manual roof planes is to set the ceiling height correctly, then draw the roof. The roof will then be in the correct position. Video on my YouTube channel (link in my signature) about making settings correct than drawing the roof.

You also have the option to build a 2nd floor over the 2 outside spaces and set them to be Open Below. That can sometimes help, but it depends on where you are going with the model.

The program isn't smart enough to always fill in exterior wall gaps. It wants a wall below to know what to build above. Often you need to draw in your own walls and make settings in them to tell the program what to do.

Read about Roof Cuts Wall at Bottom, and Lower Wall Type When Split by Butting Roof. You usually want to select one or the other.

Pictures are good, attaching your plan file (close Pro first) will help someone provide the best suggestions. When you do show multiple images, it helps to add your text that applies to the image by the image.

17 hours ago, solver said:

then drag the Room Divider across to the far wall

Did you do this too?

2 hours ago, Casey4965 said:

1. I need tile to wrap around a full height wall just above the pony wall that dies into it.

Custom Backsplash

2 hours ago, Casey4965 said:

2. The room divider will not separate the shower from the main bath.

Make the shower pony wall No Room Definition, then drag the Room Divider across to the far wall. For some reason, these two wall types do not always join as we want.

2 hours ago, Casey4965 said:

And I hope I have posted this correctly, with enough information.

Thanks -- you did. 

19 minutes ago, CrossFireDesign said:

but getting past it's automated functions seems almost as time consuming as using conventional CAD.

There is no rule saying you need to use all the automation. The program is designed to auto build common conditions and when you deviate, manual work is often required.

Your overhang would be trivial to do using the manual roof tools. They are one of the key features of Pro.

Did you set that room to Open Below and uncheck this.

Your porch wall is not aligned with the house wall.

Aligned

19 minutes ago, CrossFireDesign said:

I've tried it as a bump out which I do not need.

Don't get hung up on the phrase bump out -- that's what you have. You are just using invisible walls to define it.

Make the settings in the walls as Help instructs.

Did you review what Help says about Extended Slope Downward?

Something here might help.

Search the forum for spin.

Use a screen recorder to make a video.

Home Designer (Chief Architect) has some cloud options too I believe.

When you are looking at the block, you are really looking at an image that's wrapped around the surface. It's not a bunch of individual blocks.

For your top plate, make the walls a pony wall, with the upper wall 1-1/2" tall and only framing. You will need to adjust some settings, like the number of top plates.

6 hours ago, Robborito said:

I would save the window in your user library - then add a door to the wall you want - then reinsert the saved window at the appropriate floor level plan.

Cut the window, place door, Paste/Hold Position to put the window back.