solver

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Posts posted by solver

  1. All I did was draw in the porch -- just guessed at the dimensions, changed the end wall and porch end wall to gable and auto built the roof.

     

    I came close to getting the ridge on top of your wall. If you put in the actual dimensions for the porch, I bet the ridge moves to be correct.

    offset roof Eric.plan

  2. Have you seen the SHELDON DESIGNS Ct-103 Micro Cottage?

     

    16ft x 16ft with front porch.
    9ft x 9-1/2ft. bumpout 1 Bedroom with 1 full bath.
    56 sf of porches.  

    1st. Floor Area = 354 sf
    2nd, Floor Area = 170 sf
    Total Living Area = 524 sf

     

    It's the plan i thought of when you first described what you were wanting. A bit bigger, but you get a well thought out plan.

     

    They also have the Classic Micro Cabin Plan (Plan #C103) a 16x16 with full bath, tiny kitchen and loft.

  3. Looking at the plan, I would guess the ridge is centered between the wall on the left and the outside wall (row of post) on the right.

     

    With Pro, it's easy to draw in manual roofs.

  4. The problem is you cannot auto build your roof anymore.

     

    You will need to go back to where you can. I suspect resetting your ceiling heights on the second floor will do it.

     

    Once that is done, you should be able to turn auto build roofs back on, and the roof on the house will build correctly.

     

    Then add the pool house.

     

    Make a copy of your plan file to work in.

  5. One option for the rear facing would be to drop the floor in the master so you would step down maybe 2 steps. This would lower everything above as well.

     

    That 2nd floor has a 7'-6" ceiling and you would need to reduce the height of the floor structure as well, I think to come in under 21'.

  6. A second floor over the front seems blocked in by the roof, but one in back works much better.

     

    It will depend on how the grade is and where the 21' is measured, but something like this might work.

     

     

     

     

    post-171-0-20802100-1440447782_thumb.jpg

    post-171-0-91143200-1440447848_thumb.jpg

  7. This one shows a raised roof/ceiling over the living/kitchen area. Allows for taller windows to take in the view.

     

    Also bumped the wall out a bit just for looks.

     

    The columns are the Stacked Column from the library.

     

    post-171-0-35356400-1440381913_thumb.jpg

     

    Research Airplane Bungalow if you are interested in a small 2nd floor. These were often used for sleeping in the summer.

     

    post-171-0-60413500-1440382875_thumb.jpg

     

    post-171-0-33139000-1440382888_thumb.jpg

     

    Also suggest increasing the width of your halls to at least 42". This will make movement much more comfortable, and allow for wheelchair access if it's ever needed.

  8. Walls typically have a doubled top plate, so for a 2' wall, you need 2' for the bottom plate and 2' each for the 2 top plates, for a total of 6'.

  9. Google will answer your question about AFAIK.

     

    AFAIK = As Far As I Know

     

     

    If you have the plan on paper, you already have much of the work done. 

     

    Draw it with Pro, and you get the 3D automatically.

  10. Try drawing a new plan.

     

    Hovering over a dimension will change the pointer if it's a dimension associated with something you clicked on. I'm not sure about the dimension changing color -- it does not work that way here and we are using the same software.

  11. I wanted a profile to do the copper roof in the Brick/Stone window/door casing thread.

     

    I did a few of these when I had Chief, like a sill for a deeply recessed window, but was thinking I had done it in Pro.